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Some regulators have returns some don't. After reading what @diesel4me said it makes perfect sense to need one, especially with a carb. But then it also makes perfect sense to run a mechanical pump with a carb.
The problem is when the mechanical pump goes nutral (electrical pumps more or less do the same) is heat soak during that time.
The fuel line sits next to the headers/exhaust manifold and if dual exhaust the entire fuel line runs parallel to a hot exhaust pipe. The fuel gets real hot which changes the A/R ratio and now you have inconsistent fuel metering as temp changes.
The return line keeps fuel moving so there is no heat sink.
I fixed that without a return line by shielding the fuel line.
Yes, my block is one of the newer, post 86's that don't have a hole for the pushrod or even the bolt holes for the mech pump.
For a long time i was hung up on wanting to use a mechanical pump and nothing else. i even researched that there is, apparently, in the marine world a belt driven mechanical pump that bolts on to SBC's. You could also have the hole drilled----many machine shops have this program for their C+C(not sure if that is the right term?) machines. Also, there is a jig available to manually drill it.
But now that i got my electric pump setup sorted out(well, besides the possible pressure thing), to me running an elec pump is not a big deal. i wouldn't hesitate possibly switching to an in-tank or using one of the more common external pumps like the holley reds or carters. If i get an engine with the mechanical pump provision, i'd likely just continue using an electric pump.
UPDATE:
Nope----float was pretty much spot on----13/32" for the carb. It's 17084226.
However, i did notice that the clip thing for the needle was hooked into one of the holes in the float arm. i keep hearing you shouldn't do this. Can we discuss further why?