socal chevy
1/2 ton status
Id like to replace my fuel pump. Should I get stock or aftermarket? Any particular brand better than others? My engine is a 305, stock. Hows the install?
Thanks!
Thanks!
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Fuel Pump...
- Thread starter socal chevy
- Start date
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
Electric or mechanical?
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
good question.. I dont know. 
how do i find out?
how do i find out?
pauly383
Daddy383
Look on the passenger side of the engine , at the bottom in front of the motor mount , right on the side of the block . If you have a mechanical pump , its right there . If you are carbed , one hose should go from this to carb , two to the tank , big one fuel from tank , small one fuel return to tank 
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
You were logged in when you got that link, and I don't have your username and password, so it won't let me view the pic.
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
Its under Chevy pics at the bottom: http://community.webshots.com/user/socaltacoma
pauly383
Daddy383
This pic is it , if you aren't running mega horsepower etc , just get a replacement ifrom parts store , hell I would for 13.99 , buy one anyway and keep one as spare
http://thumb5.webshots.com/t/32/32/3/14/65/275631465JfFBWc_th.jpg
http://thumb5.webshots.com/t/32/32/3/14/65/275631465JfFBWc_th.jpg
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
so is it mechanical or electric?
pauly383
Daddy383
Mechanical , if it was electric it would be in tank or mounted remotely like on a frame rail . The pump you have is driven by a pushrod that runs off the motor . More than adequate for a stock 305 , its all I run , waste of money to upgrade a motor that will be replaced later , for what its worth it will probably be fine on a 350 in a truck anyway if you ever swapped out the 305 .
Can Can
Pusher Man
FWIW, I replaced my mechanical with an electric pump about 10 years ago after fighting with an on-going vapor lock problem. I noticed a small increase in high RPM power and have never vapor locked since the swap. I also like the fact that after the truck sits for a while, a turn of the key and a 5 second pause ensures that the carb is primed.
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
Ive tried looking online for a stock replacemnt. Can you point me in the right direction?... Do I need other parts for the replacement? Thanks!
big83chevy4x4
3/4 ton status
the only ones that i have seen that had a vent were marine pumps.
shouldn't need anything else, but it would be good measure to change the fuel filter, it should be in the carb inlet (if qjet)
any autoparts store will have one, you can order it online from autozone if you want also.
shouldn't need anything else, but it would be good measure to change the fuel filter, it should be in the carb inlet (if qjet)
any autoparts store will have one, you can order it online from autozone if you want also.
pauly383
Daddy383
Just drive to any auto parts store and buy one , and a gasket , cheaper than adding shipping to an online order . Then its just a matter of removing and replacing . Should be store stock for a 80's mechanical pump
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
The pump should be very easy to find. I think I got mine at Schucks for less then $15. I've got one on my 350 with a 4-barrel holley and never run out of fuel.
mine had 3 lines...
The 86 305 motor I put in my 79 C10 came from a G10 van,it had 3 lines on the fuel pump,probably because it had AC,and they are more prone to vapor lock,especially in a van--I just blocked the small return line off with a peice of hose and a bolt with clamps,since my truck had no return line(and my vapor canister is no longer there)---.
I prefer AC fuel pumps over other "cheapie" brands,but have used both-(airtex used to be decent too)-when I see an AC fuel pump on my 73 307 motor in my van thats ORIGINAL!--and the same with the one on the 305 in my truck,both have well over 100,000 miles on them and are still going strong--I havent seen many aftermarket ones last that long,and the prices arent that much higher for an AC pump...
The 86 305 motor I put in my 79 C10 came from a G10 van,it had 3 lines on the fuel pump,probably because it had AC,and they are more prone to vapor lock,especially in a van--I just blocked the small return line off with a peice of hose and a bolt with clamps,since my truck had no return line(and my vapor canister is no longer there)---.
I prefer AC fuel pumps over other "cheapie" brands,but have used both-(airtex used to be decent too)-when I see an AC fuel pump on my 73 307 motor in my van thats ORIGINAL!--and the same with the one on the 305 in my truck,both have well over 100,000 miles on them and are still going strong--I havent seen many aftermarket ones last that long,and the prices arent that much higher for an AC pump...
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
ha
I just replaced that fuel pump... It took me like 1 hour!!!! That F*cking rod is a little bitch, thanks giving me a heads up!! That was by no means easy either... that little pump is wedged in there!
I just replaced that fuel pump... It took me like 1 hour!!!! That F*cking rod is a little bitch, thanks giving me a heads up!! That was by no means easy either... that little pump is wedged in there!
the magic bolt...
Didnt anyone tell you the trick for holding the fuel pump pushrod out of the way??--before taking the pump off,you can remove the bolt in the front of the block that is in line with the pushrod,and screw in a longer bolt to hold the pushrod from sliding down(dont tighten the bolt too tight,just snug it down slightly,so you dont pooch the pushrod!)--then you can take the pump off and install the new one without fighting with the pushrod,or having to take off the plate under the fuel pump and use grease to hold the rod out of the way,or using feeler gauges or hacksaw blades to push the rod back where it belongs..
Oh,and dont forget to put the original bolt back in the hole before you start it up!(it will wreck the pushrod if you leave the long bolt in!!-and leak oil like a seive if you leave NO bolt in it!)...
Didnt anyone tell you the trick for holding the fuel pump pushrod out of the way??--before taking the pump off,you can remove the bolt in the front of the block that is in line with the pushrod,and screw in a longer bolt to hold the pushrod from sliding down(dont tighten the bolt too tight,just snug it down slightly,so you dont pooch the pushrod!)--then you can take the pump off and install the new one without fighting with the pushrod,or having to take off the plate under the fuel pump and use grease to hold the rod out of the way,or using feeler gauges or hacksaw blades to push the rod back where it belongs..
Oh,and dont forget to put the original bolt back in the hole before you start it up!(it will wreck the pushrod if you leave the long bolt in!!-and leak oil like a seive if you leave NO bolt in it!)...
socal chevy
1/2 ton status
diesel4me said:Didnt anyone tell you the trick for holding the fuel pump pushrod out of the way??--before taking the pump off,you can remove the bolt in the front of the block that is in line with the pushrod,and screw in a longer bolt to hold the pushrod from sliding down(dont tighten the bolt too tight,just snug it down slightly,so you dont pooch the pushrod!)--then you can take the pump off and install the new one without fighting with the pushrod,or having to take off the plate under the fuel pump and use grease to hold the rod out of the way,or using feeler gauges or hacksaw blades to push the rod back where it belongs..
Oh,and dont forget to put the original bolt back in the hole before you start it up!(it will wreck the pushrod if you leave the long bolt in!!-and leak oil like a seive if you leave NO bolt in it!)...
That information would have been very usefull BEFORE installing the pump..... Now I know.
