fuel supply with 500hp and dual tanks..

[ben427]

Putting a 538 hp 421 stroker in my 83 K20 sleeper. I would like to keep the factory dual tank setup but the ports on the selector valve are pretty small looking to handle the fuel requirements. Has anybody found a higher flow valve short of using brass 3 way valves? I'd prefer to use a factory style setup or even soenoid operated hydraulic valves if the seals will handle gas. Or will the factory valve handle it?

 

[Stomis]

I gotta ask why? Why not run a single saddle or even a blazer tank?

 

[ben427]

Because its more of a resto-mod. I want it as factory stock appearing as possible, with lots under the hood. I also like the added range of the dual tanks with the 12 mpg its probably going to get. Blazer tank will interfere with the trailer hitch.

 

[Stomis]

I think looking in marine or RV applications may help your search.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

What fuel system will be feeding the engine?

 

[ben427]

Well I was looking at a 130 gph holley mechanical pump, but was thinking that an electric would be better, I have an aeromotive A1000 setup here as well from an old project but that's likely overkill. I'm pretty much open to suggestions on the rest of the system from the tanks up. I wanted to run half inch line to keep restriction to a minimum, but maybe 3/8 is enough?

 

[folkenheath]

My recommendation is to not use a selector valve, no one makes one big enough. Either use dual pumps with check valves so you just switch the pump(and therefore the tank), or just use another pump as a transfer pump to transfer the fuel from the secondary to primary tank.

Another option if you aren't using a return valve is to use the selector valve but split the supply line so it uses both the supply and return sides of the valve just for the supply, I did that for a while with mine when I had the carb and it was working fine. If you get the aftermarket version the return will be 5/16" not 1/4". The area of a 1/2" ID hose is .2 sq in, the area of a 5/16" hose is .08, and a 3/8" hose is .11, so they are about equal to a 1/2" hose together.

 

[fabjunkie]

I've been fighting the selector valve on my truck and after having it out 3 times I'm pulling it for good in favor of marine style brass 3 way valves. I put a new AC Delco one in last time and it didn't even last 4 months. I'm also running diesel though so I don't know if that's what killed it. You can find the brass ones in 1/2". Only need one if not running a return. Here is a link for some or search on Amazon.

 

[ben427]

My recommendation is to not use a selector valve, no one makes one big enough. Either use dual pumps with check valves so you just switch the pump(and therefore the tank), or just use another pump as a transfer pump to transfer the fuel from the secondary to primary tank.

Another option if you aren't using a return valve is to use the selector valve but split the supply line so it uses both the supply and return sides of the valve just for the supply, I did that for a while with mine when I had the carb and it was working fine. If you get the aftermarket version the return will be 5/16" not 1/4". The area of a 1/2" ID hose is .2 sq in, the area of a 5/16" hose is .08, and a 3/8" hose is .11, so they are about equal to a 1/2" hose together.

I like that idea of the using the return and the feed, question is, does the return in the tank go below fuel level? I'm assuming it must if that works.

 

[folkenheath]

I like that idea of the using the return and the feed, question is, does the return in the tank go below fuel level? I'm assuming it must if that works.

No, I did not use the return as a pickip in the tank, the only pickup in the tank was the supply line. I simply split the supply line into two lines before the selector valve and back into one after.

However, if you wanted to take it to the next level you could pull the tanks and extend both return lines down to sump level, that could work. Just keep them close to each other, because if one sucks air then neither will pull fuel.