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full convertable Q's

should i convert or not??


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kyle.rj133

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well i have a 86 jimmy. i have been looking at the full convertable conversion and want to know peoples opinions on them. and how much work, problems, ect.
 
well i have all the parts i think. im just not sure what to do about the doors. i wasnt able to grap them
 
ok i might try fabing something up. not to many full convert around here. as anybody tried this?
 
Yeah, I did it in the fall on my 1986 M1009 CUCV Blazer. I did not have doors either so I cut the factory doors.

I basically followed the write-up posted above. I marked with masking tape and then cut a little long with a recip saw and then finished with a grinder.

I got the rubber plugs for the top of the vent window frame and the plastic caps for the the rear door cut from LMC. I fabbed some brackets to hold the rear window rail out of some flat 1/8th inch steel. It is pretty obvious how to brace the rail once you see it.

I used scraps from the cut off section of the original windshield frame to create "posts" that I welded inside the lower windshield frame holes that I then slid the new windshield frame onto. I used scraps from the cab to fill the holes at the B-pillars.

I had a buddy that used to work at a body shop helping me which made it go a lot smoother.

This is the only pic I have right now, it's not great but better than nothing:
cucv_full_conv.jpg
 
i guess im just worried about getting the window frame all lined up right. is that the hard part?
 
It's not terribly hard. spend some time with a tape measure once you get the front window out first. Take measurements in three or four places, and make doubly sure when you graft the full vert section on to not make those measurements tighter than they were...or getting the glass back in will be a metric pain in the ass!

I stuck some 3/4" OD tubing into the lower section as 'pegs' for the upper section to sit on. Fit was snug, which is good.

Body sag/flex can be an issue. Box tube sliders and/or a roll cage is a good idea to counteract that. I had both and still had issues, but the body on the Jimmy was such a patched together mess it's amazing the doors would close. The cowl/firewall is what ends up sagging, and on factory full convertible K5's they have rocker boxes under the floor. If I were to do it again I have a much better idea of what to do to fix that issue...

Rene
 
It's not terribly hard. spend some time with a tape measure once you get the front window out first. Take measurements in three or four places, and make doubly sure when you graft the full vert section on to not make those measurements tighter than they were...or getting the glass back in will be a metric pain in the ass!

I stuck some 3/4" OD tubing into the lower section as 'pegs' for the upper section to sit on. Fit was snug, which is good.

Body sag/flex can be an issue. Box tube sliders and/or a roll cage is a good idea to counteract that. I had both and still had issues, but the body on the Jimmy was such a patched together mess it's amazing the doors would close. The cowl/firewall is what ends up sagging, and on factory full convertible K5's they have rocker boxes under the floor. If I were to do it again I have a much better idea of what to do to fix that issue...

Rene

what would you do to fix that issue???
 
like rene says windsheild is not difficult if you make alot off mesurements.but you will have to do something about the flex ,or your doors may not open on occasions!
PICT0041-1.jpg
 

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