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Full Convertible Questions

Rugby_7

Rugby_7

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Hi, Long time lurker first time poster. First off this forum is great, I have gotten a lot of useful information from here. I have a couple question about doing a full convertible conversion. I know a roll cage will help strengthen the body and keep it from sagging once the support of the roof is removed. Would it be better to put a cage in then cut the roof or would I be ok with cutting the roof then putting in a cage? I ask because it would be a lot easier to fab up a cage with the roof off.
The second question I have is does anyone know the technical names for the parts needed for the doors? The local junk yard usually wants your first born child for payment. I would like to just get the windshield frame from them and see if I can order the rest.
Thank you!
 
i cut the roof , and used the fibre glass cab to line everything up. only made a rollbar a few years later. i pick up a complete tub, it was rusted almost to the door handles. all the parts were on it.
 
Thank you for the info! That is a clean Jimmy! In that time before you put the roll bar on did you have any problems with body movement?
How do you think this project would go without a top to do the lineup of the windshield? Would the stock door window frame be enough to line up the 73-75 window frame?
 
Rugby_7 said:
Hi, Long time lurker first time poster. First off this forum is great, I have gotten a lot of useful information from here. I have a couple question about doing a full convertible conversion. I know a roll cage will help strengthen the body and keep it from sagging once the support of the roof is removed. Would it be better to put a cage in then cut the roof or would I be ok with cutting the roof then putting in a cage? I ask because it would be a lot easier to fab up a cage with the roof off.
The second question I have is does anyone know the technical names for the parts needed for the doors? The local junk yard usually wants your first born child for payment. I would like to just get the windshield frame from them and see if I can order the rest.
Thank you!
Click to expand...

I've done the full vert thing. Experience is something you get after you need it. Having done it I would suggest bracing the door opening. A good bar of some sort between the A pillar and the B pillar at door handle height. If not the cowl and A pillar will sag.

One thing I did right was stake the windshield frame using 3/4" OD tubing about 6" long. I also measured the inside windshield opening in a few key places before making my first cut. Having the 3/4" tubing inside the frame staked it in position very nicely, plus it provided backing for the welding.

I did have my rockers replaced with 3 x 3 box tubing, but the cowl/"A" pillar was still moving a lot more than I would have liked. I also had issues with the bedsides spreading, eventually I sucked them in and welded them to the roll cage. :whistle:

springinstall013.jpg~original
 
pretty sure you can use the door to line up. make sure your door gaps are ok. what made me install a rollbar was that ,if i parked on a uneven surface. doors would rub and sometime not open. i didn,t want a rollbar so i welded a 1/4 inch rocker plate . that didn,t really help. since i made the rollbar it still moves but was never a problem.
 
The final iteration before I parted it...

IMG_0032.jpg


IMG_0034.jpg


IMG_0035.jpg


Blazer Bash 03

pritchett1.jpg


I do have a 90 Blazer now...a little more civilized, but not done.
 
So keeping a cage close to where the A pillar and where the B pillar were should help to keep it from flexing? Running tabs from the body to the cage will probably make it stronger than before with the cab. You guys have some great fab skills I hope mine turns out as good! I was just planning on getting a soft top for it so being able to line up with the doors will save some cash. Thank you for the help!
Any other helpful pointers that you might have ran into while doing the conversion?
 
The door parts are the bitch of it. I highly recommend trying to source the factory door parts rather than use the crap LMC sells. Upper door plug/cap, lower inside door brace, and lower door cap. The factory lower door cap piece is fiberglass and much better than the plastic piece of crap LMC sells. I also was not impressed with the aftermarket rubber seals for the hardtop to windshield frame. If you find a donor for the windshield frame, rape it for ever full vert related thing you can. Take the doors no matter how messed up/rusted/dented they might be. You will thank yourself later.
 
i think its trustyk5 who like he said, told me to use a piece of pipe. if i remember well i squeezed,a piece of pipe. so it would fit in the a pillar. it help alot to fit the windsheild frame. i had made a wooden template of the windsheild,before cutting. it was something simple 4 piece of wood. i believe 1x1 inch. everything went ok.
 
tRustyK5 said:
One thing I did right was stake the windshield frame using 3/4" OD tubing about 6" long. I also measured the inside windshield opening in a few key places before making my first cut. Having the 3/4" tubing inside the frame staked it in position very nicely, plus it provided backing for the welding.
Click to expand...

This is good advice -- measure the windshield repeatedly. Repeatedly. I slightly munged mine and the seal isn't fitting right for it.

The tube looks like this:

PC270010.JPG


That's the driver's side A pillar with the cowl behind it, windshield wiper to the right, for reference.

-- A
 
Thanks for the info guys I like the pipe idea, That should help out with keeping it straight. Ok Ill make sure to get the Original stuff, The place I go to has everything but since he has everything it is quite expensive. It is a fun place to go to, have to do a lot of searching through the brush but there is vehicles all the way back to the 50's there. I want to get this project done before the spring but the way the weather is usually here I have some time.
 
I sooooo want to chop the lid off of mine. :pimp:
 
Ive been in debate to chop mine. I have a '75 upper windshield frame in the garage. Just not quite sold on if its worth it yet. Trying to figure how many times I will/would actually roll full convertible if I did. Weather in TN is just not that cooperative. I have the parts...I'll just hang on to the windshield frame for now.
 
I love mine. I did the tube trick in the pillar as well. I'm planning to go back and brace underneath, but I'm also going to put a roll bar of some sort in it. I don't want a full on cage like a rock buggy. Then I'm thinking of some kind of bikini top for sunny days!
 
Thanks on my color choice. It's the original 84 saddle and white combo. I'm trying to get all of my chrome and trim ordered to put it back together
 
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