PsychoticDeadGuy
1/2 ton status
I have heard of a full floater kit for the corp. 10 bolt but I cant remember the name of the company. Has anyone else heard of this? If so, could you tell me the place where I could find the kit?
CK5
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Full float 10 bolt?
- Thread starter PsychoticDeadGuy
- Start date
IIRC floater kits for 10 and 12 bolts had a nasty habit of always leaking at the axle seal, which may be one of the reasons you don't hear much about them anymore.
Besides the fact that for trucks, the kit probably cost more than getting a 14SF or FF, with little to none of the benefits of the larger axles.
Besides the fact that for trucks, the kit probably cost more than getting a 14SF or FF, with little to none of the benefits of the larger axles.
zcarczar
1/2 ton status
Someone here in So Cal, K10andy or something like that has a FF 12 bolt for sale. It used to be under ORD's Green Blazer, Wally, and it works great.
dirtwarrior17
Banned
dyeager535 said:
You could have a shaved, locked, and geared 14bff for the same price... why stick with 8.5" ring gears and 28 splines?
tuner-automotive
Registered Member
sorry to highjack but...............
Het jekbrown , Im not a member yet so I cant PM ya but Im in need of a hard top w/sliders for my 90GMC Jimmy.
Im in salem oregon and not far .
I have a hardtop w/o sliders, wanna trade.
Email me @ [email protected]
Everyone else, carry on, LOL.
Het jekbrown , Im not a member yet so I cant PM ya but Im in need of a hard top w/sliders for my 90GMC Jimmy.
Im in salem oregon and not far .
I have a hardtop w/o sliders, wanna trade.
Email me @ [email protected]
Everyone else, carry on, LOL.
Well, to play devils advocate to myself, a 10 bolt is much much lighter, and has much better ground clearance. (which is why I stuck with mine until it broke)
All that said, in these trucks, *for the most part*, a beefier axle makes sense, especially if thinking about going FF.
All that said, in these trucks, *for the most part*, a beefier axle makes sense, especially if thinking about going FF.
You can go 2 ways with a 10 bolt.
First is a C-clip eliminator kit (Summit Racing). The problem with them is you need to buy 2 kits and spare axles. Put the second kit on the spares so everything is swapable.
Or you can go with a rear disk brake conversion. the caliper will hold the axle in the housing if it breaks.
Otherwise......14 bolt.
First is a C-clip eliminator kit (Summit Racing). The problem with them is you need to buy 2 kits and spare axles. Put the second kit on the spares so everything is swapable.
Or you can go with a rear disk brake conversion. the caliper will hold the axle in the housing if it breaks.
Otherwise......14 bolt.
PsychoticDeadGuy
1/2 ton status
so disk brakes would allow me to get home if i broke an axle?
zcarczar
1/2 ton status
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
No, you would bend the caliper and caliper mount. I dont know why people say this, obviously they have never broken an axle because the axle slides out of the carrier and drops causing extremely bad camber, most likely bending the caliper mounts. While I havent tried it on my rear axle, I think there is enough movement in the caliper that would allow the axle to work its way out of the carrier.
I agree. Once the axle isn't supported at the carrier end, (breaks in the middle for instance) you aren't going far without much more damage happening. It will tear the axle tube up, wallow out the end of the axle tube (had a 12 bolt that was ruined from a broken axle destroying the seal area) and probably force it's way out eventually.
There was a post not that long ago where someones 14FF broke an axle, even without the tire working against it, the housing was destroyed IIRC. Much less likely in the 14FF, but in the case of the 10 bolt, the wheel is still attached to the axle no matter how you cut it, whereas the 14FF doesn't have that problem. You COULD pull the axle pieces out and keep going. (at least in FWD or locked in the rear)
There was a post not that long ago where someones 14FF broke an axle, even without the tire working against it, the housing was destroyed IIRC. Much less likely in the 14FF, but in the case of the 10 bolt, the wheel is still attached to the axle no matter how you cut it, whereas the 14FF doesn't have that problem. You COULD pull the axle pieces out and keep going. (at least in FWD or locked in the rear)
Rear disc brakes on a semi-floating axle will usually let you limp off the trail if you break an axle shaft..........but it's not really practical to drive on the road this way unless you limp along for a very short distance.
I've witnessed this happen on Jeeps with rear D35's a couple of times and the disc brakes have kept the the wheel assembly from walking out of the housing. They took it really easy and we were able to get them off the trail. I've never seen it break or bend the brackets, but I have seen it wear a groove in the caliper from the rotor wobbling around, which then needed replaced. The rear brakes are also affected because the wobbling rotor continuously pushes the caliper apart and therefore you might need to pump the brakes a few times when you apply it.
Of course, I don't know why in the world anybody who goes wheelin' with a rear 10-bolt, D35, etc... would not carry a spare axle shaft (most of the guys I know who wheel regularly carry spares).
I've witnessed this happen on Jeeps with rear D35's a couple of times and the disc brakes have kept the the wheel assembly from walking out of the housing. They took it really easy and we were able to get them off the trail. I've never seen it break or bend the brackets, but I have seen it wear a groove in the caliper from the rotor wobbling around, which then needed replaced. The rear brakes are also affected because the wobbling rotor continuously pushes the caliper apart and therefore you might need to pump the brakes a few times when you apply it.
Of course, I don't know why in the world anybody who goes wheelin' with a rear 10-bolt, D35, etc... would not carry a spare axle shaft (most of the guys I know who wheel regularly carry spares).
