full time

[bone cracker]

any problems with leaving the fulltime hubs in after swapping a 203 for a 205. is putting in manual hubs a simple swap or is there other parts required besides the hubs themselves. thanks in advance.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

If you want selectable hubs, the only thing you need are the lockouts.

And its fine if you want to keep your full time hubs, the front end components will wear faster but full time hubs are stronger than part time ones.

 

[dremu]

any problems with leaving the fulltime hubs in after swapping a 203 for a 205. is putting in manual hubs a simple swap or is there other parts required besides the hubs themselves. thanks in advance.

The manual slugs are prolly stronger, but as mentioned you have more wear, plus, in my experience, you get better turning radius with the fronts unlocked.

Depending on axle -- D44/10b? D60? -- selectable hubs are cheap (~$80 for the D44/10b ones, last I checked) and yup, just drop in place of the slugs.

-- A

 

[sweetk30]

203 full time slugs are one thing. you need the conversion kits for the auto locking hubs some times. not the 203 drive slug stuff. so if you want hubs just swap them in.

 

[CDA 455]

any problems with leaving the fulltime hubs in after swapping a 203 for a 205. is putting in manual hubs a simple swap or is there other parts required besides the hubs themselves. thanks in advance.

On a side note:

If you have a fulltime setup (flange,pucks, etc) with an ARB or open diff., will wear not be a factor if T-case is not engaged (is in 2H)?

If there is a spool or Detroit Locker, I can see the issue. But if the diff. is open, wear shouldn't be a factor.

 

[pvfjr]

Well I think they're talking wear as in the front driveshaft and axleshafts always spinning, constantly working all the u-joints, etc. It's not any more wear than he was getting when his truck was full time anyway. Now if he had a locker or a spool, then you're right. That would be a lot more wear, on everything, to include the tires. I would definitely put in selectable hubs if I had a locker in the front, no question.

My truck used to be full time, and the biggest difference I noticed is the truck just seemed to roll easier. I was surprised, but there's a little drag turning that front end over all the time, and I could feel the difference. Between the truck rolling more freely, and getting rid of my slushbox, street driving improved a LOT in that truck.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

On a side note:

If you have a fulltime setup (flange,pucks, etc) with an ARB or open diff., will wear not be a factor if T-case is not engaged (is in 2H)?

If there is a spool or Detroit Locker, I can see the issue. But if the diff. is open, wear shouldn't be a factor.

If you have drive flanges (full time hubs), everything in the front diff will be spinning as fast as the rear, regardless of what t-case is in it (and regardless of whether you're in 4WD or not).

If the there is no power input into a detroit, it won't lock (i.e. if you have your hubs locked in or are using drive flanges but the 2 case is in 2WD, the detroit will stay unlocked and you won't notice it).

If there is power going to a detroit, it will lock up whenever power is applied to it. DON'T USE A DETROIT IN THE FRONT OF A FULL TIME 4WD VEHICLE

I've driven mine on the road with front wheel drive only and its scary as hell.

An ARB or an open diff works fine in the front of a full time 4WD vehicle

 

[pvfjr]

I've driven mine on the road with front wheel drive only and its scary as hell.

So what's going on with your truck? I've driven mine in front wheel drive quite a few times, even at highway speeds. While locked is not as pleasant as unlocked, I've never experience anything scary. Let alone "scary as hell". I wonder what the difference is.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

So what's going on with your truck? I've driven mine in front wheel drive quite a few times, even at highway speeds. While locked is not as pleasant as unlocked, I've never experience anything scary. Let alone "scary as hell". I wonder what the difference is.

I'm guessing you don't have a detroit in the front

I killed the rear driveshaft (no spare ) on a trail about 70 miles from home. I decided to try and drive it back with front wheel drive only (I have a detroit in the front).

Any time anything changed with throttle input the front end would try and rip the steering wheel out of your hands. You would have to get on or off the throttle REALLY slow (seriously, as slow as you possibly could) or you would instantly be steering some other direction. I think top speed on the drive back was ~50 mph and it wasn't too fun.

 

[pvfjr]

I've got a lockright, same thing except it's drop in style. The internals and operation are basically the same as the detroit I have in the rear. I've got hydro though, maybe that's the difference. I drove around town for about a week with no rear driveshaft a couple months ago. I did feel the on/off throttle wandering feeling, but it wasn't really too bad. Hmm.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I've got a lockright, same thing except it's drop in style. The internals and operation are basically the same as the detroit I have in the rear. I've got hydro though, maybe that's the difference. I drove around town for about a week with no rear driveshaft a couple months ago. I did feel the on/off throttle wandering feeling, but it wasn't really too bad. Hmm.

I've got hydro assist too, so who knows. My first thought was maybe you had an auto but thats not the case.

Maybe it depends on how fast you go? I was driving through the mountains here (twisty with steep ascents)

 

[pvfjr]

Well I had it to 55 on straight stretches, 40-45 on curves. Hills I hit were no more than 4%, so nothing too steep. Maybe front wheel drive with a locker accentuates alignment issues or something. I definitely felt the pull though, but with the hydro I've got, it wasn't jerking the wheel around by any means. I only really felt it during hard on-off throttle transitions.