Full Top Convert Questions

[nvrenuf]

I'm thinking about cutting the top on my '91. I've done a lot of searching and found a lot of "I know what I'd do different next time" but no actual examples of strengthening the '76+ bodies.

What are some things that should be done?

Is attaching the cage to the "A" and "B" pillars enough?

Pillar tie ins plus body mounted sliders?

Some say build rocker boxes. I've never paid attention to rocker boxes before, what needs to be done?

 

[TREA18]

I'm not a rock crawler (although I would like to) therefore I'm not going to flex my truck a bunch. The main reason for not flexing is the modifications done for the wheelchair lift. The frame is modified and I don't want to break it. I put a cage in my truck that has some welds to the wind shield frame and to the B pillars and I can say that my truck is more solid since I cut my top than it was before.

In this picture you can see the cage attach to the passenger B, and you can't really tell but under the masking there is 2 thin pieces about 8 inches long attaching the windshield frame to the cage. Now that might not be a good idea but I haven't broke a windshield and the thin pieces may brake if it flexed and moved that much. I'm no expert on the windshield frame attaching to the cage maybe someone can fill us in more on this but I'm very comfortable with it in my application.

Edit: I guess you can see the driver and passenger in this photo.
The next to kind of show tubing running to the drivers B





I hope this helps and if you want better pictures I could take some.

Good Luck
I have know regrets.

 

[nvrenuf]

I hadn't thought about how the tie ins might effect the glass. Maybe doing it lower on the kick panel would be better?

 

[TREA18]

I hadn't thought about how the tie ins might effect the glass. Maybe doing it lower on the kick panel would be better?

I've never had an issue it just makes me think. If one moves opposite the other something might give. Like I said though it's just a thought I have no proof that this might happen. I'm sure someone understanding week points will know better. I've been driving my truck 4 years now with out an issue.

 

[rampage]

As you know, the original rocker boxes had the downfall of collecting mud/debris and rotting away. I thought about doing something similar but instead using 1.5" tubing. It'd bolt to the first two body mounts under the cab using 1/4" plate and have a couple bends that follow the outside of the firewall. That would then bolt to a plate on the firewall on the inside of the cab. I never looked into this far enough to check for clearance on the inside or outside of the firewall. Maybe you'd be motivated enough to look into this, and if it's possible it seems like something simple enough for one of our vendors to produce.

 

[nvrenuf]

I like rampage's idea.

Anybody else got anything?

 

[bp71k5]

Mines not a 75+ but I cut out my un-rusted rocker boxes and replaced them with a combination of 2x4 steel tube and tied into the cage at the firewall near the b pillar area of the floor.

When the rocker was cut out, the doors and body moved around a lot. Once it was tied back in, it's more solid than it was with the rockers. I would recommend doing something to reinforce the body if you do it.

 

[blazinzuk]

My plan is too cut the stock rockers out weld in some 2x6 or 2x4 rec tube in place of the stock rockers then take some .120 wall square tube about 6" long cut it into diagonal peicec and run those along the floor attaching them to the outer slider. I may go longer on those but that should stiffen up the area asnmuch as the stock rocker boxes

 

[blazer74]

My rocker boxes were shot on my 74. Rebuilt with square tube and have had no issue with strength.
You could do something like it before you cut the top

 

[blazer74]

And

 

[nvrenuf]

Bump for more reinforcing opinions + new question..

What about the bed rail once the top is cut off? Any reason I can use a piece off pick up bed rail to cap the hole that's left?

 

[jekquistk5]

Bump for more reinforcing opinions + new question..

What about the bed rail once the top is cut off? Any reason I can use a piece off pick up bed rail to cap the hole that's left?

I dont see a reason not too, as long as you did weld the plate in covering the hole.

Do you plan on just cutting and capping or actually converting using a pre 75 k5 windshield frame? Whats your plans for doors as well? Only reason is im about to go down this road soon.


On my current rig I didn't cut the B pillar off just the roof between the b and the a. I Welded the cage to the A and B, no real problems besides me messing up when installing the window. lol I also used 2x6 tube for the rockers braced to the frame, and tied to the cage. This was in a k20

 

[nvrenuf]

I'm still in the learning / parts gathering stage so I haven't made up my mind. I'm giving a lot of thought to just installing the windshield frame and doing a bikini top but it does rain here a TON so I may proceed with the intent of getting a soft top later.

As for the doors I'm going to cut mine so I can keep my power mirrors. Plans are to get the caps from LMC if I can't find used.

 

[jekquistk5]

I'm still in the learning / parts gathering stage so I haven't made up my mind. I'm giving a lot of thought to just installing the windshield frame and doing a bikini top but it does rain here a TON so I may proceed with the intent of getting a soft top later.

As for the doors I'm going to cut mine so I can keep my power mirrors. Plans are to get the caps from LMC if I can't find used.

So lmc does offer the tracks for the windows? If so thats great

 

[nvrenuf]

Uh oh, are the glass tracks different?

I know LMC offers the plastic caps to close off the door window frame openings. I saw there's a bracket inside the door that the cap screws to but figured that could be made.

 

[jekquistk5]

Could you post part numbers when you get them? It would help me as well.

 

[nvrenuf]

Will do

 

[TREA18]

I didn't do anything different with my window track. Just cut the frame and put the cap on, and the windows still slow.


Oh yea there's a rubber piece that fills the cut at the A pillar that helps hold the window solid when up.

 

[wasted wages]

80' Jimmy.... cut the roof off / capped the bed rails / 2" x 4" x 1/4" sliders tied to the cab supports and the floor with 1 1/2 angle and flat plate ( sandwiched )
rear cage was a gimme with the truck from the PO..... going to cap the windshield with 16 gauge and build a new front cage and tie it all together....

oh,,, and ORD tube doors FTW....

 

[TREA18]

I'm still in the learning / parts gathering stage so I haven't made up my mind. I'm giving a lot of thought to just installing the windshield frame and doing a bikini top but it does rain here a TON so I may proceed with the intent of getting a soft top later.

As for the doors I'm going to cut mine so I can keep my power mirrors. Plans are to get the caps from LMC if I can't find used.

I also bought the soft topper and they have a bar with snaps that you attach to the windshield frame, so you could get by with just capping your cuts and use your existing frame. Anyone else have anything to add to this idea. I really don't see using my hardtop again, so this may have worked instead of shopping for a frame and hardtop..