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Fun Driver

Smurf is currently in my hands. Check its past record here: https://ck5.com/forums/builds/74-k5-build-smurf.112/
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I got some distilled water - I'm going to use that for now and in the meantime I need to decide what to do next. I was considering doing some reworks to the whole cooling system. That would involve:
- putting bigger radiator in the front
- redoing the plastic fan rudder as currently it's leaking lots of air
- adding extra fan at the front for transmission cooling
- wrapping and/or relocating transmission cooler lines so they are farther from exhaust pipe

My temperatures as of now - after ~30min of city/highway driving are engine: ~208 F, transmission: ~180 F. I think they could be slightly lower with properly done cooling system.
 
ChrisAwesome said:
I got some distilled water - I'm going to use that for now and in the meantime I need to decide what to do next. I was considering doing some reworks to the whole cooling system. That would involve:
- putting bigger radiator in the front
- redoing the plastic fan rudder as currently it's leaking lots of air
- adding extra fan at the front for transmission cooling
- wrapping and/or relocating transmission cooler lines so they are farther from exhaust pipe

My temperatures as of now - after ~30min of city/highway driving are engine: ~208 F, transmission: ~180 F. I think they could be slightly lower with properly done cooling system.
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Those temperatures are not bad for tbi.
You don't need to change the radiator but we need to get the shroud closed on the bottom.
I have some time now on weekends and I know what we need to do so if you come to visit your friends up here we can coordinate some time to take care of those items
 
imiceman44 said:
I have some time now on weekends and I know what we need to do so if you come to visit your friends up here we can coordinate some time to take care of those items
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that sounds like good service after the sale :pimp1:

kudos to you!
 
Been very busy with life lately. I did manage, however, to grease both shafts (= 2 grease fittings total). Then I tried to grease the U-joints - they have grease fitting at the very center. Not much room to connect grease gun, I'm not sure how much grease I ended up pushing into it. Then I attempted to grease front suspension (found total of 4 grease fittings there) but it ended up with me cursing and grease gun pissing grease back at me through the metal connector at the end of the flex hose. Does it mean I should replace grease fittings at the front of the car or replace grease gun? I'm confused.

Grease gun that I use is called Performance Tool: Pistol Grip Grease GUn (Professional Quality), part #W54204. I think I got it at Autozone for ~$22

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Hey, I need to get 3rd row Tahoe seats in my car badly. It had original 1974 bench but I removed it. The way these seats are seated originally in Tahoe is shown here on the video:
Mounts are inside the floor so that way when seats are fully removed - floor is flat and one can sleep on it. I know that some Blazer owners bolt mounts on top of flat floor so they end up with these mounts sticking up. Do you know what's involved in replicating original Tahoe floor? Any ideas?

3rd-row-tahoe-seats.jpg

original-seat-mounts.jpg

floor2.JPG

floor1.JPG
 
ChrisAwesome said:
Hey, I need to get 3rd row Tahoe seats in my car badly. It had original 1974 bench but I removed it. The way these seats are seated originally in Tahoe is shown here on the video:
Mounts are inside the floor so that way when seats are fully removed - floor is flat and one can sleep on it. I know that some Blazer owners bolt mounts on top of flat floor so they end up with these mounts sticking up. Do you know what's involved in replicating original Tahoe floor? Any ideas?

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If you want to do it like the original it can be done, it's just a lot more work.
You can find a donor to cut the floor and make it easier but it still will be a lot of work.
That's why most people just put it on top.
 
Checking in, I drove about 400 miles in this car already. Everything is pretty good but today I got some incident. Was driving casually over residential area and engine started losing power. I was fighting with it for 2 blocks and then it died on me. I parked on the parking lot and called tow truck.

Under the hood I noticed leak from the PSC compressor breather, no idea what and why.

Currently car is starting, driving on 1st gear and reverse. Didn't have time to look at what's going on exactly. How do you suggest I approach the problem? Check air filter?

leak.jpeg
 
PSC is typically steering stuff, are you sure that's not a power steering reservoir? The filter looks like a breather for a p/s reservoir that's coincidentally bolted to the a/c compressor.

Edit: A/C systems are completely sealed.
 
ChrisAwesome said:
There is no AC on this car. The only compressor available is for onboard air. It might be power steering reservoir.
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:doah: you know, I stared at that York and it never occurred to me that was out of place.
 
that's just a PSC breather line, might have been overfilled or it's burping some air out.
 
It looks like it might be that larger section off the throttle body behind the clamps.
 
I replaced air filter, it was Spectre HPR 9831 and the thing @Scribbles pointed out is 9831 Inline Air Box. Old air filter was pretty dirty. Now, after changing the air filter - car drives but still something is off. It doesn't have all the power it used to have. As I was looking under the hood, I found a spare/disconnected tube. Is that reason of my problems? Did it come lose few days ago and screwed up my day? What do you think it is? That tube is on passenger side if that's not clear.

loose-tube.JPG
 
Looks to be the breather tube coming off the valve cover. That typically ties back into the intake to capture gasses vented from the engine through the PCV valve. It should not affect how the engine runs. You can tie it back in with a PCV valve or replace it with a breather.
 
Connected that hose to the intake - right before air filter. There's a fitting there, you can see on the picture.
I drove the car but it seems connecting that hose didn't change anything. Still feels like engine has less power. Also, it used to switch 1-2 at around 4000 RPM now it switches at 4500-4600. Could it be spark plugs / wires or coil? What's your bet?
Again, everything was fine till few days ago - engine started losing power and I had it towed as I didn't want to risk getting stranded on the highway.

On a side note - I checked the fluid level inside PSC reservoir and it's about half full.
 
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