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G outs.

jekquistk5

Weld nekid
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So I’ve had my first dune trip with the k5, everything seems to work very well. Getting airborn is fun and not harsh, but some of the g outs just hurt. I have rode in a few other linked rigs and they weren’t as harsh. Granted both had 8” of uptravel rather than the 5.5 I have. So what can I do to help make the g outs better?
 
Go faster or bypasses?



I don't have a real answer and have the same issue with my truck. I can hit the bumps leaving my driveway...
 
How much tuning have you done?

Time to start tuning. Is it the front or back?
 
Front, and zero tuning, just was looking for yah you are way to soft, or it’s just links. My ride height is perfect so my spring rate is good I would assume. I will not tune it until the cage goes in because why do things twice. It’s already so much better out of the box than any leaf spring rig I have owned.
 
This /\ and try moving the rate stops down to engage them sooner and it sounds like you need more high speed valving.. small OD shims so the last 2-3 in the stack. Any ideas on what the valving is now? Also should be at 200psi
 
What bump stops are you running?

Profender 3” air bumps

This /\ and try moving the rate stops down to engage them sooner and it sounds like you need more high speed valving.. small OD shims so the last 2-3 in the stack. Any ideas on what the valving is now? Also should be at 200psi

Valving is the standard 15/12 pyramid according to ads. Shocks have 200 psi, and bumps have 200 psi. The plan is to add more medium and high speed valving. Going up to .020 instead of .015
 
Profender 3” air bumps



Valving is the standard 15/12 pyramid according to ads. Shocks have 200 psi, and bumps have 200 psi. The plan is to add more medium and high speed valving. Going up to .020 instead of .015
Sounds like a solid plan!
 
The shocks should be slowed down during high speed motion so the bump stops are used as a last resort. If the coils hold the truck up, you should not need to replace them. Stiffer coils make rebound faster and that starts causing other issues. Are you running dual rate coils?
 
The shocks should be slowed down during high speed motion so the bump stops are used as a last resort. If the coils hold the truck up, you should not need to replace them. Stiffer coils make rebound faster and that starts causing other issues. Are you running dual rate coils?


Yes I'm running dual rates. 250/300 I think. I will have to check when I get home this weekend. I just don't want to change it too much, because the landings right now are perfect. Ie using the full 12" stroke of the shock.
 
Is it using all of the stroke including the full bump stroke on a jump like the one with adam? Is so, need to slow it way down. That jump should barely touch the bumps.
 
Is it using all of the stroke including the full bump stroke on a jump like the one with adam? Is so, need to slow it way down. That jump should barely touch the bumps.

No it didn't hit the bumps on that jump in the front. When I look at the video, the front probably used half the stroke. I want that to stay somewhat the same, I just want the g outs to be better.
 
What does each end weigh? And what is the unsprung weight at each end.

If you are not bottoming out on small jump landings, you might be as close as you are going to get without bypasses. Some g outs have to be avoided on just coil overs. It's called backing off the skinny pedal because the truck has limits.
 
What does each end weigh? And what is the unsprung weight at each end.

If you are not bottoming out on small jump landings, you might be as close as you are going to get without bypasses. Some g outs have to be avoided on just coil overs. It's called backing off the skinny pedal because the truck has limits.


I'll have to tell my wife I need bypasses then. I can back off until I can afford another 4 grand in shocks. First it gets some more valving, most likely PRP front and rear, full cage, and a paint job first.
 
Wades right, it’s harder even with the shorter travel, you can either have it comfortable or capable but not both without the bypass.. so stiffer valving on the compression will stop the bottoming but it will also make it more uncomfortable, it’ll unsettle the chassis easier etc through chop, id still try it to see if you are already at the diminishing returns point.. you should have roughly 90% use of the travel on jumps and the extra 10% of the travel should be for the oh sht moments..
 
All the air time I have gotten has been super easy landing on sand, and lets face it I haven't gone big because no cage. Over the whoops, i feel it could use more valving as well. I knew I would have to adjust valving, and I will. I may call ADS and get compression adjusters as well to give me even more flexibility.
 
It's hard to tune for both G-outs and bumps, one is a slow shock movement and one is a fast rapid fire one. I think my truck handles the g-outs awesome but could use some more help in the bumps. By-passes will help with tuning more than you'd think and the more the merrier. I just added finger tuners to each by-pass and that helped tons to tune on the fly. Tuning takes tons of time and small tweaks and some times you just learn how to drive with limitations. My vote is for By-passes instead of paint
 
You could push the ride height up a little, some extra room for the shock to work can go a long way. Even if you don't like the height, it's easy to try. Past that, dump bleed or flutter flow so the stack reacts quicker and start making the shim stack stiffer. Or like Wade says, if it works good everywhere else, maybe you just have to chill on 5% of the terrain.

No matter what it's entertaining to play with and see what happens. You might be able to make some changes and find it's better everywhere. You'd be better off spending some time and money on just the coilover tuning before dropping big cash on more hardware. I've been in some surprisingly fast trucks on just a 2.5" shock. You might get happy enough for a while.
 
You could push the ride height up a little, some extra room for the shock to work can go a long way. Even if you don't like the height, it's easy to try. Past that, dump bleed or flutter flow so the stack reacts quicker and start making the shim stack stiffer. Or like Wade says, if it works good everywhere else, maybe you just have to chill on 5% of the terrain.

No matter what it's entertaining to play with and see what happens. You might be able to make some changes and find it's better everywhere. You'd be better off spending some time and money on just the coilover tuning before dropping big cash on more hardware. I've been in some surprisingly fast trucks on just a 2.5" shock. You might get happy enough for a while.


Yah I know I’m going to have to change things up for sure. I’ll probably have to up the spring rate in the front. Currently 300/350, but when I add all the tube and an actual front bumper I’ll probably have to up that to maintain ride height without having too much preload.
 

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