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Gahh....I hate asking n00b questions like this....

Zeus33rd

Zeus33rd

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Trying to get the brakes bled on my truck. Got the front working fine. Gravity bled them. Grav bleeding is the best way in my opinion. Anyways, I can't get fluid to the rear calipers at all. Disc rear of course, with 3/4 ton D44 calipers. I figured since it's been sitting for almost a year and a half, some crud might have gotten in somewhere and was clogging things up. So I stuck an air nozzle with a rubber tip in the hole in the bottom of the rear master cylinder reservoir to blow it all out. I got a huge shower of old brake fluid out of the bleeder screws. lol, was kinda cool lookin. So I figured I was good to go and could fill the master up and let it bleed. Filled it, and came back 20 minutes later to check the level- it hadn't changed. Not a crop of fluid from the bleeder screws. And yes I made sure the bleeder screws weren't clogged with $hit. WTF is goin on? Could the master have gone tits up after sitting for the last year and a half? Should I load it on the trailer and take it somewhere to be power bled? Would bleeding the conventional way help? I feel retarded asking a simple question like this, but I can't figure it out. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
depending on your proportioning valve config, you may need to clamp its magic button down.. been a while (okay, almost two years) since I did mine, but IIRC, I had to jig up a C-clamp and a piece of steel stock bent in an L to release te spring-loaded pin on the p-valve.

-- A
 
Are you trying to gravity bleed the rear or are you pushing the pedal? I've never gotten the rear to gravity bleed, even when pushing the prop valve button. I've also never had any problems using the brake pedal to bleed them. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I had the exact same problem and it ended up being my proportioning valve. I could not get any pressure in the rear after I did my disc brake swap. I gutted the PV and haven't had a problem since... well.. except when driving in the snow /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
 
Stupid ? for ya, but you are leaving the MC cap off right????

One thing you can try is cracking the line to the caliper and try to get it to bleed there first, then bolt it up once fluid starts flowing and then hope it comes out the bleeder. I have had to do this before in order to get the fluid to come out of the bleeders...
 
so with the power bleeder you just pressurize the master cylinder then go to each wheel and open the bleeder screw until the fluid with no bubbles comes out correct??
 
Dremu- I looked at and fingered that liittle button, and it doesn't seem like it's stuck out. Has a little rubber cover on it. Is it pretty obvious when it's out?

Blue85- Yeah, tryin to grav bleed the rear. lol, I've never been able to get the fronts to grav bleed till now. Maybe the rears arn't working now cause of the disc brakes. I haven't tried the conventional method yet cause I haven't had any help. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

MudFrog- Gutted the prop valve? Eh? Who, what, WHY, where when etc?

Emmetology_101- Yeah, master cap off, lol. I tried disconnecting a line to the rear and trying to get fluid there. No luck.

Backyardbuilt- BINGO! That power bleeder thing is the $hit dude! I'm on my way to Ace right now. Thanks for the links dude! w00t! /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif


Thanks for all the replys! /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
I had the same problem to joe...
I know a few don't like those speed bleeders but I got them at each corner and after I put them in the rears work just fine now...
1 person bleeding ..Crack open bleeder and the push pedel till all the air is out..Done.
 
Yes you are correct! and you don't have to worry about the master running dry becuase it refills it from the sprayer.

Glad I could help I got that from my camaro board since my truck and camaro are both giving me fits on this subject.
 
i had the idea to use a high quality inline pump and split off the line twice and hook it up too each bleeder, and run it till no bubbles eather have it dump back in to the mc or flush the system by adding more as it drains out would be pritty cheap too. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
Went and bought the sprayer from True Value, some cork gasket material, a bottle of fluid and a air line fitting. Just over $20. Cut out a piece of 1/4" plate in the shape of the master. Drilled a hole for the fitting. Welded the fitting in. Cut the sprayer nozzle off the hose on the sprayer and clamped it to the air fitting. Clamped the plate with gasket material on to the master. I found that the Quick Grip clamps work best cause of the odd shape of the master. Filled the sprayer with brake fluid and let it fly.....Fluid from the rear bleeders in about 15 seconds. WooooHooo! THis is one of the coolest things I've used in awhile. Makes it sooooo easy. I loosely followed the directions in one of the links Backyardbuilt posted. For just under $25, it's waaaay worth it. Truck stops on a dime now. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
how did u mount the air fitting in the plate?? since there are two sections in the master cylinder??
 
Read the links that Backyardbuilt posted. That explains it pretty good. Basically just mount the air fitting 1" in from the edge of the plate. That puts it over the rear section on the master. To bleed the fronts, just flip the plate around so it's over the front section. Also, I bought a steel fitting rather than a brass one so I could weld it on. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
 
I always seem to make a big mess when I mess with pressure bleeding.

I made a vacuum bleeder using a harbor freight vacuum pump (a venturi type that was $14). I used an old jar, some hose, and some fittings and that was it. It works nice and quick and is less likely to make a really big mess of paint eating fluid /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif Only down side is you have to have a compressor to run the vacuum pump.
 
Its kinda funny that I just found them the other day and thought I bet CK5 guys would love these and then I see this post! LOL
 
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