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"garage" (door) thread

KansasTwister

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Well, after 20 years of living with my parents, i can say ive done this. (Fit something major into the garage to work on)

Garage2.jpg


Problem being? The door is in horrible shape, old wooden door, 8x7 is what dad believ1'se (i measured it and got 83.5x84.25, but did it alone and think i may have gotten off somewhere and need to have him help me measure it, dad thinks its 8w and but we know its 7 high. Just wondering how hard it would be to swap in a new, manual door in place of this old one? Thoughts opinions? Can the tracks be reused?

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Garage1.jpg
 
The hardware looks OK. I see you have the long stretchy springs instead of the windup ones that most doors use now.

I have a friend who is in the business, but he mostly just replaces the whole setup. Its cheaper that way with labor.

You might check and see if there is a name tag. You might be able to buy new panels. Or even make new ones. Watch out for those springs though. You need to raise the door, disconnect the springs and then lower the door back before you work on it.

BUT be careful. That door is really heavy without the springs helping.

If you want to try to do it yourself, you can try lowering the door until it is just off the floor.
Put a bolt or something through the tracks, or maybe the lock has a "vent" position that holds it up slightly.

Then you could remove the bottom panel and see what it would take to make another.

A surprising number of the old door companies are either still in operation, or has someone who will supply parts.
 
I have re-skinned a few overhead doors with sheet metal,after the masonite panels got mushy or rotted away..I used stove pipe (galvanized) as a cheap source of sheet metal,it doesn't weigh that much and wont cause the springs to stretch out too much and fail to asist in lifting the door,like they would if you used 1/4" plywood or other heavier materials..I left the old panels intact,and used 1/4" bolts to attach the metal to the outside of the door...

You can replace just the panels if the wood surrounding them is in decent condition--the panels are usually just held in with 1/4 round wood mouldings you can get at a home center..if I replace panels I use 1/4" plywood instead of the masonite stuff or tempered hardboard,that stuff doesn't like moisture...
 
I built a 30x50 shop a year and half ago and put in new 8x10 overhead doors. Very simple and easy to do. I have yet to install the electric openers as I'm too busy. Maybe next summer.

As Fordum said in his post, I'm with him. I'd also look into new doors with tracks. You'll be better off in the long run with new and know everything will go together the first time rather than try and cobble something up.
 
If I go new I will get all tracks etc brand new, but if I can simply find a replacement door panels and hinges and keep the current tracks then I will. The outside frame of the door is rotten on the bottom of the third panel on the right side and we have to baby it up and down or I wouldn't try to replace it lol.
 
well the outside lock says lori and the inside latch has eagle stamped on it. :dunno: Might just have to buy a new door haha.
 
I have been in the OHD business for 20 years now, believe me you are better off replacing the door. Can you get new bottom panels made, maybe. I know Wayne-Dalton still does there older model 310, and 311's. However, the one bottom panel will be pushing $300+ minus labor.
The section may or may not mate up correctly, the hinge looks like some we have taken off of doors from the late 60's early 70's.
Like others have said, you are better off replacing the whole door.
 
Well the bottom has a little rot, but the worst was around the windows. We used some stainless steel wire and wired from the top of the glass panel around the bottom to hold it together. Working way better now.
 
Here is my garage with my Jimmy in it. I have the same doors. At least it is warm and dry.

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Here is my workshop with my Jimmy in it.

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Plenty of room to work.

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If you've got the cash, go with a commercial roll up door with a power motor. Much better than the "garage" style doors.

I just built a 30x50 shop (garage) and have double, 8x20' roll up doors with Michanan motors and couldn't be happier.
 
At the very least run a piece of safety cable through the middle of those existing springs... If /when they break you don't want them flying around the shop and hitting a vehicle or a person.

It's easy and cheap insurance.


:usaflag:
 
At the very least run a piece of safety cable through the middle of those existing springs... If /when they break you don't want them flying around the shop and hitting a vehicle or a person.

It's easy and cheap insurance.


:usaflag:


I can fit a car in there?

:dunno:
 

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