Needing some way better light inside my garage roughly say it is 25x30. Can anyone give some recomm with feed back on what LED lights they would use?
CK5
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Garage LED light recomm....
- Thread starter brans87
- Start date
Link to what you bought? Still happy with them?
"Hyperikon" fluorescent replacements, like
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5TTT0K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lots of light, even coverage, low energy use, no flickering and not yellow like the fluorescents. Love 'em.
-- A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5TTT0K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lots of light, even coverage, low energy use, no flickering and not yellow like the fluorescents. Love 'em.
-- A
sams club what evers . . . don't use a lot yet in booth room . will soon .
got one over garage door opener I use every night when I get home . its hooked in to a bulb to socket adaptor on the door opener . lets just say I can SEE
to back in the dark garage at night 20x better . its on for 5min per time and still going strong.
runamok151
1 ton status
Any of these new fluorescent style lights. They all run about 4000* color temp so they'll look pretty white. Price goes up according to lumens. Something like this would be equivalent to a 4 bulb fluoro set.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-ft-White-LED-Wrap-Ceiling-Light-54654141/206032014
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-ft-White-LED-Wrap-Ceiling-Light-54654141/206032014
Joe In Montana
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I used these,
in rows of three on a 2x4 that I pre-sprayed with 3M contact cement since the tape glue as supplied is pretty weak.
I put up four 2x4s and they light up my 30 x 30 garage very well. Not quite sunglasses strong, but very nice and white. That's 12 rolls of LEDs and two power supplies.
With a few well-placed over-desk LED lights, this will be complete as a guitar building/welding/pipe fitting/fencing shop. Oh yeah - and a canoe shoppe!
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens/dp/B00JQV6U7Q
in rows of three on a 2x4 that I pre-sprayed with 3M contact cement since the tape glue as supplied is pretty weak.
I put up four 2x4s and they light up my 30 x 30 garage very well. Not quite sunglasses strong, but very nice and white. That's 12 rolls of LEDs and two power supplies.
With a few well-placed over-desk LED lights, this will be complete as a guitar building/welding/pipe fitting/fencing shop. Oh yeah - and a canoe shoppe!
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens/dp/B00JQV6U7Q
I used these,
in rows of three on a 2x4 that I pre-sprayed with 3M contact cement since the tape glue as supplied is pretty weak.
I put up four 2x4s and they light up my 30 x 30 garage very well. Not quite sunglasses strong, but very nice and white. That's 12 rolls of LEDs and two power supplies.
With a few well-placed over-desk LED lights, this will be complete as a guitar building/welding/pipe fitting/fencing shop. Oh yeah - and a canoe shoppe!
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens/dp/B00JQV6U7Q
I've read alot about this.
Any issues so far
Joe In Montana
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The power supplies are a switching type in that they don't use power until there's a load on the other end. My idea was to keep the power running - not switching it off at the 120 volt supply and it allows the LEDs to light up instantly. Otherwise there is a delay of a couple of seconds before they emit light.
There are no drop outs and the prophecy of them lasting 50K years - well, I won't be around anyway to know if they run that long or not.
They DO emit a little heat - not to burn anything, but they get warm a bit.
Be warned that the glue on the back of the tape is too weak to last very long, hence the spray contact cement in a can by 3M. .
There are no drop outs and the prophecy of them lasting 50K years - well, I won't be around anyway to know if they run that long or not.
They DO emit a little heat - not to burn anything, but they get warm a bit.
Be warned that the glue on the back of the tape is too weak to last very long, hence the spray contact cement in a can by 3M. .
So couple more questions for ya @Joe In Montana .
How high are your ceilings?
How far apart are they.
I'm assuming since they are 16 ft strips they are 16 ft long.
I think I would probably bend up some thing gauge galvanized if I go this route.
The other thing is how about damage? Do you think being exposed to a garage environment might cause issues?
I do mostly metal fab stuff and I'm so so, hence lots of grinding dust
How high are your ceilings?
How far apart are they.
I'm assuming since they are 16 ft strips they are 16 ft long.
I think I would probably bend up some thing gauge galvanized if I go this route.
The other thing is how about damage? Do you think being exposed to a garage environment might cause issues?
I do mostly metal fab stuff and I'm so so, hence lots of grinding dust
@blazinzuk I have some if you want to look at them. I use them for interior lights in the blazer and the truck
Joe In Montana
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How high are your ceilings?
10 feet
How far apart are they.
About 5 feet
I'm assuming since they are 16 ft strips they are 16 ft long.
16.7 feet or 5 sillimeters for any Europeans reading this...... if you want though, you can safely double back the LED tape to make them a tad over 8 feet long each.
I think I would probably bend up some thing gauge galvanized if I go this route.
I've seen them glued to old fluorescent tube reflectors, so metal doesn't seem to be a problem.
The other thing is how about damage?
Physically smacking them, like any other lights, might damage them too....but they are cheap!
Do you think being exposed to a garage environment might cause issues?
Welding splatter shouldn't get that high - but grinding spray might. Hmmmm, I don't think that's a problem since no actual circuits are exposed.
Moisture shouldn't neither as you can get them in waterproof designation.
Solvent vapors might cause the contact cement to yield though.
I do mostly metal fab stuff and I'm so so, hence lots of grinding dust.
Dust falling down can't matter since mine are flush to the ceiling and even though I have been known to convert my shop to a vehicle painting booth, I don't think much of anything can fall UP to contaminate them.
I LED'd a very tall.... 20' high shop for a friend in his bus-RV motor home glass shop, and just ran triple strips from about 6' off the floor, up the wall and over the top of the ceiling and back down the opposite wall to 6' off the floor and these triple LED strips were 4' on center from each other.
His shop is 40' wide by 30 ' deep and when they are all on, you've gotta wear sunglasses or go blind from all the light.
PS......... I got the LED'S that can be made dimmer, color changed, strobe and have the colors "chase each other " by using the remote control that's available for them.
Psychedelic. ... wow!
He needed side lighting too, so that's why he wanted to go so low on each side of the walls. Plus he wanted to be able to change the lighting by turning on or off different segments of the LEDs, which is very easy with remote control.
I just ran them on the edge of the existing studs and truss boards.
This was new construction, so no built up gunk on the beams and exposed surfaces yet though. I still used the spray 3M contact cement. 3 months up now and no glue or LED failures although 1 of the 6 remote controls died and was warranty replaced.
Any one of the remote controls can run the whole shop lighting, but I wired in some wall mounted switches too..... just 'in case' of zombies eating all the remote controls at the same time.
His shop might get to below 0F if he doesn't keep the floor heated in the winter.....but even thought they light up (which fluorescents won't at those temps) they should have no other special problems I feel.
He can happily freeze to death while sunbathing in lots of vitamin D.
10 feet
How far apart are they.
About 5 feet
I'm assuming since they are 16 ft strips they are 16 ft long.
16.7 feet or 5 sillimeters for any Europeans reading this...... if you want though, you can safely double back the LED tape to make them a tad over 8 feet long each.
I think I would probably bend up some thing gauge galvanized if I go this route.
I've seen them glued to old fluorescent tube reflectors, so metal doesn't seem to be a problem.
The other thing is how about damage?
Physically smacking them, like any other lights, might damage them too....but they are cheap!
Do you think being exposed to a garage environment might cause issues?
Welding splatter shouldn't get that high - but grinding spray might. Hmmmm, I don't think that's a problem since no actual circuits are exposed.
Moisture shouldn't neither as you can get them in waterproof designation.
Solvent vapors might cause the contact cement to yield though.
I do mostly metal fab stuff and I'm so so, hence lots of grinding dust.
Dust falling down can't matter since mine are flush to the ceiling and even though I have been known to convert my shop to a vehicle painting booth, I don't think much of anything can fall UP to contaminate them.
I LED'd a very tall.... 20' high shop for a friend in his bus-RV motor home glass shop, and just ran triple strips from about 6' off the floor, up the wall and over the top of the ceiling and back down the opposite wall to 6' off the floor and these triple LED strips were 4' on center from each other.
His shop is 40' wide by 30 ' deep and when they are all on, you've gotta wear sunglasses or go blind from all the light.
PS......... I got the LED'S that can be made dimmer, color changed, strobe and have the colors "chase each other " by using the remote control that's available for them.
Psychedelic. ... wow!
He needed side lighting too, so that's why he wanted to go so low on each side of the walls. Plus he wanted to be able to change the lighting by turning on or off different segments of the LEDs, which is very easy with remote control.
I just ran them on the edge of the existing studs and truss boards.
This was new construction, so no built up gunk on the beams and exposed surfaces yet though. I still used the spray 3M contact cement. 3 months up now and no glue or LED failures although 1 of the 6 remote controls died and was warranty replaced.
Any one of the remote controls can run the whole shop lighting, but I wired in some wall mounted switches too..... just 'in case' of zombies eating all the remote controls at the same time.
His shop might get to below 0F if he doesn't keep the floor heated in the winter.....but even thought they light up (which fluorescents won't at those temps) they should have no other special problems I feel.
He can happily freeze to death while sunbathing in lots of vitamin D.
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
Do alot of research coz the AMA says that SOME leds are not healthy.
Joe In Montana
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The AMA also says that they want to make aspirin into a prescription drug too.
Certain wavelengths of light are not as healthy as others, and there may be less or more of a tendency to over scare people about skin cancers too. It's a lot of New Wave pseudo-medicine I think.
There is a c/p that I like to show about here in these conversations:
Melatonin-suppressing light is “dangerous only if we expose ourselves to it during the hours when we should be in the dark, and if the exposure is sufficiently intense or long,” says physicist Fabio Falchi, of the Light Pollution Science and Technology Institute in Italy. He advises people to rely more on incandescent light after dark, especially in the bedroom.
This is in reference to BLUE light waves which are hard to focus as the wavelength falls short of the retina so it cannot be focused clearly - and that it triggers the pineal gland to suppress melatonin production - which regulates sleep.
This is a big reason why one should not have blue pilot lights running in one's bedroom, as it will interrupt sleep by falsely telling the subconscious that there's daylight and it's time to get up. If your bedroom is lit up like the mainn deck on the Starship USS Enterprise, then you might be losing REM cycles and the effects they have on good health and (yes) even can cause suicidal thoughts.
Continuing with my favorite process of c/p, I have this article translated from French or Italian - I forget which - but it has some good non-scary news:
LED lights are perfectly safe:
[1] UV radiation concerns had been raised for CFL bulbs, but they too are safe, because the intensity is insignificant compared to UV radiation from daylight.
[2] In contrast, CFL lamps contain mercury vapours in quantities that are not dangerous, but require special recycling.
[3] http://texyt.com/bright+blue+led...
[4] http://www.ehow.com/facts_744581...
[5] as it is done by Cree, f.e. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf...
See also:
http://www.osram.com/osram_com/L...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lig... (section on safety)
Most of the controversy that can be found on the web right now is on the potential hazards of CFLs and on whether a transition from incandescents directly to LEDs would be better.
The matter of fact is that both CFLs and LEDs are perfectly safe.
It has been observed that all the prattle is roused by marketers, trying to edge their competitors out of the market, which is sad, because it slows down adoption of energy efficient lighting in general.
Certain wavelengths of light are not as healthy as others, and there may be less or more of a tendency to over scare people about skin cancers too. It's a lot of New Wave pseudo-medicine I think.
There is a c/p that I like to show about here in these conversations:
Melatonin-suppressing light is “dangerous only if we expose ourselves to it during the hours when we should be in the dark, and if the exposure is sufficiently intense or long,” says physicist Fabio Falchi, of the Light Pollution Science and Technology Institute in Italy. He advises people to rely more on incandescent light after dark, especially in the bedroom.
This is in reference to BLUE light waves which are hard to focus as the wavelength falls short of the retina so it cannot be focused clearly - and that it triggers the pineal gland to suppress melatonin production - which regulates sleep.
This is a big reason why one should not have blue pilot lights running in one's bedroom, as it will interrupt sleep by falsely telling the subconscious that there's daylight and it's time to get up. If your bedroom is lit up like the mainn deck on the Starship USS Enterprise, then you might be losing REM cycles and the effects they have on good health and (yes) even can cause suicidal thoughts.
Continuing with my favorite process of c/p, I have this article translated from French or Italian - I forget which - but it has some good non-scary news:
LED lights are perfectly safe:
- They emit less UV radiation than any other type of light, see fig. [1].
- They are very energy efficient (100lumens/W) and they are cold to the touch, so they are safe for handling and less likely to start a fire.
- They are harmless when broken by accident [2].
- Cold white light LEDs may be irritating to some people with light sensitivity, but nowadays warm white light LEDs are available. Eyestrain is mainly caused by blue LEDs, such as those found on electronic devices [3]. However white LED lights should be tested for photobiological safety [4] according to the ANSI/IESNA RP-27 standard [5].
[1] UV radiation concerns had been raised for CFL bulbs, but they too are safe, because the intensity is insignificant compared to UV radiation from daylight.
[2] In contrast, CFL lamps contain mercury vapours in quantities that are not dangerous, but require special recycling.
[3] http://texyt.com/bright+blue+led...
[4] http://www.ehow.com/facts_744581...
[5] as it is done by Cree, f.e. http://www.cree.com/products/pdf...
See also:
http://www.osram.com/osram_com/L...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lig... (section on safety)
Most of the controversy that can be found on the web right now is on the potential hazards of CFLs and on whether a transition from incandescents directly to LEDs would be better.
The matter of fact is that both CFLs and LEDs are perfectly safe.
It has been observed that all the prattle is roused by marketers, trying to edge their competitors out of the market, which is sad, because it slows down adoption of energy efficient lighting in general.
