gas tank relocation options

[Magikal]

Thinking of putting 64" springs in the rear if my k5 (4" lift on 38's) gonna keep front hangars where they are, pushing the axle back about a foot. Body trimming, drive line,etc need attention I know but my big concern is now the pumpkin will hit the gas tank if it's not relocated. Has anyone dealt with this issue? What are my options? I don't want a fuel cell in the bed. I want to keep it underneath somewhere.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

If you don't move the front spring hanger, it will move the axle back 6". Gas tank will probably be a problem, might be able to fit one of the smaller 20-22 gallon (whatever size they are) tanks. I know the 69-72 Blazers have skinnier tanks too.

 

[Magikal]

Actually I am estimating it moving the axle rearward closer to 12".I was thinking maybe I could move the tank forward but it may still be in the way. I guess I just need to pull the tank and play around with it.....

 

[muddermilitia]

The k5 has 52" long springs in the back with a centered spring pin. The 64" springs also have a centered spring pin. Yes there is a 12" difference, but that is in total length. So the center spring pin will actually move back 6 inches, not 12.

Back to the topic at hand. My 89 k5 has 64" springs in the back with the front mounts in the stock location. My ORD shackle flip is mounted so that it points rearward and the whole hanger was moved back several inches. I am running a 7" long spring shackle. I still have the 31 gallon big k5 gas tank. I even have the stock gas tank skid plate on there.

I have a large Diff cover, the razorback, from DIY4X. My skid plate has very light scratches from the ribs on the diff cover rubbing against it, but nothing major. If you had a regular diff cover, I would imagine that it would never hit

 

[Magikal]

Can you send some pics?

 

[muddermilitia]

Yeah I can post some later today

 

[muddermilitia]

First off, on the K5 frame you will have to modify this section. Otherwise the shackle hanger wont sit flush. We made a slice then hammered up that hump at the bottom of the frame & re welded it.



With the 14bff in place:



With DIY4X backbone truss installed:

 

[muddermilitia]

Oh and I take back my comment about the diff cover leaving scratches on the skid plate.The scratches were actually from the brake line union where the hard lines connect to the flexible line. The piece is bolted to the top of that truss (in between the two right side bolts where the diff ring connects to the truss.) The bolt that attaches the brake line is what has rubbed on the skid a few times

 

[Blue85]

I vote to put the gas tank on the roof rack. With a carb you won't even need a fuel pump, so that's added reliability. A roll-over is an issue, I admit, but it should be an awesome setup for siphoning gas out for your mower or filling up another car from it.

 

[Magikal]

Thanx for the pics. I was looking at mine again this afternoon and if the axle only moves rearward 6" then I think the gas tank will clear. Having done this mod, what are your thoughts on it? Is it worth the trouble? Pros and cons? Was axle wrap an issue with such a long spring?

 

[muddermilitia]

I vote to put the gas tank on the roof rack. With a carb you won't even need a fuel pump, so that's added reliability. A roll-over is an issue, I admit, but it should be an awesome setup for siphoning gas out for your mower or filling up another car from it.

Thanx for the pics. I was looking at mine again this afternoon and if the axle only moves rearward 6" then I think the gas tank will clear. Having done this mod, what are your thoughts on it? Is it worth the trouble? Pros and cons? Was axle wrap an issue with such a long spring?

Axle wrap ended up being an issue, which is why I have a warp bar on it now. I got 2 pairs of 64" springs for free so that pretty much convinced me to do it lol. Otherwise I probably would have done flipped around 56" springs. The wheelbase is nice. I wouldn't want it to be any longer though.