CK5
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Gauge Clusters
- Thread starter Cricket
- Start date
All the fuel gauges are the same for Blazers '73-91, in regards to shape/placement in gauge cluster.
The only time they were different than that, was when a tach was present, and the fuel gauge was moved to the clock position.
I hope that is what you are asking, since there are no oval gauges '73-91.
The only time they were different than that, was when a tach was present, and the fuel gauge was moved to the clock position.
I hope that is what you are asking, since there are no oval gauges '73-91.
Yep, and it's a damn shame a tach wasn't present more often... I feel handicapped without one! And the fuel gauge in that position is just a waste of space. I'd love to get a hold of an original tach (and a small-type fuel gauge to go along) but I know they're scarce, and heard they're pretty expensive when available - maybe even more so since I'm looking for the diesel version. Anybody know how those were wired up by the way? To the generator? Seems they would have to be recalibrated ever so often in that case, so I doubt that's how they did it.
Yeah, I know, I could just get an aftermarket tach and mount it on the dash or somewhere - and maybe that's what I'll have to resort to - but nothing would beat an OEM one in the appropriate position.
Yeah, I know, I could just get an aftermarket tach and mount it on the dash or somewhere - and maybe that's what I'll have to resort to - but nothing would beat an OEM one in the appropriate position.
Leper
1/2 ton status
Find an old C60. Like a dump truck. It will have the large(diesel) tack and the fuel gauge in the bottom of it.
Leper
Leper
dyeager535 said:All the fuel gauges are the same for Blazers '73-91, in regards to shape/placement in gauge cluster.
The only time they were different than that, was when a tach was present, and the fuel gauge was moved to the clock position.
I hope that is what you are asking, since there are no oval gauges '73-91.
Yep, that's what I wanted to know. What about resistance/voltage?
The reason I ask: My 77K10 still has the gauge for the 20 gal. saddle tank. I have swapped in a 31 gal. TBI tank and while my 77 gauge works - it reads full plus another 1/4 around the gauge face - when filled.
I'm assuming the 77 dash gauge and the 91 sending unit are not sympatico. So I'm hypothetically theorizing that if I can get my mitts on a later year Blazer dash gauge the problem will be solved.
Well Crap, after further searching in the CK5 archives it appears I may have a circuit problem. If all GM tanks and gauges 0-90 ohms will work with each other than the problem is in the wiring or sender. I know the dash gauge is good so that leaves the sending unit. I have a good ground to the frame.
Bloody HE-double toothpicks.
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If the gauge worked before the swap, but not after, then yes, I'd tend to agree that it's the sender. Don't discount other problem locations though, these things do happen at the most inopportune times.
Did you pull the sender from the TBI tank before install? I consider that a must if buying used tanks, as the TBI tanks are VERY prone to messing the sender up when the stock plastic tank baffle breaks.
Besides, if you pull the sender, you can clean it to make sure that it works correctly. You can test the gauge/sender out of the tank, moving the float full travel and watching if the gauge follows.
Did you pull the sender from the TBI tank before install? I consider that a must if buying used tanks, as the TBI tanks are VERY prone to messing the sender up when the stock plastic tank baffle breaks.
Besides, if you pull the sender, you can clean it to make sure that it works correctly. You can test the gauge/sender out of the tank, moving the float full travel and watching if the gauge follows.
dyeager535 said:If the gauge worked before the swap, but not after, then yes, I'd tend to agree that it's the sender. Don't discount other problem locations though, these things do happen at the most inopportune times.
Did you pull the sender from the TBI tank before install? I consider that a must if buying used tanks, as the TBI tanks are VERY prone to messing the sender up when the stock plastic tank baffle breaks.
Besides, if you pull the sender, you can clean it to make sure that it works correctly. You can test the gauge/sender out of the tank, moving the float full travel and watching if the gauge follows.
The gauge worked fine with the saddle tank. Problem cropped up as soon as I filled the TBI tank up and the level gauge read over into the 3 'o-clock position. Funny when I just had a few gallons in it it read at 1/4 tank. It's working and isn't pegged, it's just reading high when filled. The pump that was in it works great and delivers a solid 14 psi. The sending unit must have a problem. I'll pull it and find out. Can you key the sender on when the pump isn't submerged?
Fuel gauges I don't use no stinking fuel gauges! 
I use the trip odometer; 10 mpg is what I rule it, 31 gallon tank = 310 miles put fuel in fill it all the way up. No problems! Gave up on my darn gauge six months ago.
I use the trip odometer; 10 mpg is what I rule it, 31 gallon tank = 310 miles put fuel in fill it all the way up. No problems! Gave up on my darn gauge six months ago.
You can key the gauge with the sender out, just disconnect the pump, there is a connector on it's top.
If the gauge is pegged to the full the wire leading to it is shorted somewhere.
Another idea, if you swapped tanks, you should still have your old senders around, right? 
Pull it out and test it on your rig. Don't even need to drop your 31 gallon tank. That way you don't spend the time dropping your tank. You could still potentially have gauge/wiring problems external of the tank. Not likely, but easy as heck to do, only step you are adding is retrieving the old sender.
Pull it out and test it on your rig. Don't even need to drop your 31 gallon tank. That way you don't spend the time dropping your tank. You could still potentially have gauge/wiring problems external of the tank. Not likely, but easy as heck to do, only step you are adding is retrieving the old sender.
4X4HIGH said:
It isn't pegged constantly and does drop with the fuel level. The problem is where it's reading on the gauge when full - 3:00 position putting it a full 1/4 turn past the gauge full line.
I'm betting it's in the sender because the needle has some large swings when I take a corner. I'll see soon enough.
Ok, sounds like a sender issue then.
Large swings?
That might be a gauge problem.
The gauge reading should change SLOWLY, no matter what the operating conditions of the vehicle. That damping is done via the gauge, not the sender. The sender float is constantly moving, if the gauge swings in concert with what you suspect the fuel in the tank is doing, you've got problems with the gauge.
However, the movement is typically quite fast, actually quite violent looking, even on things like speed bumps.
Mine started doing this after I swapped tanks too, but it must have been luck of the draw for me. Swapped gauge, no problem.
IIRC from the GM manual, it says to give the gauge something like one minute to reflect change in resistance at the sender. (Which is part of the GM test procedure, vary the resistance on the wire and see how the gauge reacts)
That might be a gauge problem.
The gauge reading should change SLOWLY, no matter what the operating conditions of the vehicle. That damping is done via the gauge, not the sender. The sender float is constantly moving, if the gauge swings in concert with what you suspect the fuel in the tank is doing, you've got problems with the gauge.
However, the movement is typically quite fast, actually quite violent looking, even on things like speed bumps.
Mine started doing this after I swapped tanks too, but it must have been luck of the draw for me. Swapped gauge, no problem.
IIRC from the GM manual, it says to give the gauge something like one minute to reflect change in resistance at the sender. (Which is part of the GM test procedure, vary the resistance on the wire and see how the gauge reacts)
AuH2O said:
yeah... however when im in the mud and tight trails.. I dont look down... hence why im looking into a rev limiter.. cuz I burry the 5G tach all the time.. .
Leper said:
easier said than done....
I found a few.. gauges already removed... and the ones with them they want $200-$350 for the gauge cluster!!!
