CK5
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Gear oil
- Thread starter PHC CK5
- Start date
If you’re in colder climate I would say 75-90.
Hotter climates, 85-140.
I always run synthetic in everything I own.
Trans is going to be dexron III or higher. If I’m not using amsoil, I’ve always had great luck with valvoline.
Hotter climates, 85-140.
I always run synthetic in everything I own.
Trans is going to be dexron III or higher. If I’m not using amsoil, I’ve always had great luck with valvoline.
Thank you. What will be the difference if I run the dexron vi in the 700r4?
Dex VI is the newest version. That’s what I usually find at the store. According to the internet, dex6 has a lower viscosity than dex3 but is more shear stable and retains a higher overall viscosity.
I've read all Dexron VI has either a synthetic blend or fully synthetic base,and is supposedly safe to use in any automatic that Dexron II or III was used in...
It is very confusing trying to figure out what fluids are "compatible" or what if any substitutes can be used as an upgrade..you can spend a year on sites like "Bob the oil guy" reading all the pro's,con's and arguments over which brand is "best",etc..
..
I've always used 75W or 85W-140 gear oil in everything,all my trucks had well over 100K and enough wear to allow for thicker oil...some I also added a can of Motor-Medic to thicken up the lube more and reduce gear whine...the only bad result from that was trying it in an SM465,it was near impossible to move the shifter below 20 degrees to get it in gear,and in neutral,if you let out the clutch,the truck wanted to go forward--the oil was like grease,a fluid drive almost!..had to dump it after driving it awhile and I put 80W-90 in it instead,that made a big improvement..
It is very confusing trying to figure out what fluids are "compatible" or what if any substitutes can be used as an upgrade..you can spend a year on sites like "Bob the oil guy" reading all the pro's,con's and arguments over which brand is "best",etc..
..I've always used 75W or 85W-140 gear oil in everything,all my trucks had well over 100K and enough wear to allow for thicker oil...some I also added a can of Motor-Medic to thicken up the lube more and reduce gear whine...the only bad result from that was trying it in an SM465,it was near impossible to move the shifter below 20 degrees to get it in gear,and in neutral,if you let out the clutch,the truck wanted to go forward--the oil was like grease,a fluid drive almost!..had to dump it after driving it awhile and I put 80W-90 in it instead,that made a big improvement..
I run 85-140 because it’s hot here. I use conventional oil, since here in the southeast water can be common and many times the fluid needs to be changed because of contamination.
I see no point in using synthetics in old vehicles that have lots of miles driven on regular lubes...the main advantage to using synthetics is to prevent wear better right from the start..once a wear pattern is established after many miles of regular lubes,the synthetics may provide a slim degree of further protection,but by then,the "damage" is done already..
While the more expensive synthetics wont likely do any harm to old parts ,it might too- (some may disagree,and I too have seen some engines fail shortly after a switch to synthetic oils that had regular oil in them up until that point,might just be coincidence---
-or maybe not ?)..
In my old trucks that have had conventional lubes used since new,and everything needs topping off regularly,I just stick with regular motor and gear oils--that is what they had when they were new,it was good enough then,it still is now..if I had a new vehicle I'd probably use synthetic after the break in period with regular lubes,unless they specify synthetics from day one..
While the more expensive synthetics wont likely do any harm to old parts ,it might too- (some may disagree,and I too have seen some engines fail shortly after a switch to synthetic oils that had regular oil in them up until that point,might just be coincidence---
-or maybe not ?)..
In my old trucks that have had conventional lubes used since new,and everything needs topping off regularly,I just stick with regular motor and gear oils--that is what they had when they were new,it was good enough then,it still is now..if I had a new vehicle I'd probably use synthetic after the break in period with regular lubes,unless they specify synthetics from day one..
Use synthetic in the gear boxes because they work smoother in the winter, and in the differentials because there is a measurable difference in fuel mileage
Exactly what I was going to say. There are benefits to old worn out parts. Particularly heat generation. Synthetic helps alot with that by itself.
Agreed
What about for a Detroit locker?
It won’t notice a thing
