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gear ratios

Have you checked out the low geared 205? I think they are about $1000! Also remember the higher the gears the weaker they get, so by switching the tranfer case you can keep your srtonger gears.Don't forget the $ of the drive line mods too. Oh and by the way, Merry Cristmas Chas.
Julian
 
I just tried to call you to ask about your setup. go figure it was busy.:rolleyes:

Merry Christmas back at ya.

and a happy festivus.
 
Id go 5.38's being its the deepest you can get out of a 14bff...

Going to a 70 allows yo uto go even deeper. much deeper sets are available for dana axles...
 
TH350,203/205,4.88 gears, 44" tires. still want some kind of lower gearing, mostly for going down hills. One more thing as far as I know you can't get 5.30s for a 70, you have to go up to 5.86s
 
86 K5, crate 350, 700R4 OD, 8" susp lift, 36x15.50 Baja Claw Radials, stock 10bolts Im assuming 3.08 because its a TURTLE!!!!!!!!!! Horrendous, been scanning for a good deal on 4.56-5.13...might have some 5.13s from a member here in the future if Im lucky, or trying to get some military 4.56 rears. Anyone reading this in the mid atlantic region that has a pair of axles let me know! RIght now, even when I get the engine fixed, I wont be driving it until I get some better gearing...its horrible...

In high school and college I had an 87 K5, 350 FI, 4 speed manual with granny gear...had 33s w/3.73, Centerforce dual friction clutch, and that thing would smoke the hell outta 33s no problem. Not that it was smart, but that truck ran like a raped ape...best truck I ever owned. Only got rid of it because it got towed as a public safety hazard in CT, they wouldnt allow it on the streets it leaked so many fluids and was rotted to hell...gave it to a college buddy for $600 and he drove it in NY for a few more years.

I cant stand not having off the line grunt...I dont know how people with huge lifts and poor gearing tolerate it.
 
gmc4cw said:
yes its a 60/14 bolt combo. geuss 5.13 is the way to go since I don't feel like swapping axles again.

One other thing to consider is that the way you are calculating your crawl ratio is a little "off" too....

With an automatic, you also factor in a "torque converter" ratio of about 2:1 because the slippage before lockup (which is happening at low crawling speeds) is giving you a numerically lower ratio.

In other words, take your previous calculations and double the numbers you got..... your 36:1 is more like 72:1 in reality. With 44s, a good target ratio would be in the 120:1 to 130:1 range.... if you can get that, you'll be stylin'

:usaflag:
 
muddybuddy said:
my ratio will be 163 once im done :) thanks to greg:bow:


Don't thank me, I just sold you the parts. You're the one who has to figure out out to assemble everything correctly and get it working!!! :haha: I can guarantee that you're going to love the "options" you'll have with both a 2:1 and 3:1 rangebox though....

:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
Don't thank me, I just sold you the parts. You're the one who has to figure out out to assemble everything correctly and get it working!!! :haha: I can guarantee that you're going to love the "options" you'll have with both a 2:1 and 3:1 rangebox though....

:usaflag:

:haha: true. apparently the box is actually 3.18 or something according to another guy on here. so 6.4:1 should be nice:D hopefully by the spring ill be able to get the thing all together and in the truck
 
how does a slipping torque converter give you a lower ratio?
I mean I understand that it is taking more revolutions to get the same movement when its slipping as opposed to when its locked up but wouldn't that just build up heat? How would that give you a lower crawl ratio?

-A
 
Personally I wouldn't spend money on the diffs. Consider the Lomax 3:1 205 t-case. If thats not low enough then consider the stakk 3 speed case. I don't recall the exact ratio, but one ratio is close to 2.4 and the other is close to 5:1. Somebody can chime in and correct my ratios, but those are close.
 

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