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gear reduction starter

6

6.2L Jimmy

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 2, 2002
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Location
Montreal,Quebec
Howdy All,

I was just wondering if anyone makes gear reduction starters for 6.2L engines? I have one on my Camaro and am totally amazed with it and I am starting to suspect my current starter on my 6.2L . It is only clicking now when I turn the key now , but I had to have a kill switch installed on the truck to make my insurance company happy . Well I was wondering if that could be the problem too? When I turn the key I hear a click noise from the column as well. Thanks for any help in this matter. Not cool man ...outside temps are like -15 now with high winds. Doesnt $%it always happen at the wrong time and just before X-mas too. Ouch! I just went through a 400.00 problem with my drive shaft and a towing and it still isnt resolved yet /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
Thanks
Mike
 
I put a gear-reduction unit on mine... was from a '99 Savana 3500 w/6.5L turbo. Bolts right on. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
If it's the starter clicking, I don't think it's you kill switch. I've had starters burn the contacts in the solenoid and just click or turn-over real slow. A replacement solenoid is around $20.00 IIRC.

Late model 6.2's (& all 6.5) came witha a geared starter. I'm not sure when they started but my '89 has the geared unit.
 
Thats an idea. I think I will call about a starter solenoid tomorrow. Do you have any brand recomendations or just go G.M.? Thanks for the replys. I might even call a few scrapyards for a gear driven starter you never know. Thanks again
Mike
 
Does anyone have a pic of a gear reduction unit?
Thanks
Mike /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I almost got one once. I was given one as a warrenty exchange on my old one. I couldn't use it because the gear reduction starters need a different front bracket. If you get one make sure you get a front starter bracket for a 6.5.
 
Thanks everybody for the replies.
Gonna look into it today.
Mike
P.s. Are the gear reduction starters smaller like on a gasser? I have a Hamburger starter and it is about 1/3 the size and weight of regular starter.
 
Hi again,

If it was my ignition switch that went bad would I still get a click at the starter solenoid. I know I heard a fairly loud click in ths steering column as well when the truck stopped starting. Thanks
Mike /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Usually when the clicking starts, it's either the solenoid or the current to the solenoid.
In my experience, it's 99% of the times the ignition going to the solenoid.
The ignition contacts are not sized properly to have all this high current flow through it.
So usually after a few years the contacts get weak and fail tp flow enough current to activate the solenoid.
I just put a starter relay on and it works.
To make sure it's the ignition problem:
go under the truck and bridge the ignition post on to the power post on the starter, if it turns, then you have a problem in your ignition circuit, if it clicks then you have a bad solenoid.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Got my new solenoid now I cant get the old one off at all . I removed the 2 retaining screws and it seperated but I bac see a black rubber boot going into my solenoid and a spring. I tried the turn 90 degree thing but with no avail.
Help...what do I do next. When I pull on the solenoid it engages the bandex and the starter teeth move up the shaft to where they are visible. Thanks
Mike /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Well I got it off, But the plunger stayed in the solenoid, it disconected from a fork in the starter nose. Is it supposed to come out this way or am I in trouble now? I just discovered that the new solonoid is not the same size either so I gotta change it now as well (joy). Freezing today it hit minus 25 with wind chill factor. Cold on the fingers let me tell you . Thanks
Mike /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
The ignition contacts are not sized properly to have all this high current flow through it.


[/ QUOTE ] The ignition does not have high current running through it. The solenoid is a relay, the switch energizes the solenoid which closes contact in the solenoid which allows current to flow.
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
To make sure it's the ignition problem:
go under the truck and bridge the ignition post on to the power post on the starter, if it turns, then you have a problem in your ignition circuit, if it clicks then you have a bad solenoid.


[/ QUOTE ]
Doing this your bypassing the solenoid, so it does not prove there is a bad ignition circuit or bad solenoid.
 
I am sorry but I have to disagree, and I know what I am talking about.
The solenoid is a big magnetic relay, and it requires less than the starter itself but a little more than a tired old lomg wire and ignition.
The way they feed the power to it, the voltage drop is so high that it cannot engage fully so it doesn't make good contact on the big line.
I have worked on starters and alternators for 15 years in the automotive electrics business, and I have seen everything from American to European to Japanese, and even british, and I know what I am talking about.
You don't believe me, check out the MAD website for more info.
They know their business, the only problem I have with them is their high pricing.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Dont be sorry, the solenoid is an electro magnet. Why is it only a 16 gauge wire then? Which web site? Can you post a link.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Oh you lazy man

[/ QUOTE ]
/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gifThanks, for the link
 
Great sites /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif, bookmarked both of them, to much info to look through now, ill get back to ya.
 
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