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Gear Set-up Question

375 H&H

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setting up a 14 bolt with a new AAM two cut R&P. this is my first one, so i'm lacking the confidence to button it up with this much money sunk into it.

so what do you guys say? lash is .008". should i leave it alone or should i cut the lash down and add a little more to the pinion shim stack?

drive side

001-5_zpsd7d0e9dc.jpg


coast

008-1_zps68d08f86.jpg
 
5-8 preferred b/l . you at max now and once broken in be more.

and this is a great chart to help in setup . you do look close tho . :thumb:

you look real close to top left .

Figure_28.jpg
 
SK3, thanks for the pic. i'd lke to get the lash down. i'll see what i can do. not sure what one hole in the adjusters will net me in lash decrease. i'll make that adjustment tomorrow.
 
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That pattern looks respectable. I've setup AAM gears before and they will pattern just as your images portray, a diagonal pattern across the gear faces.

Most gearsets, new or used, will never read a perfect pattern. Pinion depth will affect pattern a lot more than backlash. I might play with backlash a little to get a contact pattern off the toe or heel of the gear. As your gears are demonstrating, an OEM gearset will read better and more consistently than aftermarket. With that in mind, make adjustments to compensate for the evils and forego a perfect pattern that may never be obtained.

Considering that this is your first, you have done an excellent job and pattern looks acceptable to me. Pattern is not off the toe or heel of the gear and no noteworthy hard edges towards the face or flank.

I usually check backlash at three points, in thirds, on the ring gear. It's not often that I would measure .008", .008", .008". If you use that method, what is the range of backlash you get at three points?

One full hole will move you too far on your preload and backlash. Preload on used bearings is two holes from bearings seated after rotation, three holes for new bearings. When you optain optimum preload and backlash, the holes will often not line up perfectly with the keepers and you will have to cock the keepers a little bit.
 
thanks, guys!

the gear lash varied from .0065" to .008". preload is three holes past contact (new bearings), and i do think i'll have a hard time improving on the lash numbers because, as you pointed out, i'm limited to lining the holes up to the keepers and those leave pretty coarse adjustments to work with.

below is a picture of a pattern on another place on the the ring gear. this shows a tad more root contact maybe? my thoughts are to add a thousandth or so to the pinion shim stack and that may reduce the root contact and loosen lash enough to get to the next keeper holes but i don't know if i'm gonna improve things or just letting my OCD get the better of me..

011_zps58960eae.jpg
 
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The pattern you have is perfectly fine. Nice smooth round lines, paint on top and bottom. Run em.

I pretty much try to set backlash at the minimum. I have measured backlash on a couple gearsets I have done after 10k miles or so and they have always opened up to the middle or high end of the tolerance.

So I tend to ignore people when they say you need to adjust backlash to get the pattern more centered because its going to change
 
Am I think only one who sets my gears up in the .008-.012 backlash range? Most the rear ends I've done were Fords. Which that's what they call for, are the GM diffs different?
 
the specs for this diff (14 bolt FF) are .003"-.012" with .005"-.008" prefered. i couldn't get the next adjustment holes without going too tight so this one is going to stay .0065"-.008" for now.

i'll check it again when i change the oil after break-in.

i just ordered the Detroit Locker for the D60, so i've another to tackle
 
the specs for this diff (14 bolt FF) are .003"-.012" with .005"-.008" prefered. i couldn't get the next adjustment holes without going too tight so this one is going to stay .0065"-.008" for now.

i'll check it again when i change the oil after break-in.

i just ordered the Detroit Locker for the D60, so i've another to tackle

You feel accomplished as heck right now don't ya? And you'll kick yourself for never trying it sooner. Its a skill that a lot more people could do but so many quit before trying.
 
i'm a machinist in a locomotive diesel shop so i'm not afraid to tackle projects like this, but at 51 years old, this is the first time i've done it. i have a couple of books and the online 'bibles' for reference.

but the D60 looks like it will be a little more difficult. this one is from Craigs List and was supposedly rebuilt. the axle tube numbers say it was a '84-'87 CUCV axle with 4.56 gears, but it currently has 4.10 gears, so it was gone through at least once.
 
i'm a machinist in a locomotive diesel shop so i'm not afraid to tackle projects like this, but at 51 years old, this is the first time i've done this. i have a couple of books and the online 'bibles' for reference.

but the D60 looks like it will be a little more difficult. this one is from Craigs List and was supposedly rebuilt. the axle tube numbers say it was a '84-'87 CUCV axle with 4.56 gears, but it currently has 4.10 gears, so it was gone through at least once.

Geez way to finally do it lol kidding. I'm only 25 and I learned about 5 or 6 years ago how to. For years I was like why did I was I so long to try. Make sure you measure all the shims. I normally will out the factory shims on the carrier and try/re install it and check the b/l. Sometimes you get lucky, but even from there you just loosen or tight the b/l. I take the number of each shim, subtract from one and add to the other, to keep the preload the same.
 
i'm a machinist in a locomotive diesel shop so i'm not afraid to tackle projects like this, but at 51 years old, this is the first time i've done it. i have a couple of books and the online 'bibles' for reference.

but the D60 looks like it will be a little more difficult. this one is from Craigs List and was supposedly rebuilt. the axle tube numbers say it was a '84-'87 CUCV axle with 4.56 gears, but it currently has 4.10 gears, so it was gone through at least once.

Be careful pulling your old bearings off on the 60, make some setup bearings. Your life will be easier
 
Geez way to finally do it lol kidding. I'm only 25 and I learned about 5 or 6 years ago how to. For years I was like why did I was I so long to try. Make sure you measure all the shims. I normally will out the factory shims on the carrier and try/re install it and check the b/l. Sometimes you get lucky, but even from there you just loosen or tight the b/l. I take the number of each shim, subtract from one and add to the other, to keep the preload the same.


i was wondering if i would be able to just mess with the carrier bearings and leave the pinion alone for the detroit locker install. seems plausible.

i'll also be making the setup bearings first thing.
 
If you're just putting in a new carrier(Detroit) then you will not have to mess with the pinion. You just have to get the backlash correct on the ring gear and you're good to go.
 
4.10s. this is for a diesel Suburban, so i don't wanna go too low, even though it has the 4L80E overdrive trans.
 
I'm surprised you didn't go with 3.73s. Still going to be turning at least 1800-2000 going down the freeway at 70 mph.
 

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