gears doubler what to do

[blazinzuk]

Okay heres the deal I may be getting some money, I should pay bills with it, but I am paying bills with everything else I have so I might play with this money some

Do I, get a doubler, or 5.38 gears. My rig is a 350/350/203 right now, I have the 32 spline 205 I can build crossmembers etc. I run 39.5s right now with 4.56s. Truck does pretty good except in the rocks where I often find myself revving against the converter.

I do plan to go to 42s sometime so bear that in mind and what ever I do now the other will come later,

So doubler or gears

 

[4X4HIGH]

Well assuming you can set-up gears yourself they would be the cheaper of your options. The doubler will cost you about $1000.00 by the time you buy a kit and shifters. Gears will run you closer to $600.00 with install kits depending on where you buy.

 

[rdn2blazer]

Where's the "both" option.

 

[blazinzuk]

Where's the "both" option.

I believe that is with the check you are sending me to do both

And yes I can set up gears I can also get them pretty cheap, I can do gears for about 550 with install kits.

I just want to make sure that a doubler will help me more cause its gonna be an uphill battle to get one. We haven't spent much money on the house and my wife wants carpet and some other flooring.

 

[muddermilitia]

I say go with the doubler. It will only be a little bit more than the gears, especially If you make your own shifters. The doubler is going to have a greater impact as far as gearing goes. Also keep in mind that drive-shafts will have to be lengthened/shortened.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

You didn't say what gears you have now, but changing them to 5.38 won't impact your crawl ratio near as much as changing the t-case gearing.

I voted for the doubler (or other t-case gearing) option. More change for your $$ and it removes the 203 as a weak point.

 

[muddermilitia]

You didn't say what gears you have now, but changing them to 5.38 won't impact your crawl ratio near as much as changing the t-case gearing.

I voted for the doubler (or other t-case gearing) option. More change for your $$ and it removes the 203 as a weak point.

He said 4.56

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

He said 4.56

5.38/4.56 = 1.18 or an 18% difference

For a 203/205 doubler (~4/2) or roughly a 100% difference in gear reduction

You'll notice the different gear ratio but the doubler will be night and day.

 

[6.2Blazer]

5.38/4.56 = 1.18 or an 18% difference

For a 203/205 doubler (~4/2) or roughly a 100% difference in gear reduction

You'll notice the different gear ratio but the doubler will be night and day.

I agree.

 

[Chaddy]

I would get the doubler and keep the bigger ring gears.

 

[pvfjr]

Yep, 4.56's are fine. Go any farther and you start to lose pinion size, and strength. You'll notice a doubler a lot more, and in hi-range you might suck just a little less gas on the highway with 4.56.

 

[Stephen]

Doubler gets you 45:1 low gear (without convertor factored in) and leaves you cruising on the hwy at about 2600rpm at 65.

5.38's get you 27:1 in low gear and 3100rpm at 65.

what was the question again?

Also, if you have the 203 in the truck already, the same rear driveshaft will bolt to the 205 after the Doubler, the system is the same length as the 203 by itself. The front shaft will have to be stretched about 3" but if it's factory based, a lot of them are 2" x .120 wall and you can cut it and slide a piece of 1.75" tube in there and weld it back up for a good (at least for front use) fix.

 

[blazinzuk]

See thats why I love you guys, I was trying to convince myself that spending the least amount of money would be good, but obviously I was wrong. I am just trying to help myself justify the cost, to myself and my wife.

BTW I love the 4.56 gears with the 40s they work really well.