Gears or Doubler???

[ezoliver]

I am swaying back and forth on what way to go. I was planning on sticking with 4.10 gears and 37's this summer, BUT... I found some 40's for about what I can buy the 37's for so I was thinking about getting the 40's instead. (TH350/205/D60/14FF, so no overdrive) (Gooyear MT/R's tires by the way)

So my question is where to spend the money if I choose 40's - doubler or gears? I would like to decide so I can buy my lockers....

OR should I just go with 37's for now? and will the 4.10's work OK with 37's? I would like to keep it somewhat streetable because I will be driving it to the trails (and Moab) - not a daily driver but weekend driver...

Any suggestions welcome!!!

 

[BILTIT]

I run 4.10's with 36's and its not enough gear (or not enough motor, whicever way you look at it). I would say upgrade the gear first as you will need to for both tires. Do you really need a doubler? I will be running 4.56's with 36-38's which is still borderline in my mind unless you have alot of motor.

 

[Greg72]

If you're not planning to swap in an O.D. tranny, I'd keep those 4.10s... it will help your highway RPMs.

Gear as deep as you need to in the xfercase... either a JB Conversions 205 (3:1) Doubler (4:1), or STaK or Atlas (5.44:1)

Axle gears alone won't get you a great crawl ratio anyway.... build the reduction in the transfercase (where it belongs, IMHO)

 

[nvrenuf]

If you're not planning to swap in an O.D. tranny, I'd keep those 4.10s... it will help your highway RPMs.

Gear as deep as you need to in the xfercase... either a JB Conversions 205 (3:1) Doubler (4:1), or STaK or Atlas (5.44:1)

Axle gears alone won't get you a great crawl ratio anyway.... build the reduction in the transfercase (where it belongs, IMHO)

+1

 

[MTMike]

If you're not planning to swap in an O.D. tranny, I'd keep those 4.10s... it will help your highway RPMs.

Gear as deep as you need to in the xfercase... either a JB Conversions 205 (3:1) Doubler (4:1), or STaK or Atlas (5.44:1)

Axle gears alone won't get you a great crawl ratio anyway.... build the reduction in the transfercase (where it belongs, IMHO)

+2

 

[wayne]

4.10's and 37's suck. I've been running that combo for 5 years and even with a 241 t case compared to your 205 it still sucks. I would not do a doubler in your situation. I would do a Klune V and twin stick the 205. If you are going to regear and drive on the highway a lot then go to 4.56's with the 40's. If you can afford to just go to 40's and skip the 37's because you will always want more tire. I'm going to 5.13's in mine but it only will see the highway for about and hour or so at a shot. I am also planning to go to 40's sometime in the future. If you already have 4.10's, leave that go for now and get lockers and use the t case to get lower gearing.

 

[lq9blzr]

Hey man I have a ORD doubler and 40 inch Iroks with 5.13s. GO WITH THE DOUBLER. This is all hooked to a turbo 400. I can crawl alright but it could still be lower. Gear your axles down the road.

 

[gmc4cw]

the doubler will give you more total reduction for trail riding but the gears will give you more low end grunt on the street.

I had 4.56's a 700R4 and 35's. it was great on the street and the trail. if you do regear I think 4.56's would not be a big enough jump for 37's and especially not 40's. that leaves your options at 4.88, 5.13 and 5.38. as the old saying goes, GO BIG OR GO HOME!

so get yourself some 5.38's, lockers, a klune-V and a lomax kit for your 205.

 

[onetonbb74]

If I was in your situation, id get the 40's and regear to 4.88's.

 

[muddybuddy]

5.13s, doubler and 40's

 

[Greg72]

5.13s, doubler and 40's

.......and a tow rig, and a trailer.

Without an overdrive tranny, that combination will be ass.



EDIT: Just doublechecked the math (had the wrong tire size in CrawlCAD)....it's not as terrible as I first thought. I'll give it a single butt cheek now.

 

[muddybuddy]

.......and a tow rig, and a trailer.

Without an overdrive tranny, that combination will be ass.



EDIT: Just doublechecked the math (had the wrong tire size in CrawlCAD)....it's not as terrible as I first thought. I'll give it a single butt cheek now.

4.88s would probably be best w/o a OD tranny. id suggest 4.56, but thats not enough change to really warrant the expense of swapping gears so id say 4.88s or 5.13s. if gearing ends up being to deep, run bigger tires

 

[nvrenuf]

EDIT: Just doublechecked the math (had the wrong tire size in CrawlCAD)....it's not as terrible as I first thought. I'll give it a single butt cheek now.

crawlcad???

 

[Hossbaby50]

Get a big tranny cooler and add a black box or Klune V between the TH350/205. Twinstick the 205 and deal with it being a dog on the street. With the Klune or BB you will have plenty of crawl offroad.

The Klune or BB is a better option IMO then a doubler because you get more lowrange choice. They won't cost that much more then a doubler when all is said and done either.

Harley

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The Klune or BB is a better option IMO then a doubler because you get more lowrange choice. They won't cost that much more then a doubler when all is said and done either.

Harley

Ummm, I disagree.

The black box is $1600 (and a direct bolt in, I believe).

The Klune is even more ($1700+)

The 203/205 doubler kit costs ~$700 and all he would need is a 27 spline NP203 (which are very easy to find, usually worth anywhere from $0-50).

Sure, you're stuck with 2:1 or 4:1 rather than 2:1, 2.7:1 or 5.4:1 but nobody I know that has a doubler ever uses 2:1 anyway. Its pretty much 4:1 for crawling and 1:1 for higher speed stuff.

 

[Hossbaby50]

My bad, I thought I remembered the price on one of them being lower around the $1200-1300 area. Still I think it is a better option for all around use. It gives you a lower lowrange and the ability to have more mild gears ratios to choose from.

I know plenty of people that use 2:1 all the time in there doublers. Most all the AZ guys spend alot of the time in 2:1 for moving between obsticles where 4:1 isn't necessary. The spend alot of time in 2-low alot too to make it easier to steer in the washes between obsticles.

Hell I envy the doubler guys since I only have a 208 and I only get high or lowrange. I would love to have a lower low and a mild gear around 2:1 to play in. 2:1 makes a mild SBC act alot less mild for the drag racing in the sand and stuff like that.

Harley

 

[muddybuddy]

the blackbox was $1299 when it first came on the market, but that was just the introductory price.

personally, id keep my eyes pealed for a secondhand doubler, people sell them all the time on pirate, and u can usually get the complete doubler still bolted up to a tranny (either th350 or th400) for $1000-$1100.

 

[lq9blzr]

bang for the buck

I got to agree with Hossbaby50. I use my 2:1 all the time. At the dunes its the only way to go. My previous carb motor was a edlebrock e tec spec motor that was good for about 6600 rpm. 4:1 was to low. No wheel speed, same thing goes if you have a long mud pit to shoot. I got my doubler from some poor guy who could not make it fit in his project. Oh yeah, that was with a turbo 400 for 1000 dollars. I bet you find something similar with a little effort. But hey if you'r a baller go drop some coin on a atlas with the reduction box.

 

[wayne]

The 203/205 doubler kit costs ~$700 and all he would need is a 27 spline NP203 (which are very easy to find, usually worth anywhere from $0-50).

Doubler kit from ORD= $770
He will also need to convert his 205 to 32 spline input or get a 32 spline input 205. Conversion kit= $190
203 case= Figure $100 unless he finds a good deal.
Shifters= $185 to $289 depending on what he wants.
Crossmembers= $?????
Driveshaft mods= $?????

All said and done you have about $1500 or so in a 3.94:1 set up. Add a little more to that and have 5.4:1. I drove a rig with a Doubler and was not as impressed as I thought I would be. Another thing I don't like about the Doubler is the weight.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Doubler kit from ORD= $770

NWF doubler kit is $700, there are cheaper kits than that too

He will also need to convert his 205 to 32 spline input or get a 32 spline input 205. Conversion kit= $190

He doesn't need to convert to 32 spline, the 27 spline stuff works just fine.

Shifters= $185 to $289 depending on what he wants.

He'll need that regardless of the t-case option he chooses.

Crossmembers= $?????

True

Driveshaft mods= $?????

Also true but you'd probably have to do that with the black box or klune anyway.