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General Brake Job - Tips

dhcomp

dhcomp

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Ok, so i am getting ready to do front/rear pads/shoes on teh burb.

I have done a brake job or 2 on the IFS blazer, but only fronts.

What do i need to know specifically? Any special tools? I know the IFS ones needed that 3/8" alen socket to remove the caliper bolts.

I always seem to mess somethign up when i need to compress the calipers to fit over the rotors. What is the correct process on a 10 bolt front? Remove brake resovoir cap, remove some fluid, then slowly compress the caliper piston with a c clamp? Is there a better way to do it?

Also, rears. I've never attacked drum brakes, and am a little intimidated. Any comments?

Thanks guys! Need to get the burb up to par before boat-towing season hits!
 
you dont really need to remove fluid. those resouvour are so big i never have them leak unless yours if filled to the top. even then i just put a rag under it. you do need that Allen key for the front of the 10 bolts. the fronts are very easy. just take the two allen bolts off and pry it off with a big screwdriver. now getting the rotors off you have to tear out all the bearings

for pressing the caliper i usually just use a c clamp with a old brake pad over the caliper. and do like a half twist at a time. twist it wait a second. then do it again. if it wont go back in after twisting really hard you probably need new calipers.


the back brakes i always hated to do too. best way to do it is jack the back up. take both tires and both drums off but only tear one side apart, that way you can go back to the other side just like copying a puzzle. i still do that ocaisonally. they really aint that bad. also to get the springs back on i usually use vise grips if you dont have the proper brake tool.
 
OK, sounds good, thats about what i was going to do.

I've done some of this before, like i said, i am just nervous because the brakes have been AWESOME on this truck since i got it. I am afraid they aren't gonna be setup as well when i do it. Guess i'll figure it out! Its a CA truck, but the rears are down to 20 or 30%. Will i have issues breaking the adjusters loose? Any suggestions on adjustment?
 
Compressing the calipers is easy with the right tool.

Keep the old pad in, as there's no reason to chunk up the new one, and use one of these

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=288

24400L.GIF


For the drums, I say do one side at a time. Take both drums off, but only take one side apart at a time. This way when -- and I don't mean IF, I mean WHEN -- the hardware outsmarts you, you can go 'round to the other side of the truck to look at how it's supposed to be =))

There are specialized drum tools, but I've had just the same luck with a big flathead screwdriver and a couple sizes of pliers.

I'd spray the adjusters down with WD40, or something stronger (penetrating oil) if they're at all stuck now. Be sure to keep the new shoes clear when you douse them :D

Other than that, pads/shoes are the easy part, no bleeding required.

-- A
 
When taking the calipers off I usually stick a screw driver between the back of the old pad and the caliper piston and pry the piston back. It def helps to remove the caliper if the pad has grooved the rotor and there is no need to use a c-clamp.
 
This from the guy that never does his own brake work.:wink1:

Seriously though, there's really nothing too difficult about the drums. The best advice anyone gave me was to lay everything down (springs, clips, etc.) on the ground in the same configuration it was on the hub. Definitely x2 on leaving one side assembled to check your work.

While you're in there, don't forget to check the wheel cylinders for leaks and such. You can get rebuild kits from o'reilly's for 5 bucks or so.
 
cdoggwsu said:
This from the guy that never does his own brake work.:wink1:

Seriously though, there's really nothing too difficult about the drums. The best advice anyone gave me was to lay everything down (springs, clips, etc.) on the ground in the same configuration it was on the hub. Definitely x2 on leaving one side assembled to check your work.

While you're in there, don't forget to check the wheel cylinders for leaks and such. You can get rebuild kits from o'reilly's for 5 bucks or so.
Click to expand...

But if theres leaks......im into hydrolics and its getting dropped off at the shop ;)

I gotta buy a power/pressure bleeder and have someone walk me through it sometime that i have time......im getting kinda tired of staying away from it...but it doesn't make sense time/money wise to do it myself yet :doah:
 
If you want to do the job right. You really should get the rotors and drums turned. Espically if you tow.
Any brake shop will turn them for you. Doesn't cost much. It is a good time to inspect the brake line hoses too. If they are cracked and hard they should be replaced. The brakes will work a lot better.
You really should bleed and flush the system if you are going to all the trouble to do a brake job. it is a very simple process.
 
I do tow, but when is say tow, its a boat that MAYBE weights 4000lbs. So nothing very heavy.

Good call on the hoses, i agree. Good excuse to buy some stainless braided lines.....

Or decide they look good enough until i break down and put a 3" lift on it, and will need longer ones anyways
Thanks!
 
dhcomp said:
But if theres leaks......im into hydrolics and its getting dropped off at the shop ;)

I gotta buy a power/pressure bleeder and have someone walk me through it sometime that i have time......im getting kinda tired of staying away from it...but it doesn't make sense time/money wise to do it myself yet :doah:
Click to expand...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92924

^^^That was quite possibly the best 25 bucks I ever spent on a tool. I use it for the brakes on all of my vehicles, draining ps pump reserviors, bench bleed master cylinders, etc. It works fine on my crappy little 5 gal. pancake compressor.

If you don't have air you can always use a Mityvac
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38053


The wheel cylinder rebuild consists of a spring, two retainers and a seal on both ends. No reason to pay a shop to do 15 mins of work.
wk423-1.jpg
 
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you meantioned about the adjusters. thats another thing that is always rusted and not working when i do a break job. just disasemble them. wire brush the threads and grease them.

also another tip if your trying to get the front calipers bolts off and it seems like your going to strip the hole. leave the allen wrench in there and then put a small pipe wrench on the outside of it and twist both at the same time
 
I'm sure this goes without saying and not so much a brake job tip but more a tip in general. Don't get brake fluid on your paint! That is if you care about the paint. It will eat right through it if left on.
 
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