ciffer
1/2 ton status
the ball joints are worn on my suburban, i plan to replace them in the next month or two. what else should i replace at the same time? tierod, draglink and brake pads are new, everything else is original to my knowledge.
CK5
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getting ready to do ball joints
- Thread starter ciffer
- Start date
shaun89
1/2 ton status
id do everything from the balljoint out if you have the money. axle shaft u joints,wheel bearings...umm, check the rotors, calipers....i cant think of anything else. but checking the drag link and tierod is good too.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
i checked the rotors and calipers when i did the pads, all are good. draglink has 5k on it, tierod has 2k, i have kept them both well greased.
Be sure you have one of these sockets before you get started. This socket is needed to set upper ball joint preload. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1630&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
ciffer
1/2 ton status
are ball joints pretty easy on these trucks? any special tools needed beside the socket 4x4high mentioned and a ball joint press?
Ball joint press or a way of pressing them and the spanner socket is really all you'll need. I'm assuming you have the standard stuff to remove your spindles (spindle socket). You will obviously need a torque wrench of the proper value.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
not sure if i have a spindle socket or not. is a spanner socket what you mentioned earlier?
i am pretty well set as far as standard tools go, as well as torque wrenches.
i am pretty well set as far as standard tools go, as well as torque wrenches.
Yes, the pic i posted is a spanner socket for the upper ball joint preload. The spindle nut socket is for removing the rotor/hub assembly.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
could you give me a link to the spindle socket for these trucks?
oneofthefewbmx
1/2 ton status
http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/cPath/1785_577/products_id/6842
they also sell this at oreill'ys and autozone for like 10 bucks which is cheaper than the website above (but with gas prices it may be cheaper to just order it
)....anyway...
make sure to torque the spindle nuts correctly:
Torque the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub. Back off and retighten to 35 ft. lbs.
Back off adjust nut 3/8 max. turn.
Install the (drag sleeve) washer. Tang on the inside of the washer into the slot in the spindle, and any hole in the washer slips over the pin in the adjuster. Adjust if needed in the clockwise direction (slightly).
Install the lock nut and torque to 160 ft. lbs. End play should be .001-.010.
they also sell this at oreill'ys and autozone for like 10 bucks which is cheaper than the website above (but with gas prices it may be cheaper to just order it
)....anyway...make sure to torque the spindle nuts correctly:
Torque the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub. Back off and retighten to 35 ft. lbs.
Back off adjust nut 3/8 max. turn.
Install the (drag sleeve) washer. Tang on the inside of the washer into the slot in the spindle, and any hole in the washer slips over the pin in the adjuster. Adjust if needed in the clockwise direction (slightly).
Install the lock nut and torque to 160 ft. lbs. End play should be .001-.010.
Wasatch K5
1/2 ton status
ciffer,
I changed the ball joints on my front axle last week, so it's still pretty fresh in my mind.
I would not change the u-joints, axle shafts or wheel bearings unless they needed it. I would, however repack the wheel bearings and in so doing you'll have to replace the wheel hub seal.
Technique wise: Remove the steering arm on the left side before working on the left side ball joints.
I removed the lower ball joint nut and the upper ball joint nut which I then reinstalled upside down (so the castellated side is down) and would provide a bigger surface to smack. I used an 8 lb sledge hammer to strike that ball joint nut sharply and after two or three whacks they were loose.
I bought one of those ball joint preload sockets on line for about $16.00 shipped. I also recommend the Harbor Freight Ball Joint and U-joint press. They're about $35.00 or so. Use a 1/2" impact wrench with that and it'll do a nice job of removing the old ball joints and installing the new ones.
I opted for OEM ball joints, they were about $100.00 for the four, but I think they're worth it. Ball joints are not a particularly fun job and dealerships and other shops charge big bucks for this. I wanted quality parts that will last a long time as opposed to some cheap crap from China.
Doing it yourself, even after buying the special tools, your savings will be in the hundreds of dollars.
I changed the ball joints on my front axle last week, so it's still pretty fresh in my mind.
I would not change the u-joints, axle shafts or wheel bearings unless they needed it. I would, however repack the wheel bearings and in so doing you'll have to replace the wheel hub seal.
Technique wise: Remove the steering arm on the left side before working on the left side ball joints.
I removed the lower ball joint nut and the upper ball joint nut which I then reinstalled upside down (so the castellated side is down) and would provide a bigger surface to smack. I used an 8 lb sledge hammer to strike that ball joint nut sharply and after two or three whacks they were loose.
I bought one of those ball joint preload sockets on line for about $16.00 shipped. I also recommend the Harbor Freight Ball Joint and U-joint press. They're about $35.00 or so. Use a 1/2" impact wrench with that and it'll do a nice job of removing the old ball joints and installing the new ones.
I opted for OEM ball joints, they were about $100.00 for the four, but I think they're worth it. Ball joints are not a particularly fun job and dealerships and other shops charge big bucks for this. I wanted quality parts that will last a long time as opposed to some cheap crap from China.
Doing it yourself, even after buying the special tools, your savings will be in the hundreds of dollars.
shaun89
1/2 ton status
you can find one of those sockets at napa or any auto store real easy. o ya, you need some snap ring pliers or just a tiny flat head and a hammer to get the clips off the balljoints before pressing them out. if you have a friend with a press that helps a lot too.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
wow, lots of great info.
i am planning to use the Moog ball joints, rockauto.com has all 4 for $100. main reason i want those is because the upper joint has a grease zerk in an eccentric location so the joint can be greased easily. i wouldn't doubt if my ball joints have failed due to lack of lubrication by the previous owner, he is not good with that sort of thing.
i am planning to use the Moog ball joints, rockauto.com has all 4 for $100. main reason i want those is because the upper joint has a grease zerk in an eccentric location so the joint can be greased easily. i wouldn't doubt if my ball joints have failed due to lack of lubrication by the previous owner, he is not good with that sort of thing.
Which wheel hub seal is this, specifically?
Also, 9/16" steering stud nuts. Coarse or fine thread? I am buying new ones.
RaysJimmy
1/2 ton status
9/16" x 18 Thread for the studs. There really is only one seal for the wheel hub.
Ok, but i have never taken this setup apart, and want to get the correct seal before hand. Really, im not even sure where there are bearings vs. seals in this setup. I am thinking seal at end of axle tube, bearing between hub/spindle. What seal is he talking about needing to replace when packing bearings?
jonathon
1/2 ton status
I'll dig up the napa part number when I get home.. I have a full set sitting on my computer desk, waiting for when I do them again on the front of my burb.
I want to know where jor got that spindle nut socket..
I want to know where jor got that spindle nut socket..
Kragen carries and rents the spindle nut socket. Reasonable price to buy too, want to say 15-30$.
Just ordered the spanner nut socket at Napa for $26
Guess thats the price you pay to be prepared.
Just ordered the spanner nut socket at Napa for $26
Guess thats the price you pay to be prepared.
