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(Getting shafted by a) 14bsf build

***Before I start, yes, I could easily make a retaining piece for the calipers and have already had a piece drawn up in case I decide to do so.***

So yes, I do understand all of the concern surrounding the bracketry which is very clearly there to locate the caliper. The slide pins are there for the caliper to ride on, and the bracket locates the caliper forwards and backwards. Simple enough. They are not designed by GM to be used the way my brackets have them mounted.

I designed my brackets off of these:
4x4blaze said:
After some research I found this kit:

cunninghammachine.com

Single Caliper Disc Brake Adapter 14 Bolt Semi Float 6 Lug Rear

Aftermarket truck parts
cunninghammachine.com cunninghammachine.com
Click to expand...

I had purchased a kit from Cunningham Machine, realized my axle was the narrower variant, purchased the later 08-18(?) Vortec max axle which has a completely different style brake mounting piece, therefore making the brackets I had purchased useless.

So therefore, I had designed my own bracket to work with my own axle that utilized there basic design and parts list.

According to all of the kits this company has sold, they have had 0 issues with this design. They even have a dual caliper model designed to be used as a drift brake. Is the caliper being used the way GM intended for them to be used? No. Has it worked slowing a truck down from 150mph in a relatively short distance repeatedly for the last 10 years when these were originally designed? Yes. Have many other people installed these kits on there vehicles without issue? Yes. Did I base my kit off of an apparently tried and true kit? Yes.

Are the slide pins capable of allowing the caliper to slide 1/64th of an inch while also stopping the vehicle without shearing off? According to many other vehicles using this kit, Yes.

Ive already made one CK5'er upset and I would rather not make any more of you upset! I have simply based my kit off of their kit. If they would've made brackets for my axle, I would've just purchased them instead of making them. I do believe the stoppers are a good idea. But.....

Apparently these calipers will work just fine without them according to the original designer and seller.

:weapon10:
 
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4x4blaze said:
***Before I start, yes, I could easily make a retaining piece for the calipers and have already had a piece drawn up in case I decide to do so.***

So yes, I do understand all of the concern surrounding the bracketry which is very clearly there to locate the caliper. The slide pins are there for the caliper to ride on, and the bracket locates the caliper forwards and backwards. Simple enough. They are not designed by GM to be used the way my brackets have them mounted.

I designed my brackets off of these:


I had purchased a kit from Cunningham Machine, realized my axle was the narrower variant, purchased the later 08-18(?) Vortec max axle which has a completely different style brake mounting piece, therefore making the brackets I had purchased useless.

So therefore, I had designed my own bracket to work with my own axle that utilized there basic design and parts list.

According to all of the kits this company has sold, they have had 0 issues with this design. They even have a dual caliper model designed to be used as a drift brake. Is the caliper being used the way GM intended for them to be used? No. Has it worked slowing a truck down from 150mph in a relatively short distance repeatedly for the last 10 years when these were originally designed? Yes. Have many other people installed these kits on there vehicles without issue? Yes. Did I base my kit off of an apparently tried and true kit? Yes.

Are the slide pins capable of allowing the caliper to slide 1/64th of an inch while also stopping the vehicle without shearing off? According to many other vehicles using this kit, Yes.

Ive already made one CK5'er upset and I would rather not make any more of you upset! I have simply based my kit off of there kit. If they would've made brackets for my axle, I would've just purchased them instead of making them. I do believe the stoppers are a good idea. But.....

Apparently these calipers will work just fine without them according to the original designer and seller.

:weapon10:
Click to expand...
And that's all great.
We usually here give our thoughts and it's up to the poster to take any of it consideration or not, and I don't think any of us here will get upset with you for doing what you want.
It's your truck after all.
You might get an "I told you so" if it turns out we were right just to tease you afterwards but you will rarely see any hurt feelings.
I have been here more than 20 years giving and taking advice and I will keep doing so.
As for making things work not necessarily the way they were designed, I have been the king of that. I have repurposed so many things to do what I need, I have also put back my truck together with ratchet straps and bailing wire and drove it for a week.
But I eventually refine the design with every comment I find or get until I get the best and safest thing.
Good luck with your truck and hopefully the worst thing you get will be uneven brake pads wear
 
Absolutely! I'm just simply stating that there have not been any reported issues of any type coming from anyone who has purchased or used them previously.

But obviously, the comments here made me rethink my own bracket and came up with an additional piece.

Something like this:
Screenshot_20240111_131630_Snapchat.jpg

I am a perfectionist with anything I do (why everything takes me so long), so since that is a concern I will probably address it. I want it to be right.
 
I was fortunate enough to have been able to work at a honest true Speed Shop that catered to mostly Pro Mod and down drag racers and got to know the vendors and wholesalers very well.
That being said I’ll say this - there is a difference between parts designed for only track usage and parts made for the street with D.O.T. approval. Heavy duty , continuous duty and race duty applications are all built by different standards and packages being offered by the aftermarket.

Racing parts are built strong enough to get the job done and at a minimalist thought process for things like weight savings and such - they have no concern how long they need to last ( other than to get to the next round ).

Be that perfectionist and follow through since , as you stated, it’s not a problem to add the tabs and won’t negatively affect your application.
 
tarussell said:
I was fortunate enough to have been able to work at a honest true Speed Shop that catered to mostly Pro Mod and down drag racers and got to know the vendors and wholesalers very well.
That being said I’ll say this - there is a difference between parts designed for only track usage and parts made for the street with D.O.T. approval. Heavy duty , continuous duty and race duty applications are all built by different standards and packages being offered by the aftermarket.

Racing parts are built strong enough to get the job done and at a minimalist thought process for things like weight savings and such - they have no concern how long they need to last ( other than to get to the next round ).

Be that perfectionist and follow through since , as you stated, it’s not a problem to add the tabs and won’t negatively affect your application.
Click to expand...
I was going to bring that up earlier but I believe some of our concerns have been heard and he is adjusting the design to help.
His new approach will eliminate one of my concerns, the shifting of the calipers and binding on the bolts that need to be sliders and even possibly shearing the bolts.
It still doesn't have the depth to keep things square but worst-case it might have uneven wear which even normal car parts do occasionally under abuse
 
I know of a rear disc brake kit that has been installed on a 14bff, and the owner can not get it to stop squealing. I am going to check to see if the caliper tabs were left off the aftermarket brackets.
If so this is probably the cause of the squeal. As the caliper would be allowed to move much more.
Another thing bigger tires create much more leverage, the pins might work on small tires, but they will have a limit. A few 3/8 fine threads in an alloy steel would be all that is between ok and catastrophic brake failure.
 
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Axle is in, Wilwood master is in! Have been driving it regularly but still following the break in procedure for the new ring and pinion.

Overall I'm extremely pleased with the finished product! 3.73's feel great, and the brakes are insanely good for a 4wd truck. Still not quite up to par with my C6, but oh well...:whistle2::biggrin:

Have done numerous "panic" stops and I'm amazed at how well it really is! I think it's gonna work!:wink:


1000007723.jpg
 
@4x4blaze my first k10 i built with hydroboost swap and 1ton axles and rear disk swap would stop on a dime and give 8 cents change back rolling 38" TSL swampers . . there is nothing like brakes that work but when needed will give you whip lash .
 
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