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Glow Plug Button question

4

4x4dreamer

1/2 ton status
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Jul 8, 2002
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Location
St. Petersburg, FL
The PO on my truck swapped out the automatic glow plug controller and put in a manual button. Not too long ago, I could bring my 'plugs to life. So I did the cheap thing first and swapped out te button with a starter button I found a Wal-Mart. It had twice the size and seemed pretty heavy duty, so I figured it would replace the cheapo button that was in there when I got the truck.
The new button worked great, but then I started getting whiffs of burnt marshmallows. A few weeks later, smoke coming out of the dash. I pulled it out tonite, and it's coming from the button itself.
My question is, what should I be using for a button. Obviously a starter button isn't going to cut it.
thank you in advance.
 
I use any old button with a relay.
Use a good 30A relay or better use a starter relay.
 
This button had a big old relay on it...but the sucker kept smoking. could be it was a bad one. I'm gonna go find the biggest, baddest button I can. I'd like to get a switch, but I know I'd leave that sucker on.
 
Bad news is, I was putting everything back together, somehow, despite the fact that everything was wrapped in Electrical tape, it grounded out agains the lower dash panel. Sparks and Fire, and it welded itself to the dash. Breaking it loose broke on of the terminals off the button...so I have to replace that anyway.

Where is this relay located approximatley.
 
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This button had a big old relay on it...but the sucker kept smoking

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I thought that was the relay you were talking about.
To start fresh:
Get a decent relay, and any new button, place the relay the closest you can to the power source, and use thick wires, and wire the button anywhere you want.
If you need help with schematics let me know, but usually the relays come with a diagram of how to wire them.
 
I used the stock relay, just wired a little momentary switch from radio shack to it. If I remember right, the stock relay works by grounding it. In other words, install the switch, run one wire to ground on the dash, run the other wire to the relay. The when you press the button, you are grounding the relay. I'm fuzzy on it as I did it about 7 years ago, haven't had a single glowplug related problem since. I do remember being bumfuzzeled when applying 12v positive didn't do anything.
 
Alot of times the controler isn't even bad. There is a diode inside the alternater that goes bad, and aplies voltage to the controler all the time (telling your controler your engine is warm.) Just check the brown wire at your alterater with the engine off. There should not be anything there. Also a bad diode in your altenater will make your radiator go bad fast! I would not use a manual switch without the resistors that Chevy runs in series with them. They help to "cushen" the glow plugs.
 
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Also a bad diode in your altenater will make your radiator go bad fast!

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/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I'm also confused on the radiator thing????? I can understand the diode causing the controller to go bad, but thr radiator /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. Elaborate please.
 
I was a Chevy wrench for alot of years. Worked on alot of diesels in that time. Chevy would (early 80's,) put diesels in everything including citations, luv trucks, and chevetes. One thing that I noticed was when there was a premature radiator faliure, (always a leak from the core,) the delcotron was bad. It still put out voltage real good, but one or more of the diodes were bad. The guy at the radiator shop said that that was a common problem. It had to do with the eletrolite solution and the brass in the radiator. The fluid would always be nice and green, and sometimes I would even reuse it. It would "eat" small holes in the tank of the radiator.
 
I have the books, but don't have a scanner here. When a diesel outfit would come in with a cold start problem, (and it got COLD in Montana,) I would first check the battery connections and make sure they were good. Measure them with a voltmeter. Alittle bit of resistence at that voltage will make alot of difference! I would then electricly check the glow plugs individaly. (Made a special tool to pull out the bulged glow plugs.) I would check the controler last. Never had a problem. I would then go get a cup of coffee.
 
Re: Glow Plug Button question FIXED

Went and bought a 35 amp Switch. I looked at the button I got again and it was only 10 amps, so no wonder it burned up. I decided to go with a switch so I could turn it on when I got it, and turn it off after I got my seatbelt on. Works great!!! My idiot light still comes on in the dash so I know if it's on, and I'm really careful about checking it. I'm pretty happy. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif is back on the road and I'm stoked!!!

Thanks guys!!
 
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