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Gm 10 Bolt FF kit?

Kocher93

1/2 ton status
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I was told there was a FF kit for gm 10 bolts, is this true?
If so where could I buy one of these? My hour of google searching has failed to show me any results.
Also should I get this or a 14 bolt? I'm only going to be running 35s at the max.
 
Warn used to make one, but they're long since discontinued. They were also stupidly expensive.

In general, the 14 bolt is a great solution. They're cheap, plentiful, and with the right donor, basically a straight drop in.

You will have to switch to 8-lug wheels.

-- A
 
Is there anything I could get to beef up my 10 bolt? I don't want to fully commit to a new axle, After all the parts I think the price wouldn't be worth it, if I could make my 10 bolt a little stronger.
 
Eh, you're throwing bad money after good, or whatever that expression is.

If you get a 14BFF from a 3/4ton 4WD truck, the only extra part you'd need would be a conversion U-joint.

-- A
 
get one from a newer (90's)1/2 ton and you can keep the 6 bolts
 
I have seen more than one 10 bolt break with 35s, mostly with lockers though.

Like Shady said, 14b sf is 6 lug but requires changing bracketry
 
I have seen more than one 10 bolt break with 35s, mostly with lockers though.

Like Shady said, 14b sf is 6 lug but requires changing bracketry

Some 14 SF (semi-float) rear axles from the late-80's through 90's in the IFS trucks were 6-lug. These were found in some 1/2 tons with certain towing packages and the light duty 2500 trucks.
 
I've seen some decent six-lug 4140 (or is it 4340???) axles for the 14 bolt SF in the aftermarket sector, too... not too pricey for the piece of mind... I definately agree a 14 bolt SF or FF would be a huge improvement over the 10 bolt... there is substantial aftermarket support for the 10 1/2 inch FF which is the exact reason I decided to get one for my rig... that and the absence of a c-clip... good luck!
 
I wouldn't jump on the axle swapping bandwagon quite so fast...

The major question I'd ask is what's the plan for the truck? Street, dirt trails, sand/mud I wouldn't worry too much. Lockers and 35's on the rocks, well yeah, then I'd look into an axle swap.

I've wheeled the crap out of my poor little front 10b on BIG 35/15.5-15 TSL's (open diff) without any major breaks.
 
I do have a locker and ill be using it for trails and maybe a rock here or there. but im not gonna beat the **** outta it.
 
I bought my Blazer already built with a 350, SM465, NP 205, D44/Lock Right front, 12-bolt/ARB locker rear, 4.10s, and front/rear alloy shafts. I run 35" MTRs. Three trips to Moab and moderate to hard rock crawling in New Mexico and no broken axle shafts.

However, I am in the process of swaping to a D60, 14BFF, and a doubler. Some reasons for the swap: I don't want to worry about C-clip axle shafts any more, want to run larger tires, and do harder trails.

It all depends on how you want to wheel and how much $$$ you want to put into your truck. Half-ton axles can work, but you need to know their/your limitations.
 
There's several members on here who have wheeled fairly hard with 35's and 10 bolts. You have to learn to drive and some of the beefing helps immensely.

I've got 33's and don't wheel hard at all. I have no reason to upgrade to a bigger axle. Detroit's sitting on the work bench and it is a 30 spline axle already. If I want more I might get alloy shafts for it.
 
I got away from 10 bolts b/c they've left me stranded more than once... granted, I have a heavy foot but after going through 4 of them throughout the years (largest tires at the time were 35's) it was time to upgrade.

It ended up being cheaper for me just to build a set of 1 tons. I'm now running 38's with an estimated 400+ hp with no issues.

As stated before, it has a lot to do with your driving style / horsepower / open or closed diff / wheel size / driving terrain
 
ok ok ok so I see that 14 bolts are the way to go to get larger tires, after hard consideration I want to shoot for 37s, So I'll get a 14 bolt rear and then what should I get up front? Can I use the stock 10 bolt with an open diff? or will it break like glass? So to swap my axles I'll need a new drive shaft, change the shock mounts, and thats really it right? I've never really looked into doing this. This will all be down the road stuff too so I'll compile a list now and add as I go.
 
If you find a 3/4 14bff the only thing you need to swap it in place is a conversion u joint (Precision #447).

Martin
 
ok ok ok so I see that 14 bolts are the way to go to get larger tires, after hard consideration I want to shoot for 37s, So I'll get a 14 bolt rear and then what should I get up front? Can I use the stock 10 bolt with an open diff? or will it break like glass? So to swap my axles I'll need a new drive shaft, change the shock mounts, and thats really it right? I've never really looked into doing this. This will all be down the road stuff too so I'll compile a list now and add as I go.

Im running a 10bolt front welded with 37 boggers and wheel it pretty hard in rocks and whatever else and have only broken one axle in the past year. Now I carry spares and my rig is fairly light compared to a normal full size blazer and I have a wimpy 305 but plenty low gears.

The key to making a 10 bolt front survive is driving style. Wheel spin, hopping and full throttle assaults are bad news for a 10 bolt. For they type of wheeling you plan on doing I would say that you will be ok with it open and 37s, just watch your right foot.

As far as the rear goes, 14bff all the way. I havent owned one of these trucks that I didnt swap the rear out for a 14bff. even my street cruiser with 31s.
 
ok ok ok so I see that 14 bolts are the way to go to get larger tires, after hard consideration I want to shoot for 37s, So I'll get a 14 bolt rear and then what should I get up front? Can I use the stock 10 bolt with an open diff? or will it break like glass? So to swap my axles I'll need a new drive shaft, change the shock mounts, and thats really it right? I've never really looked into doing this. This will all be down the road stuff too so I'll compile a list now and add as I go.

Smart move going to the 14FF, the 10 bolt front is far from glass! I'd just leave it open and have spare parts handy if you wheel it hard or put much more than stock hp through it (especially with wheels larger than 35").
 
save the coin on front beef up parts and when you pop a shaft get a full set of aftermarket and good joints to go with them and it will be just fine on 35-37" tires.

mabye get the stockers modifyed to take full snap rings on the u-joint caps and get some non greaseable spicer joints for them .
 

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