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GM 14 Bolt U Bolt Eliminator Kit from Motobilt

MotoBilt

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U-BOLT ELIMINATOR KIT FOR 14 BOLT

The Motobilt u-bolt eliminator kit allows you to replace the 4 factory u-bolts with conventional bolts. The u-bolt eliminator kit was designed for serious rock crawlers that want the ultimate clearance underneath their vehicle. The kit is designed to work with 2.5" wide leaf springs found on vehicles like the Jeep YJ, XJ, and more. The u-bolt eliminator kit has 3 leaf center pin locations in the spring perch and top bolt plate which allows you to move the axle forward or reward in 1" increments. The top plate is made of 3/8" thick high strength steel plate bent on the ends for increased structural rigidity and eliminate sharp edges on the leaf spring. The 1/4" thick high strength steel plate spring perch has 3 sections to weld to your axle for superior strength. The Motobilt u-bolt eliminator kit is designed for axles with a tube diameter of 3.25" - 3.5" which fits well with the GM 14 bolt, Dana 70, and Sterling rear axles. Hardware not included as the thickness of leaf spring packs will vary depending on each setup. This kit is intended to be used with 5/8" grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts.The kit is shipped with two fabricated lower spring perches and two upper bolt plates.
 
Ok! Best way to cut old ones off since no plasma cutter?

I have sawzaw,cut off wheel,4.5 grinder and torches but axle and torches scare me little to be honest! Hate to screw up and make ass of myself !
 
Thanks man helped me out a ton on here along with long list of others!!!!!
 
I'm a bit lost here...if your bottom plates are fine why wouldn't you keep them? Even if you are moving them, is there a downside to reusing what's already there?

I'd think you'd just need to buy new top plates for this conversion. :dunno: :1zhelp:

@ktmoutfront @brans87.
 
I'm a bit lost here...if your bottom plates are fine why wouldn't you keep them? Even if you are moving them, is there a downside to reusing what's already there?

I'd think you'd just need to buy new top plates for this conversion. :dunno: :1zhelp:

@ktmoutfront @brans87.

His spring perches are bigger than normal giving space for nuts under the lip, you'd use regular bolts from the top plate down to the nuts. the end result is no leaf spring hardware on the underside of the axle to get hung up on stuff and for added clearance.
 
His spring perches are bigger than normal giving space for nuts under the lip, you'd use regular bolts from the top plate down to the nuts. the end result is no leaf spring hardware on the underside of the axle to get hung up on stuff and for added clearance.

I understand why the top would change. But I don't understand why you would weld a new perch onto the axle tube.

Here is how I did my u-bolt conversion. The factory perch was moved over to accommodate narrower spacing on my square-body. But there was nothing wrong with the perch, I just replaced the top plate.

20160828_203441-jpg.213279



I'm still missing something here.
 
This is a pic I robbed off of Google, it's not a Motobilt part (Sorry Mr. Dubose, if you have another pic tag me and I'll delete this post).

@campfire You can see the idea is to use true bolts instead of u-bolts.

ubolt.jpg
 
This is a pic I robbed off of Google, it's not a Motobilt part (Sorry Mr. Dubose, if you have another pic tag me and I'll delete this post).

@campfire You can see the idea is to use true bolts instead of u-bolts.

View attachment 252509

Eliminates the u bolts completely.


Ooooh. Now that is slick.

I originally read that as "convert the hideous square U-bolts to U-shaped U-bolts."

Thanks for spelling that out for me. :thumb:
 
Cool part... i guess your really scraping for axle clearance!! Id go with mog axles... just sayin.

Although nice to use bolts vs buying new u bolts...
 
That is his reason for doing this. And he has to rotate the axle so the old perches are coming off anyway.

Wade aka ktmoutfront summed it up damn good! Keep replacing u bolt for the lift then shims and now pinion is little to high so yes u bolts add up and real problem solver is to cut off stuff off and set axle where it need to be then weld these on to correctly make my drive line straight again.
 
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