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GM Intake manifold

TJ1978

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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Seems the original intake from my 69' c10. Numbers are from 1966-1969 GM
Is this something worth hanging onto?

what is the market value of this if any exists?

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The 184 intake was in fact the factory intake for 1969 vehicles, 350” engine. It is common to the cars as well

only legitimate reason to keep it is if a person running G/SA or H/SA in NHRA Stock Eliminator (Camaro) wants it, or a numbers match guru
 
Bent77 said:
The 184 intake was in fact the factory intake for 1969 vehicles, 350” engine. It is common to the cars as well

only legitimate reason to keep it is if a person running G/SA or H/SA in NHRA Stock Eliminator (Camaro) wants it, or a numbers match guru
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Or anyone trying to go non egr and doesn't want to buy aftermarket.
I had one of those sitting on a shelf.
Might still be there.
 
Meh. Aluminum ones are $40 all day long at the swap meet with an egr block off. They all run better than these.

we flow benched 14 of this exact number. They are all a turd
 
Bent77 said:
Meh. Aluminum ones are $40 all day long at the swap meet with an egr block off. They all run better than these.

we flow benched 14 of this exact number. They are all a turd
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I never pretended to know about this, I was always the cheap guy getting things done with available parts.
I know you were a racer so I wouldn't expect anything less :pimp:
 
I've got one sitting on a 307 at my dad's place, another in my garage.

Not that I need either as the 350 in my Nova and my spare 350 in my garage both have performer intakes on them.

I can't seem to get around to tossing the cast iron intakes. I don't know why.

If you currently have a 2bbl and one of these is the only thing you can fine it's ok to run. But if you expect performance move on.
 
Bent77 said:
Meh. Aluminum ones are $40 all day long at the swap meet with an egr block off. They all run better than these.

we flow benched 14 of this exact number. They are all a turd
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So you're saying that holding onto the one that was originally on my Dad's '72 C10 is not a good use of space?
I am stuck like @ZooMad75 , can't seem to toss it in scrap.
 
Surprisingly enough I just sold one at the swap meet last month for $50.00. The date code was exactly what the guy was looking for. Performance/weight wise I give them two thumbs down.
 
I think these sort of things are good craigslist fodder. Heck, even ebay if you sell it for enough and they pay shipping.

These will never be made again, so for that one person looking for the correct date code/casting, there is no option.

I hate tossing stuff I know is "irreplaceable" (even if worthless to most) but I think there is a window where this stuff will be worth money, and where it will be worthless. Being able to list for free and repetitively, with almost no effort, on ebay and craigslist makes that sort of thing a no brainer for me. Sold a few non-rare q-jets that way. I like matching something up with someone who needs it more than making money, the cost is really just my time and effort. Besides. I don't own anything worth serious money in any case. :haha:

Helps when you don't absolutely need the space they take up.
 
I might put this one on my burb.
I have the original 77 non egr cast iron on it now.
My only hesitation is adding aluminum into my cast iron, brass, only cooling system.

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Wes Harden said:
I might put this one on my burb.
I have the original 77 non egr cast iron on it now.
My only hesitation is adding aluminum into my cast iron, brass, only cooling system.

View attachment 383256
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I have always been a firm believer in putting studs instead of bolts on the thermostat housing and carb base. It makes for any water neck/thermostat/carb work in the future a lot less troublesome not having to worry about broken bolts.
 
Capt Ron said:
I have always been a firm believer in putting studs instead of bolts on the thermostat housing and carb base. It makes for any water neck/thermostat/carb work in the future a lot less troublesome not having to worry about broken bolts.
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I don't think bolts are his problem here :eek1:

What happened to the water neck @Wes Harden ?
 
Yeah that is in my brothers garage and he blocked the outlet with a golf ball and duct tape. why??? your guess is as good as mine. But it is an orphaned spread bore Edlebrock from the 80's and will work on my current gen 1 and qjet
 
Capt Ron said:
I have always been a firm believer in putting studs instead of bolts on the thermostat housing and carb base. It makes for any water neck/thermostat/carb work in the future a lot less troublesome not having to worry about broken bolts.
Click to expand...

I've not studied up on it (heck, hadn't even considered it) but would brass studs for the thermostat housing be ok? I see you can buy one foot of 3/8-16 brass threaded rod for like $5, would certainly help with corrosion if brass, aluminum and coolant play nice.

As to the mixture of metals, just change the coolant at the manufacturers recommended interval. I got twenty years out of the heater core without doing so. With modern coolant, changed at the correct interval, you'd probably be good forever.

Or, pay through the nose for evans' waterless coolant and Forget about it, just hope you never get a leak. $$$
 
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