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Going to look at a turbo set-up on Friday

79k20350 said:
im not a much of a turbo go but i understand the principles... when you say exhaust side, do you mean where the exhaust enters, or exits? if its where its enters it should reduce lag time (one would think) because you have a better flow...hmm...then again smaller might crete more exhaust backpressure making it spool the turbo faster... hmm...we need someone int he know to explain:rolleyes::crazy:

That is exactly how it is:
the smaller turbo exhaust volume requires less exhaust to pressurize thus spool faster.
Also the trick about triming the vane fins on the compressor side makes for less of a seal which makes less oposition on the exhaust side which makes it spool faster then the faster vanes can compensate for the lack of pressure at lower speed.
 
I say you need to put it on before you decide to get rid of it. its night and day difference, even when not towing. I wouldn't do without my turbo setup.
you should be able to get a rebuild kit for it. they're not real complicated.
 
Heat is what makes a turbo spool up, not neccessarely air flow. The more heat you put into the exhaust housing, the faster it will spool. That is why a larger housing slows spool, as more heat is able to escape. If you can get more fuel out of your 6.2 (more heat) than the larger housing may not be a bad idea.

If airflow is what made the turbo spool you'd make full boost with the trans in neutral and full RPM's, but instead you get a whopping single pound of boost. I get 1 pound at 3200RPM's.
 
Currently a paper weight and dust collector. I have other fish to fry at the moment so i haven't even looked at it since I bought it.

I will update when I do something with it, or if and when I find more info...but to be honest it'll probably be in the new year at the earliest.

Rene
 
rjfguitar said:
Heat is what makes a turbo spool up, not neccessarely air flow. The more heat you put into the exhaust housing, the faster it will spool. That is why a larger housing slows spool, as more heat is able to escape. If you can get more fuel out of your 6.2 (more heat) than the larger housing may not be a bad idea.

If airflow is what made the turbo spool you'd make full boost with the trans in neutral and full RPM's, but instead you get a whopping single pound of boost. I get 1 pound at 3200RPM's.

This is not quite as true as it once was. www.ststurbo.com/home does remote mounted turbos that are running on a much colder exhaust signal than normally seen with underhood turbos. With the remote mount they run a smaller hot side (physical) with an unspecified turbine. Because you can change the turbine wheel and that changes it's vanes while still using the same housing you can speed up or slow down the turbo's rpm. Then change the compressor wheel to adjust the boost level you want. Then fine tune that with a waste gate.

The cool thing about the STS setup is you don't need an intercooler because the boost is running cooler from a cooler running turbo. Or special exhaust manifolds:thinking:

So you could run a Y pipe'd single 3" inch exhaust back to behind the transfer case and mount the turbo there inside the frame rail. Add an electric fuel pump to pump the oil return forward to the pan and the rest becomes just some plumbing. The trick for the turbo is to size one that is on a similar size or slightly smaller engine, like a Perkins 354T and those are found in lots of tractor junkyards in Massey Ferguson equipment.
George
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
This is not quite as true as it once was. www.ststurbo.com/home does remote mounted turbos that are running on a much colder exhaust signal than normally seen with underhood turbos. With the remote mount they run a smaller hot side (physical) with an unspecified turbine. Because you can change the turbine wheel and that changes it's vanes while still using the same housing you can speed up or slow down the turbo's rpm. Then change the compressor wheel to adjust the boost level you want. Then fine tune that with a waste gate.

The cool thing about the STS setup is you don't need an intercooler because the boost is running cooler from a cooler running turbo. Or special exhaust manifolds:thinking:

So you could run a Y pipe'd single 3" inch exhaust back to behind the transfer case and mount the turbo there inside the frame rail. Add an electric fuel pump to pump the oil return forward to the pan and the rest becomes just some plumbing. The trick for the turbo is to size one that is on a similar size or slightly smaller engine, like a Perkins 354T and those are found in lots of tractor junkyards in Massey Ferguson equipment.
George

Hey that is my engine :D
I love my T6-354
 
Huh? Turbos go under the hood. I've never seen a diesel pickup with a turbo some place else....

How does this STS thing apply to a 6.2? Last time I checked, heat was still the main ingredient for a boost recipe with a normal turbo mounted in a normal position.
 
I think (meaning not positive) is they're capturing the residual heat by not enlarging the exhaust. I know that sounds bassakwards. By leaving the exhaust slightly smaller than you would normally do they maintain the velocity which I think helps deliver the more of the heat to the turbo.

My first thought when I heard about these guys was NFW does this work. But a buddy of mine lives about 20 minutes from them and says they are for real. He's been a turbo nut since the mid 60's. And he's really jealous he didn't think of it first.
George
 
just seems crazy, either you're gonna have alot of plumbing underneath, or have to replace your air filter once at week from all the dust kicked up by your tires.
 
Uhh you can't leave the air intake under the truck in case you go through deep water. On a pickup you could just go straight up into the box and come out behind the cab. On a blazer I haven't gotten all the details of the filter finalized for me yet.
 
I see the system nearly pointless though, I'd rather just put my turbo under the hood....:doah:

Regardless, this thread is about turboing a 6.2 diesel, that STS deal only does gassers.
 
I could see this being done on a 6.2. Then at a starting price of $4000 that's a lot of coin for something you'll be doing a lot of customizing on to fit and doesn't include "tuning."
 
DEMON44 said:
........and sorry I realize its an old thread...........but I love diesels....and turbos......{sniff sniff tear in the eye} I got twins comming for my cummins HX40 top and HT4C bottom 60 psi here we come :D

Twins...ohhh your evil:bow:

Turbos work on 3 things. Adibiatic heat exchange, pressure and velocity. If a turbo worked just on heat you could "theoretically" make it work with a heat gun. I'll post more later today because I have to run and rechack a tech manual to make sure I get my definitions right.

Damm I'm being a hit and run poster.....
George
Twins...I don't have a dodge and I'm jealous. That should kick butt:wink1:
 
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