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Good deal? 14BFF

I was thinking I would offer him $150.00 and say I would pick it up.

It will cost me $50.00 in gas to get there and back.
 
TexasBlazerBoy said:
One more question, will half ton u-bolts work on a 14BFF?:confused:
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When you say half-ton, I presume you mean for a 10- or 12-bolt ... and IIRC, no, you'll need new u-bolts as the 14BFF is a thicker axle. You should also get the U-bolt plates, spring plates, whatever you wanna call 'em, from the guy with the axle... as obviously the thicker axle means the U-bolts are spaced farther apart.

-- A
 
dremu said:
When you say half-ton, I presume you mean for a 10- or 12-bolt ... and IIRC, no, you'll need new u-bolts as the 14BFF is a thicker axle. You should also get the U-bolt plates, spring plates, whatever you wanna call 'em, from the guy with the axle... as obviously the thicker axle means the U-bolts are spaced farther apart.

-- A
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Yes sir Aaron,

Half ton= 12 bolt correct?

Thank you for telling me to get them from him, I wouldn't have thought about that.:doah:
 
TexasBlazerBoy said:
Yes sir Aaron,

Half ton= 12 bolt correct?

Thank you for telling me to get them from him, I wouldn't have thought about that.:doah:
Click to expand...

Well, 1/2's came with 10-bolts in the later years... but yeah, that's the idea.

Don't ask me why I know about spring plates :doah:

-- A
 
Don't ask me why I know about spring plates :doah:
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:haha: :haha:

I gotcha.....

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You will also need the conversion u joint as well.
The 14 bolt has a 1350 ujoint and the k5 prolly has a saginaw 44 joint if its a 10 bolt.

I have my old u joint from my blazer that you can have for the price of shipping if you need it to get running or to have a spare.
 
You might see what u joints are in the suburban now. It may have the 1350 ujoints already in it. If so, you could just have that cut down to fit your k5.

That would be the best route instead of using a conversion joint I would think.
 
hunterguy86 said:
You will also need the conversion u joint as well.
The 14 bolt has a 1350 ujoint and the k5 prolly has a saginaw 44 joint if its a 10 bolt.
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Unless you blow the clip landing out of the driveshaft when installing the conversion joint. :doah: Then you can have a new shaft built (what I did) or get a 1350 yoke put on.

TexasBlazerBoy said:
I have a 12bolt in the back right now. Thanks for the info though.
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12 bolt has 1310 joints, 14 bolt is 1350, 10 bolt is S44. So you still need the conversion joint.

TexasBlazerBoy said:
Dustin,
Please explain, I know nothing of ujoints:confused: . I am more worried about getting the axle.
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He's saying have the Suburban shaft cut down to fit the Blazer if it has the right joint (1350) in it. Be careful the T-case end is correct also.

For ubolts/spring plates, the cheapest route I found was the kit from ORD.

Expect to pay another $100-150 on top of the axle itself to do it the swap. Mine was right around $900, but that was with a new shaft (~$300) and disc swap (~$250), plus another $350 on top of that for the front 3/4 ton axle.

Just make sure that the 14 bolt is out of a 3/4 ton truck, not a 1 ton. A 1 ton truck has different spring pad spacing.
 
fabjunkie said:
Just make sure that the 14 bolt is out of a 3/4 ton truck, not a 1 ton. A 1 ton truck has different spring pad spacing.
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To note (for others reading) that you're right, but in this case since the donor is a Burb he's safe, as the only Burbs with 14FF's are 3/4's (there are no 1-ton Burbs.)

-- A
 
Good advice so far... I personally would wait to find a axle with lower gears at a better price. Last year I sold a 14ff with 3.73's for a bill, so there are better deals out there. Heck, just about any junkyard aroud here would take 150 if you broke out with the cash.
 
WOW!!! $200!!!

they are a dime a dozen for $50 around here.. and can be had with whatever gears ya want.. well almost... 3.73, 4.10, 4.56.....

so yeah the cheaper you can get it the better....:wink1:
 
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