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One_Ton_k5

One_Ton_k5

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 30, 2003
Posts
168
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Location
St Paul Minnesota USA
Hi Diesel guys,

I am considering replacing my 350 with a diesel.

I have a gas motor in my k5 now so I thought I'd just get a complete truck for a swap. So my question is:

Of the years that came with the 6.2/6.5, what years would be best to look for for a donor?

I assume later models with serpentine setups are better, but you guys will know better than me. Also, do I need to change the fuel lines and tank as well?

I searched. ;-)

Thanks.
 
I'd look for a 3/4 ton. '82 was the alledgedly stronger red block...but it was also the only year that came with the coarse thread injectors.

3/4 ton and one ton are all non emmissions and have the more desirable 'J' code intake, and consequently make a bit more power.

I've never had a problem running 'V' belts, in fact it makes things a bit easier if you ever add an accessory later (like on board air)

I re-used my fuel tank, I drained the gas out as best I could, then used 2-3 psi of air to push the remainder out through the fuel lines. Shop air with a blow gun and a rag at the filler neck was my method. Then I added two gallons of diesel and blew that through the tank and lines. Then I connected the fuel lines to the lift pump and added diesel to the tank.

You could do a search for threads I started in this forum going back to october or november 2002 and find the lion's share of my 6.2 swap.

OK...did the leg work for you. None of my old pic's come up as they were all on Webshots and the account was nuked due to inactivity. Still some good info there (I think)

http://coloradok5.com/forums/search.php?searchid=806893&pp=25&page=2

Rene
 
Also look for a ex-military CUCV either a blazer or 5/4 ton pick-up. The both have non-egr, non-emission 6.2 diesels. As a side benefit they are usually low mileage units. They can be bought directly from the US gov't at GSAAUCTIONS.
 
Thanks for the search link. I read through most of that stuff and it all seems pretty straight forward.

I was wondering if you guys are happy with the power of the 6.2? I've never even seen one so no idea how they are but how does it "feel" just driving around? Close to a TBI 350?

I got my dana 60 installed today and am getting closer and closer to pulling the 350 so I have to decide soon what to do. I want my truck to survive a nuclear war ;-)

The 6.2 can operate with minimal electronics correct? How dependable is the injection system? Do 6.2's require a computer to run?

So many questions.....

Thanks!
 
With good gearing the 6.2 does quite well. On par with a carb'd 350, a bit slower than a TBI 350 I'd say. It makes the power very differently though. A 350 gets better as it spools up, but isn't much to get excited about off idle. The 6.2 is really impressive off idle, but loses steam.

No computer.

Requires one low amp 12 volt wire to stay running (way less draw than a distributor)

Injection system is pretty reliable once you get it up to snuff in the first place. The key is to use fuel conditioner/additives to make up for the lack of sulphur in today's fuels. Worst case is you need 8 rebuilt injectors and a rebuilt injection pump...which ran me $347 for all back in 2003. Probably still under $500 for the whole mess now.

They're also dead simple to work on once you familiarize yourself with everything.

Rene
 
I've been thinking about how the diesel makes power down low. I wondered if it would be better in day to day driving because of the low down torque.

When driving around town, I rarely wind the old 350 over 3000 RPM. Is that about where the diesel runs out of steam? Cause if it is I think I can live with that.

You could always add a turbo too right? That would give you a little boost on the top end maybe.

I am shopping for a 6.2 now. I put out a few offers on Craigslist specials over the weekend, we will see what happens.

My axles have 4.56:1 gears and I'm installing an nv4500 with the 241 t-case, that should be enough gears for me with 37 x 12.50's.

With no distributor, how do you set up the timing? Or a tachometer?

Thanks.
 
They pull decent right to the governed limit (3600 rpm), it's not like they fall on their face or anything. All the V-8 diesels actually rev pretty good.

The only timing to set is the injection timing which is a set it and forget it kind of thing. You line up the marks, and snug it down to ballpark it. Anything beyond that you need to take it in and have a shop with some special tools fine tune it from there. If I remember right they use a luminosity probe through one of the glow plug holes to 'see' the ignition event and tune from there.

Tach is a PITA...do a search on "Diesel tach". There are some older threads, as well as at least one that is recent.

I ran with 4.56's and an SM 465 on 39.5" TSL's and it was fine. I have a NV4500 now, plan on keeping the gears but dropping down to a 38" radial. If the pavement was a little wet I could get it sideways without any real effort (detroit). Not that getting the tires to spin was ever a priority for me...

Rene
 
This Autometer tach seems like it would be pretty easy. Hooks to the alternator and the other model they have uses the crank or the flywheel.

Do you think these are accurate?

Sounds like the 6.2 will have enough power for me. I think it will be sweet with the nv4500 and 4.56's.

Thanks for your help. I could have bought a 6.2 last weekend but bought a new plasma cutter instead. :D
 
I think when they're set up right they're very accurate. Honestly, Russel would be the instrument guru to talk to about the tach stuff though. He has some edjumacation with that sort of stuff.

When I did my swap all I could find were those little Tach's so I just stopped looking. I may run the tach you linked though...it looks real good and would fit the guage cluster nicely I think.

Plasma cutters are nice. I can't convince my boss to get one though, and I don't do enough fab at home to justify one for home either.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I think when they're set up right they're very accurate. Honestly, Russel would be the instrument guru to talk to about the tach stuff though. He has some edjumacation with that sort of stuff.

When I did my swap all I could find were those little Tach's so I just stopped looking. I may run the tach you linked though...it looks real good and would fit the guage cluster nicely I think.

Plasma cutters are nice. I can't convince my boss to get one though, and I don't do enough fab at home to justify one for home either.

Rene
Click to expand...

I don't think anyone really NEEDS a plasma. I have Oxy/Ace as well but the Plasma is so much cleaner. Especially on the light gauge metal that you can't cut with a torch.

I bought a new wirefeed a few months ago too and I am trying to fab enough to pay for the equipment. I'd say I'm about 1/4 of the way on the welder and just getting started with the Plasma. Someday....

Those tachs do look sweet, I wish you could get them like that for gas motors too, who really revs there gas motor to 10k RPM anyways? 6 grand is more than eneough but their hard to find in that range.

Most are at least 8000 and again, who revs there 350 that high? No one.

;-)
 
That tach should be pretty accurate - it requires magnets to be attached to the flexplate/flywheel and a hall sensor mounted on the engine or transmission. The trick is getting the magnets close enouch to the hall sensor to trip it, but not so close that vibrations and flex cause a collision.
 
The main reason for Tach's that go to 8000 or 10,000 rpm is that tach's and most other guages are most accurate in the middle of their range. A 6000 rpm tach for a 6.2 is about perfect as 3600 is the governed max.

Rene
 
I don't know if I agree that an electric gauge is most accurate in the middle of it's range.

A mechanical gauge, yes, but why would it matter on an electronic gauge like a tach?

?
 
Well, I got a Diesel.

Well I finally found a 6.2 for the right price guys. It's from an 85 Suburban and supposedly has about 140000 miles on it.

I got it for $350 delivered to my door and that includes the alt, the hydro power steering pump, the air cleaner assembly, an extra oil pan, and even still has the v-belts on it. Got all the wiring and the fuel filter assembly as well.

I also picked up a 6.2 flywheel for my manual trans conversion for $100.

I don't know if that's a good deal or not but I can live with it.

I am thinking I'll take it down to the long block and give it a good visual when I replace the oil pan and put new head gaskets and etc and then drop it in the k5.

Thanks for your help guys, I'm looking forward to this.....

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I'd recomend a stud girdle on the bottom end and ARP head studs if you're gonna take it down and inspect anyways. I swapped to the ARP studs on my '83 pick-up and have a bit more peace of mind now. My head gaskets went without any reason...and when I was pulling it apart I found three head bolts on the passenger side were near to loose. Those factory TTY bolts suck, and I have no faith in them at all.

Rene
 
I'll take a look at the studs for the heads and the girdle(sp) too.

I don't want to get too crazy just yet because I still have a lot of work to do just to be able to drive my truck. (As in: need more money for parts ;-)

Got the 60 in and I'm pulling the 350 this weekend. Maybe I can sell it and get a few more parts!

One problem already though, it's got all the emissions garbage and the less desirable intake, where to get the better intake? Aftermarket?

Looks like a dead simple motor to work on though. I'm stoked!
 
'C' code is what you have. Search EvilBay for "J" code 6.2 intake. Watch out for the Hummer intakes as they don't swap without other mods and stuff.

Kenny may have a 'J' code intake lying around too.

My ARP studs cost me $200 or thereabouts. Relatively cheap insurance IMO. Also, while you're inspecting check the balancer for any signs of the rubber part deteriorating and starting to squeeze out. A balancer that's bad leads to a broken crank in a hurry.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
'C' code is what you have. Search EvilBay for "J" code 6.2 intake. Watch out for the Hummer intakes as they don't swap without other mods and stuff.

Kenny may have a 'J' code intake lying around too.

My ARP studs cost me $200 or thereabouts. Relatively cheap insurance IMO. Also, while you're inspecting check the balancer for any signs of the rubber part deteriorating and starting to squeeze out. A balancer that's bad leads to a broken crank in a hurry.

Rene
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for the advice on the intake.

Will the 6.5 intakes fit on a 6.2? What about Turbo's and all that stuff? Is it hard and is it worth it?

I drove a N/A 6.5 once and it was OK, but I'd think the turbo would really help. What do you guys think?
 
Turbo is cool, and it does do a fair bit to wake em up. Definitely want to have a good look see at the motor before chucking a turbo on it though. I bought a complete ATS turbo set-up a couple of years ago...got it cheap and it needs the turbo rebuilt. Have not installed it yet though. Do a search for arveetek (user name) in this forum and you'll find a turbo 6.2 build thread from a few years back. Casey peiced the turbo set-up together over time...then installed it all. He was highly impressed with the power gains.

Don't know much about the 6.5 manifolds, but my guess would be that bolting up an air cleaner might be a challenge. I have a buddy's 94 65. TD downstairs in my carport. I'll have a good look at it tomorrow and report back.

Rene
 
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