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got a couple 454 questions

Steve GMC

Steve GMC

1/2 ton status
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middletown,Connecticut
im about to start to tear into my first personal engine rebuild on my big block, had a few questions. i am just doing a basic rebuild, no boring or anything of that nature, all stock bearing sizes... getting this kit from summit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...EM-205660M-000

first question, do i need to use plastiguage if im just doing it to stock? if so what should the reading be? .002?

also, ive heard that stock big block oil pumps are bullet proof? is this true?
no need to buy a new one after the rebuild? oil press now is at 45

its going to be a mild engine, going for torque, my neighbors good friend was selling some parts so i picked em up for cheap,

comp xtreme energy cam 274/286* .552/.555" 1800-6000rpm
crane full roller rockers
demon 850cfm double pumper (i love transformers movie)
Gm "hi perf" heads 14092359
mallory dist, msd wires
along with other misc parts


any thoughts on the combo, i was thinking the carbs too big
any advice on my first own engine build? ive done them before with my friends but never on a big block, the engine is very healthy, comp test only had about a 5-8lb max difference, truck had 85,000miles on it, i just wanna freshen her up b4 putting it back into the truck that is goin through a body off restro



also, with a hydro clutch, having the flywheel turned i heard screws with the slave? i heard something about a spacer to make up for what was taken off the flywheel? or can i have it turned and not worry about it>?




thanks
Steve
 
14092359...86-90...oval...OPEN...366T, 427T, Marked "HiPerf"

Those heads would be peanut port heads and good for low end torque to about 4500rpm. Must use a peanut port intake manifold to match.
 
4X4HIGH said:
14092359...86-90...oval...OPEN...366T, 427T, Marked "HiPerf"

Those heads would be peanut port heads and good for low end torque to about 4500rpm. Must use a peanut port intake manifold to match.
Click to expand...
What's a peanut port intake manifold ?
 
tiny2085 said:
What's a peanut port intake manifold ?
Click to expand...

Peanut port is the small oval port. GM BBC's had 3 different intake ports, small oval, large oval, and square port. All passenger car oval port heads are large oval and some muscle cars got the square port and trucks could have had either small oval (peanut port) or large oval port.
 
please replace your oil pump with a new high volume oil pump . and resurface the flywheel[ i have never heard of taking too much off that it will affect the slave cylinder operation] [ but i could be wrong] and also replace the ball and socket along with the clutch fork and buy a new clutch not reman. i have owned a few 454s in the past they are sure some of the strongest and most reliable engines ever . other than that they are like your kids it takes alot to feed them.also the 850 should work out good most 454 came with a 800 cfm .
 
DO NOT use a high volume or high pressure pump. GM engines already have plenty of oil and don't need to starve the bottom end by putting more oil up top.

Yes you should resurface the flywheel and depending on how much material gets removed could affect the hydraulic clutch operation and as you already discovered there are shims to correct the issue.
 
ohh yeah, it came with an edelbrock air gap intake too, i dont plan on reving this engine that high, except when i do truck pulls, other than that its gonna be a torquer... how much removed off flywheel would cause a shim needed? also about the heads, what is the most desireable, large port? just trying to gain knowledge of big blocks
 
Not sure how much being removed will cause problems. There's no way to tell how much has ever been removed in the past.

Small intake runner volume will build lots of low end torque at the expense of top end HP. On the other hand, large intake runner volume will build top end HP at the expense of low end torque. You can't build an engine that gives both so you need to decide what RPM you want to make either torque or HP and build around that parameter.

The "781" heads are the best flowing BBC heads and work even better when you have them fitted for the larger valves IE: 2.19/1.88
 
4X4HIGH said:
The "781" heads are the best flowing BBC heads and work even better when you have them fitted for the larger valves IE: 2.19/1.88
Click to expand...

For the OP, what 4x4High is referring to is the casting number on the heads. For instance, 336781 is (one of?) the casting number for the high flowing stock heads. You can look casting numbers up on http://www.mortec.com/ -- not just for heads but blocks as well. They'll usually have a year range in which you'd find these castings, plus details about them.

And Greg72 and I can both attest to those heads, with the big valves, being dang secksy :D

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202575

Admittedly, Greg's motors are all gigantic and hot, strokers or just plain obscene displacement ... but mine's just bored out .060, i.e. 468ci, stock crank, nothing over the top. Those heads/valves coupled to headers, and a slightly hot cam and an Edelbrock intake, that motor makes something like 450hp and over 550ft-lbs :eek: It's in my dually crewcab and that thing moves faster than my Blazer. Scott (4x4High) knows his stuff :bow:

-- A
 
first question, do i need to use plastiguage if im just doing it to stock? if so what should the reading be? .002?

You should always use plastiguage when installing new Rod or Main bearings. Even if you get them in a set theres no garantee that they will all be the right size. And you would sure hate to start up that beast and hear a knock or something. it's a C.Y.A. thing.

As far as the clearance's go theres a range not one set number.
 
Yes, you either need to use plastigage or measure the crank journal and then torque a bearing into the rod and measure the bearing ID to figure your clearance. The required clearance is going to vary by which engine and also how the engine is going to be used but in general you'll be looking for about .0015" clearance.

Keep this in mind, GM used selective fit bearings which cannot be bought anywhere. If you try to use a standard size bearing you will have excessive clearance and resulting low oil pressure.
 
Before you buy the engine kit. You should take the block to a machine shop and have it checked out. There is a bunch of stuff to check out before you rebuild. Like Bore taper. Out of round, Ring gap and many other measurments. You may need machine work. Just because the block looks good does not mean anything.
If you just put new parts in a wore out block, and add some performance parts. You will see all your hard work go up in smoke and be back to rebuilding the engine again.
 
And please don't call it a rebuild. What you're wanting to do is called an overhaul. A rebuild you do ALL machine work including, boring block, grinding crank, rebuilding the heads, and possibly other machine work to the block if required that's not normally done like decking, or align honing mains, or resizing rods. An overhaul is simply throwing new parts into the existing block and rebuilding the heads. Many hundreds of dollars difference between the two.
 
yep, on the cam I would go with the 268 comp cam versus the 274 with the peanut port heads. the combo you are describing is almost identical to the moter in my 85 burb and that thing will pull hell of its foundation.
 
just my 2 cents worth but i have read in a bbc book that some of these 359 heads were marked hi perf and had the oval ports (not peanut) and also had larger intake runners,here is the quote I found


"Usually the "HIPERF" casting on a head indicates a rectangular port head,
but I have found one large oval port head with "HIPERF" showing in the
rocker arm valley. This was head casting number 14092359 and was off of an
'87 tall deck 427 truck motor."
 
do tons or reading and asking guys like 4x4high ( scott ) and greg72 and few others. thay build or have big block chevys.

and also here is a good thread he wanted to do a fresh up and its gone gravy now. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270888

and also read / read / and full tear down and check over of your parts first ! then make a list of what you need.

and big heavy 4x4 trucks need bottom end power . so starting power at 1600-1800 is a bit high . you want the power more at the bottom to get the ride rolling.

tourqe gets you rollin.

horsepower keeps you rollin.
 
a LOT of BBC heads say Hi-Perf on them, compared to Fords they are:p:

but if you want any rpm at all look for the big ovals, 6500+ look for the rectangular ports.

small oval or peanut port, compared to big oval:

5318.gif


and peanut with a rectangular gasket on them:

sucp_1001_07+complete_chevy_big_block_build_testing+port_size_difference.jpg



I would also back down on that cam some for the peanut port heads.
And listen to the advice given here.
 
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