Got a few strange questions

[Pure Insanity]

1. Does anyone use a lift block on their steering arm. I dont recall EVER hearing them mentioned. I have known a few guys that ran them on their rigs but dont know of any ill effects or long term info.

2. How in the hell do I get the studs out of the knuckle? I had to cut them off my D44 that Im building to get the welded on, hacked up spliced together home made steering arm off. I have soaked, heated, beaten, twisted, and have BARELY gotten one to move!

3. Does anyone have pics of a CV shaft that they have ground for clearance? I have a 6in. lift and can tell theres not much room for droop on the shaft. I might have 1/8in. down on the shaft. I am pretty sure of where to grind it, but would like to see one thats been done.

4. I need someone that wants to TRADE D44 4.88s for 4.56. I dont have the cash to get everything done in time for the run were planning down in Fla, AND be able to go, if I have to buy gears.

5. What have you done w/ your Tcase shifter after a body lift. I finally hooked up my shifter after I modified the linkage to a lazy Z looking thing. It creeps out on me when I gas it. I have all new motor and tranny mounts and my motor torques quite a bit still. I am thinking Ill end up haveing to go solid mounts eventually.

I think thats about it for now. Im sure Ill think of more soon but that can get it started. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

 

[Overkill]

I don't have an answer to any of your questions, but I did send you a PM about the ONF run. Im in, but you gotta promise you will tow me home when (not IF) I break something major /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif .haha.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Well hey at least my post got a bump to the top. LOL!

 

[GMCLegacy]

sorry i dont have any pics of a ground driveshaft, but i ground mine to work. im guessing since you have an 86, the front driveshaft is what you are talking about, and also it has the "flange mount" to the tcase.

what i did is start by grind the 2 small tabs that are on the driveshaft tube completely off. they are about a 1/4" tall and an inch wide. after that, start rounding the "H" section of the driveshaft around the u-joints untill you are happy with the amount of angle. there is no need to get carried away with grinding, it gets to the point when the yoke no longer binds, instead it is the CV section.
Also try to avoid throwing all the shaving into the cv section of the driveshaft. it may not be a bad idea to take the cv section apart and clean out the shaving (and dirt) from the CV section.

hope that sorta kinda helps ya.

later

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx. That is pretty nuch what I was thinking would need to be done. It helps that I happened to look at the shaft on a guys lifted Blazer just 20 min ago so its fresh in my mind. He needs it to and didnt realize it. LOL!

 

[Pure Insanity]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
How in the hell do I get the studs out of the knuckle? I had to cut them off my D44 that Im building to get the welded on, hacked up spliced together home made steering arm off. I have soaked, heated, beaten, twisted, and have BARELY gotten one to move!

[/ QUOTE ] Got that one handled. </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Does anyone have pics of a CV shaft that they have ground for clearance? I have a 6in. lift and can tell theres not much room for droop on the shaft. I might have 1/8in. down on the shaft. I am pretty sure of where to grind it, but would like to see one thats been done.

[/ QUOTE ] That one too.

Still need help on 1, 4 and 5. C'mon now these are easy questions. Surely SOMEONE can help.

 

[heavy4x4]

1.) I don't use one, and many people will tell you that they are a no-no. The reason for this is because the pushing and pulling action puts too much stress on longer studs (which are necessary in a lifted steering arm). The only other way one could work would be to have the lift block bolt to the knuckle and then have new studs come out of the block. That just sounds unsafe - not worth the risk.
4.) Can't help - got 10 bolts and 3.42's.
5.) Can't help - no body lift.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx. The longer studs were my main concern also. Ive seen them run but didnt know of any long term effects. I will be going to a crossover hopefully soon, and I want/need a few more inches and the lift block is cheap enough to not feel bad about never using again after the crossover. Maybe Ill look into a pitman arm, its double what the block is but I want to be safe.