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Got me a CUCV!

dremu

dremu

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...and I'm diesel-stupid. I do okay on the gas rigs -- got two '74's and a '77 -- bu this one is all new-fangled and weird.

84 M1009 CUCV, 6.2L; supposedly 130K miles. She was cheap; needs a little love, as a local PD got her from the service, painted her white, mounted some radios and stuff... and then auctioned her off. Runs decently (I think!) ... man, the power curve on a diesel takes some getting used to, though!

Coupla things, since I didn't get an owner's manual... I'll go download the TM's, but for the short term...

* What weight oil do I put in this thing?

* What's the pull knob to the left of the brake release and above the hood release? Manual throttle or something?

* Besides the sticker on the visor, which thankfully is still there, anybody have any wisdom to share with me about starting the old girl? I don't grok glow plugs yet.

* Brakes are a little mushy; I figure I'll bleed them when I change out the rest of the fluids, and see if the pads and shoes are iffy. Is there anything else I need to know about this hydroboost thing?

Think that'll get me going for the next while :D

-- A
 
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dremu said:
* What weight oil do I put in this thing?

* What's the pull knob to the left of the brake release and above the hood release? Manual throttle or something?

* Besides the sticker on the visor, which thankfully is still there, anybody have any wisdom to share with me about starting the old girl? I don't grok glow plugs yet.

* Brakes are a little mushy; I figure I'll bleed them when I change out the rest of the fluids, and see if the pads and shoes are iffy. Is there anything else I need to know about this hydroboost thing?
Click to expand...

15W40 on the oil. Shell Rotella T or Mobile Delvac are a couple of the best brands but even the cheap stuff from Walmart will work good with regular oil changes.

Not sure on the pull knob, can't remember having one on any of the CUCV's I've driven in the service, but that has been a few years now.

Are you saying the glowplugs are not working? Or you don't understand them? If they are working you just wait for the "WAIT" light to go out then turn the key while pushing the accelorator about halfway down. IF they are not working, just buy 8 new ones and replace them or it won't start cold very well at all.

I really think getting a power flush/bleed done is well worth the $50 they charge for it :thumb:
 
Well is it a blazer or a pickup ? the pull knob is an outside vent . as for the glow plugs go buy a complete set of 60gs if it doesnt already have them , i think it will say on the plug what it is . Rotella T 15w40 is the std oil .
 
kennyw said:
15W40 on the oil. Shell Rotella T or Mobile Delvac are a couple of the best brands but even the cheap stuff from Walmart will work good with regular oil changes.

Not sure on the pull knob, can't remember having one on any of the CUCV's I've driven in the service, but that has been a few years now.

Are you saying the glowplugs are not working? Or you don't understand them? If they are working you just wait for the "WAIT" light to go out then turn the key while pushing the accelorator about halfway down. IF they are not working, just buy 8 new ones and replace them or it won't start cold very well at all.

I really think getting a power flush/bleed done is well worth the $50 they charge for it :thumb:
Click to expand...

I built the garden-sprayer power bleeder, works for me.

I assume the glowplugs are working, cuz she starts ... I just don't understand them :D

Thanks for the info!

-- A
 
K10ANDYKHAMNIC said:
Well is it a blazer or a pickup ? the pull knob is an outside vent . as for the glow plugs go buy a complete set of 60gs if it doesnt already have them , i think it will say on the plug what it is . Rotella T 15w40 is the std oil .
Click to expand...

Doh, edited OP. M1009 *Blazer* ... if it was the 1008 or what the pickup is, I'd be stealing the D60 even now in the rain for my '74 :haha:

Is 60gs the part number? (again, I'm diesel :ears: stupid, so bear with me :) )

And duh ... I was wondering why the heater controls had no vent option. That would 'splain it. Thanks!

-- A
 
Oh and ... I assume there's supposed to be a, err, fuel cap in the filler, judging from the chain that's hanging there.

Filler pipe looks HUGE though, but that may be 'cuz I'm used to the 73-80's. Do y'all know if the CUCV filler is the same as the gas rigs, or are diesels different, or ..? LMC catalog lists exactly one, doesn't say whether it's gas or diesel or what.

-- A
 
Diesels have a bigger filler neck in general which is cool cuz they fill up faster . the one lmc list is probly not the right one .
 
K10ANDYKHAMNIC said:
Diesels have a bigger filler neck in general which is cool cuz they fill up faster . the one lmc list is probly not the right one .
Click to expand...

And dangit, they don't give that filler neck away (twice the cost of the gasser! :eek1: )

I may go digging at the PickNPull.

-- A
 
dremu said:
Oh and ... I assume there's supposed to be a, err, fuel cap in the filler, judging from the chain that's hanging there.

Filler pipe looks HUGE though, but that may be 'cuz I'm used to the 73-80's. Do y'all know if the CUCV filler is the same as the gas rigs, or are diesels different, or ..? LMC catalog lists exactly one, doesn't say whether it's gas or diesel or what.

-- A
Click to expand...


If all you need is a cap, why do you need to order a whole filler?
 
joez said:
If all you need is a cap, why do you need to order a whole filler?
Click to expand...

I don't ... was just looking in the catalog. That stuff I scrounge at the Pick-N-Pull, cuz I can decide what shape it's in and the prices are much better. $90 for a filler pipe, wow.

Not as bad as JCW wanting $800 for a 43-gallon tank... that's for the Chalet, but that's half what I paid for the truck! :haha:

-- A
 
The fuel tank on CUCV is the same as civilian, but it's much bigger where the cap is. I learned the hard way that you need a funny military filler hose from the cap to the tank (after I cut the old one off, doh) - fat on one end, skinny on the other. I assume it's so they can use the same filler nozzles as for filling tanks or whatever. :D
 
the cap is bigger on all diesels. The fuel nozzle at truck stops are larger to fill those big tanks faster. I believe thats why the filler neck is larger even on your blazer.

The only down side, is don't leave it with the nozzle locked open, by the time it senses fuel to cut off, you'll have diesel fuel/foam all over the side of your truck. Ask me, experience..........
 
Hmm. I looked all over and couldn't find a filler hose that wasn't the same on both ends. Maybe there are few enough diesels that nobody has 'em. I did find some at Boyce though.
 
Another question, for the gurus.

Is the oil supposed to black and, err, like sooty? I'm used to old oil in the gassers, where it turns black and dirty, like, but the oil oil in this thing was sorta flat black, different somehow.

Anything I should look for, bad or good?

-- A
 
The oil will turn black in a matter of minutes after being changed...I just try and change it every 3000 miles.

Rene
 
dremu said:
Another question, for the gurus.

Is the oil supposed to black and, err, like sooty? I'm used to old oil in the gassers, where it turns black and dirty, like, but the oil oil in this thing was sorta flat black, different somehow.

Anything I should look for, bad or good?

-- A
Click to expand...

Diesel has a lot of soot so the oil washes the cylinder walls and you end up with black oil almost instantly.
Like Rene said just change it at 3000.
 
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