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Got me a diesel

Corey 78K5

1 ton status
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Feb 17, 2000
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Location
Humboldt County, CA
I picked up a 94 K2500 extra cab 6.5 turbo NV4500 164k on the od.
I got it from my friend for dirt cheap $400. He was hard up for money cause he is building a house and it did have a damaged front clip. He had a 92 with the same color front clip that he tossed in for free. Only other parts I need to have it all back together is a radiator, AC condenser and a hood. The hood from the other truck had the typical GM fold in it.

So what should I look for or look out for with the engine? I also want to buy some new batteries for it. What would be the recommended cold cranking amps for the engine? I figure it will make a decent second truck. Decent fuel economy and the 8' bed will haul more than the Dakota. There are a few dings and dents in it and IMO it is an ugly truck with the extra cab and 8' box make it look like a giant white slug. But for the price I figured it was well worth it just for the running gear if nothing else. Who knows the running gear could wind up in something else some day.
 
It's a good buy. Sell the trans, and the 6.5 turbo parts, and you're ahead $1500-2000 from what you paid. Add in the 14 bolt, interior parts etc, and you could part that truck out for 10x what you paid for it (literally) As for what to look out for, biggest thing is a remote mount PMD for the injector pump.
 
101 views and all I get for my questions is part it out? Do you really think I would go through the hassle of swapping the front clip to part it out?
 
So what should I look for or look out for with the engine?

The PMD's usually fail, either carry a spare or relocate it.

I also want to buy some new batteries for it. What would be the recommended cold cranking amps for the engine?

1000+ CCA is ideal. The more the merrier if you ever go anywhere cold.
 
I wasn't suggesting to part it out, merely stating that worst case, you can make your money back, and then some.
 
Oh ok I noticed that thing. It did look to be in a rather odd place. Looks like it would get hot for sure located there on top of the engine.
 
It does, and that is why they fail. Most guys mount them up on the core support on a heat sink to keep them as cool as possible. Other than the PMD, the DS4 pumps seem to be pretty reliable
 
Not really sure what you mean by a heat sink. I figured I would rob a finned aluminum block out of an old PC or an amp or something to attach it to. Mount it in an area as far from the engine heat and as near cool air as possible.
 
You've got the right idea! I suppose I could have specified that I meant a finned aluminum block for a heat sink. Make sure you use lots of thermal grease!
 
So would there be a problem with splicing the wires on the harness to the PMD to relocate it? Or is it really necessary to cough up the $300 like I saw for one kit last night that only moves it to the top of the intake over the valve cover?
 
Not really sure what you mean by a heat sink. I figured I would rob a finned aluminum block out of an old PC or an amp .

thats exactly what a heat sink is.


they draw heat away from a heat producing device and radiate it away. there 2 really big transistors in the PMD thats what produces big time heat. more than what the engine is throwing at it. the OEM idea was to have flowing fuel on the other side of the mounting surface to cool it. well that works ok ...sorta. got to relocate it away on as big a heat sink as you can find. aluminum for sure. draw file the mount surfaces flat and smooth as you can. thats a big key too. heat transfer has to have surface contact, if theres small air gaps in the mount surfaces.....no heat transfer there. coat them with dielectric grease before you mount them together. it should last a good long time. that way. mounting it out on the inner fender is plenty far enough away.
 
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