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Got my 14BFF!!!!!!!

franco802

franco802

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Posts
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Location
San Diego, CA
I just got back from Ramona,CA about one hour ago. I haven't cracked it open yet because I am about to watch the UFC 66.

Only thing that worries me is, I just noticed the wheels on it are 16.5x6.5:( I hope my 15x8 rallys fit on here because i just got new tires a week ago.

Here are some pics. It came out of a 3/4 ton camper special 74-80 GMC truck.
14bolt001.jpg

14bolt002.jpg

14bolt003.jpg


The numbers in the pics you see are 3977323 and on top of that it says 157.
14bolt006.jpg


14bolt004.jpg
 
What do you guys think?? I picked it up for $100.00. I will replace the brake lines/drums/shoes/wheel cylinders. This sat for 15 years and came off a low mile truck with 68k!!
 
Not bad, seems to be the growing rate.

I was extremly lucky to find mine, completly rebuilt w/ a detroit for 125 bucks:eek1::D
 
Thats about the going price as a good deal. It appears that it may have some seal issues on the driver side?
 
Not a bad deal. You won't have any problems with your wheels on there. I had 15x12's on my last one. It does look like the brakes were leaking on it. It would be cheaper and easier to just go ahead and do the disc swap instead of replacing the drum brakes, unless you want to keep the e-brake option on it.
 
ARent your current wheels 6 lug? size doesnt matte if you have the wrong lug pattern... 15" rims will clear a 3/4 ton 14 botl though
 
79Stomper said:
It would be cheaper and easier to just go ahead and do the disc swap instead of replacing the drum brakes...
Click to expand...

Its rare the drums need a full overhaul... often the adjusters are seized so the shoes/drums have very little wear. Hub seals, hardware kit, and wheel cylinders are all I've ever replaced on them. :dunno:
 
franco802 said:
What do you guys think?? I picked it up for $100.00. I will replace the brake lines/drums/shoes/wheel cylinders. This sat for 15 years and came off a low mile truck with 68k!!
Click to expand...

Nice score! Hopefully it has the 4.56's and the detroit they were saying it does........
 
good deal!..

100 bones is a decent score!..most places get at least 150 bucks here,more if they know what ratio it is or if its a posi...your lucky,anything that's sat outside 15 years here,you wouldn't have to pull the cover,it would already be rotted away!--I'd definately pull the cover,check it over good,and flush it out with diesel fuel, and put new gear lube in..see if its posi too while your in there seeing which ratio it is!..new wheel seals look inevitable..:crazy:
 
Well, I cracked her open and discovered an open diff with 4.10s. I was hoping for 4.56s, but oh well. Better than my 10 bolt with 3.08s. The way I look at it, buying this rear for only 100 bucks, the 4.10 gears are a bonus. I will just buy 4.10s for the front 10 bolt and be done with it.

Now, can someone give me a list of what I will need to make this thing work in my K5?

The way this thing looks so far, it looks as it would bolt right in without changing a thing:dunno: Even the shock brackets look like they are on the same sides as my 10 bolt:confused: I do need to buy new drums as one of them has a big chip missing from it.

My "to buy" list so far is:

new drums
wheel cylinders
mabe brake shoes
brake lines:confused:

Will I need longer ubolts since I have 4" lift blocks on my 10 bolt right now??

Also, since I had my K5 lifted, I still noticed the saggy butt, because i just did 4" blocks for the rear. I thought I read in here somewhere that when you go to a 14bff/14bsf axle it gives you an extra 3/4" of lift, this true?

What about the Ebrake cables, I have the ones I got with the rear end. Kinda glad I kept them because i might need them, do I?

Sorry for all these questions, I just want to be fully prepared when doing this swap!! You guys are welcome to add anything I missed as well. Thank you.
 
franco802 said:
Will I need longer ubolts since I have 4" lift blocks on my 10 bolt right now??

Also, since I had my K5 lifted, I still noticed the saggy butt, because i just did 4" blocks for the rear. I thought I read in here somewhere that when you go to a 14bff/14bsf axle it gives you an extra 3/4" of lift, this true?

What about the Ebrake cables, I have the ones I got with the rear end. Kinda glad I kept them because i might need them, do I?

Sorry for all these questions, I just want to be fully prepared when doing this swap!! You guys are welcome to add anything I missed as well. Thank you.
Click to expand...
You need new Ubolts as the axle diameter is different, 3.375" not the 3" of your 10b. (that and ubolts are torque to yield, so you only get 1 shot of them anyways)

Yes the 14bff will give ~3/4" of lift, mostly due to axle diameter

You have 2 options for ebrake: 1) pull the backing plates off a 14bff or sf that have the correct "clip in" brake lines to mate to your truck, or 2) convert your truck back to the 70's style to match. Since you are already going into the brakes, i would change the plates... hit a junkyard for 14bsf plates, i think my brother paid about $20 for both sides with good cables.

You will need a different u-joint... 10b to 14b conversion, search for the part number, i know its around here

You may want to consider replacing the shock mounts now while the axle is out of the truck... certainly would be easier.
 
as for brakes, i wouldnt waste money on new drums, they're heavy as all hell and ineffective, so get yourself the disc brake upgrade kit because its almost cheaper than new drums...
 
I just did this with mine along with adding a D44 in front. You're on the right track asking these guys, :bow: :bow: :bow: , I did have other sources when I did mine, but kept coming back here. Do a search in the threads and in the tech articles, everything is in here...somewhere.
The only thing I would add is when you're at the junkyard getting your backing plates or better yet, your disk brake parts, you'll need the spring plates from a 14b as well. I didn't convert to disk and I wish I did. Have fun.:D
 
Confedneck79K30 said:
as for brakes, i wouldnt waste money on new drums, they're heavy as all hell and ineffective, so get yourself the disc brake upgrade kit because its almost cheaper than new drums...
Click to expand...
PAD's are easier to install, stop better, and give you more clearance too.
 
that too....


as for ubolts being TTY, you can use them again if they are in good shape..
 
Confedneck79K30 said:
that too....


as for ubolts being TTY, you can use them again if they are in good shape..
Click to expand...
I wouldnt reccomend re-using U-bolts. They are cheap and you then would know they are in good shape.
 
Chaddy said:
PAD's are easier to install, stop better, and give you more clearance too.
Click to expand...

Only reason I don't want to convert to disc is, I want to use 15" wheels because I just got new tires. Also, I have heard it is a PITA because of the master cylinder/brakelines etc.. not having enough pedal because of proportioning valve issues or whatever it was.
 
franco802 said:
Well, I cracked her open and discovered an open diff with 4.10s. I was hoping for 4.56s, but oh well. Better than my 10 bolt with 3.08s. The way I look at it, buying this rear for only 100 bucks, the 4.10 gears are a bonus. I will just buy 4.10s for the front 10 bolt and be done with it.

.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't even bother with your front 10b. Search for a front 8 lug 10, it will most likely have 4.10 gears like you 14, since that was the usual ratio. You should be able to grab one for 200-500 bucks depending on the shape and be money ahead by the time you screw with changing gears and getting 8 lug hubs for your current 10b.
 
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