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got my brake lines in...

Kain

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do i need to wire tie them so they dont rub on the tire?ill post pics in a little while
 
I notice the ones I got had a heatshrink section in the middle for some sort of attachment. I wanted to keep them away from the shocks, so I got a coupla long-but-loose spring at the hardware store, and zip-tied away:

IMG_1247.JPG


(driver's side)

IMG_1248.JPG


(passenger side)

The top is ziptied to a hole in the bottom of the inner fender. The inners have been trimmed a bunch to allow the shock through, but you could do the same on stock metal too.

The spring is, I donno, maybe 4" long and will easily pull to double that, so it just keeps the line out of harm's way until there's flex.

-- A
 
this is what i did.and i tied it lose so it doesn't bind.the spring idea is a pretty good one ill get two at the hardware store. and try it if this doesn't work.

CAM00138.jpg

CAM00139.jpg
 
Ah yeah. Here's my "old" setup, using zipties and the hardware that came with the lines, which was a metal wire holder with a rubber grommet and a plastic base that the ziptie fed through.

tankie-lifted-3.jpg


I think zipties might come a very close second to duct tape as The Handyman's Secret Weapon! :haha:

-- A
 
You can twist a coil before you install the line so you don't have to do this.. But great ideas
 
My solution to this problem is to install a center drop like the rear diff has and run lines out to each caliper along the diff.

Works great! Don't need as long of a brake line either.
 

I was going to go this route, but doesn't it really reduce the effective length of the hose? If the hose was at its limit (going in a straight line from upper attachment to the banjo fitting under droop) it would be pretty far away from that clamp. With the clamp in place, the hose would have to angle over to the shock and then down. This all depends on how your shocks are mounted, but for those of us with them slanted back slightly I think it's the case.
 
I was going to go this route, but doesn't it really reduce the effective length of the hose? If the hose was at its limit (going in a straight line from upper attachment to the banjo fitting under droop) it would be pretty far away from that clamp. With the clamp in place, the hose would have to angle over to the shock and then down. This all depends on how your shocks are mounted, but for those of us with them slanted back slightly I think it's the case.

Yeah, YMMV for sure. This was when I had Rancho front springs which flex like a 2x4. At the very least, though, you could rotate the clamp around to the front of the shock.

See above for the spring-retention idea which I'm using now.

-- A
 

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