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Got my homemade 1" wheel spacers on!

JeffsJeep04

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Well, I finally got a chance to get 'em made. I'll put down all the info I gathered together in case anyone can use it.

Not nearly as booty fab as you are probably thinking. Little background, I've done a bit of everything over the last few years, but finally decided to go back to school and finish my machine tool degree. I'll be graduating in March and needed another project to do. I asked my instructor if I could engineer up and put together a set of wheel spacers. He seemed pretty impressed with the idea, so I dove in. Drew them up in mastercam and made a fixture for them. I got some scrap 6061 from work that was 12"x12"x1" thick. It was the end pieces of a bar that they just keep around for building fixtures and similar. I put that in the vice and ran the first side. Drilled all 12 holes (7/16 for the holes to be bolted to the axle, 15/32 for the stud holes), then I counterbored and used a ball end mill to make the 60° lug nut seat. After that, I drilled a hole in the middle and used a 1" indexable end mill to pocket out the center bore. Once I had that blanked out, I had a nice machined surface to index off of, so I put my fixture in the vice (has 4 of the 6 bolt holes tapped into it) and bolted the spacers down flipped over. Counterbored the back side of the stud hole and milled out the outside. Cycle time from load to finished spacer was around an hour each. I could drastically reduce that by having some round stock to start with...or something closer. Going from a 12" square to just under 7.25 round is a LOT of chips.

15/32 is .4688 and the factory blazer rear studs have a .472 knurl. I should have drilled the holes at 29/64 (.4531), but live and learn. A few of the studs I got were a little undersize on the knurl and I didn't feel very comfortable, so I did some researching. Turns out that the studs for a 69 camaro and a pretty good range of corvettes (80 was as new as they went) is identical to the rear blazer lugs but has a .475 knurl. I went and swapped them out and pressed 'em in. Nice and tight!

The stance is still just a touch narrower in the rear, but I wanted that to retain some of the turning radius advantages. It has a MUCH better stance now. It still looks like it's low in the rear, but not nearly as bad as it used to. I know you guys are picture whores, but unfortunately it's snowing to beat heck outside right now and my camera is 1000 miles away at the moment, nice and warm in Georgia with my wife. I tried with the camera phone, but you can't see crap, so I'll just have to post more up later.
 
Sounds good. While I am a machinist, i'm only an automotive machinist BUT I would have started with boring the center hole then indicating it to zero then making every other dimension/measurement from there so that YOU KNOW it is 100% true to center.
 
All holes (other then the lug stud counterbore, which was just for clearance for the lug stud head) were done in one setup. When I flipped the part to set it up on the fixture to do the outside and counterbores, I used a coax indicator to reset G54 X & Y to the dead center of the bored center hole. They turned out awesome, I had a bunch of guys that weren't there when I made them very unconvinced that they weren't store bought. I'll grab some pictures when I pull the rims off to re-check torque, I'm sure those lug seats will compress just a little bit.

Couldn't recall offhand, what's the torque value for the K5's? I torqued everything to 110 first time around.

As far as analysis of material, I didn't do anything, but it's high grade 6061 (we make medical and aerospace parts at work, it's good stuff!). According to the article on here, most are made of 6063, which is much weaker stuff.
 
So how thick is the material under the nut? Do you have to swap to shorter wheel studs to fit everything within just 1"?
 
Nice, grab some pics even if it's snowing! I wish it was snowing here...

I have a buddy that owns a machine shop, and earlier this year I had him make some 1.5" wheel spacers for the rear 14b FF in my K2500 suburban.
Could have bought some online for a lot less, but all I could find were made out of aluminum.

I'm sure aluminum would have been fine, but something just didn't sit right about putting aluminum spacers on a 8000lb rig that occasionally pulls 10-12k trailers and has 800ft lbs of torque.

I am considering buying some 1.5" aluminum spacers for the rear of my K5 though. Good job on making some custom parts.
 
So how thick is the material under the nut? Do you have to swap to shorter wheel studs to fit everything within just 1"?

The stock studs with some open nuts worked out perfectly, they sat comfortably below the outside surface of the wheel spacer. The factory aluminum rims have a pocket on the back side of the wheel, opposite the lug, probably .125 deep or so. I didn't need it, but it does give you some more wiggle room. I'd have to double check my drawing as to how much I left from the bottom of the lug taper to the back side of the spacer.


Nice, grab some pics even if it's snowing! I wish it was snowing here...

I have a buddy that owns a machine shop, and earlier this year I had him make some 1.5" wheel spacers for the rear 14b FF in my K2500 suburban.
Could have bought some online for a lot less, but all I could find were made out of aluminum.

I'm sure aluminum would have been fine, but something just didn't sit right about putting aluminum spacers on a 8000lb rig that occasionally pulls 10-12k trailers and has 800ft lbs of torque.

I am considering buying some 1.5" aluminum spacers for the rear of my K5 though. Good job on making some custom parts.

I look at it this way...there are some trucks out there riding on aluminum rims (albeit, forged most likely) carrying some SERIOUS weight. They aren't nearly as thick as my set up. Secondly, the aluminum is really just to locate the studs. The studs/nuts are carrying the weight, just like the factory setup. I don't foresee any issues with material strength.

My main concern right now is the material compressing a bit. I used a .250 ball end mill with a 3D toolpath to pocket out the lug taper, so it left a slightly raised line between cutting paths. Theoretically it should only be .001 or so, but it's still there. The lug and forces will mash that down, so I'm definitely going to re-torque them before I do any more driving. I've put about 25 miles on them so far. If they need much at all, I'll re-check them again in 50 or so miles, and keep going depending on how it's holding up. No different really then the standard procedure for new aluminum rims.

I went through the trouble of building up the fixture incase I ever wanted to build them down the road (WAY down the road...gonna be a while before I can afford my own CNC), but in that case I'd definitely get a 60° spot drill to do the lug seats. I'd also do them out of 1.25" material, just to get them out a hair further. Lastly, they went on pretty tight. The factory wheel has a larger hole in it for the stud to pass through. I used a 7/16 drill, but it was a pretty tight fit. I guess that's what prototypes are for :thumb:
 
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