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got some questions (maybe dumb)

stevo_baino

stevo_baino

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i'm building a blazer and it's gonna be my DD but on wekends i'll be wheeling it, nothing too serious (mud, logs, rocks, snow/ice) but enough that i'll be needing something better than my limited slip. so it has to behave on the streets and at the same time be a monster off road. i have 10b axles (i know they're weak but a 14 is overkill) and i'm looking for a locker-preferrably selectable-that's smooth on pavement. on road performance is equally as important as offroad here. any suggestions? stories? products to avoid? price estimates? really appreciate any advice.

also, i've heard that the only way to lift the front is to get lift springs. i've also heard that lift springs have a harsh on road ride because they're more arched. like i said, on road is just as important to me. so i was thinking: what if i used longer shackles and put some kind of spacer in between the frame and the spring hangers in the front? anyone done this? then in theory i could get my 3-4" of lift with stock springs and it won't mess up any geometry cuz i lift both ends of the springs equally. don't be afraid to tell me if that's the stupidest thing you've ever heard...
 
stevo_baino said:
i'm building a blazer and it's gonna be my DD but on wekends i'll be wheeling it, nothing too serious (mud, logs, rocks, snow/ice) but enough that i'll be needing something better than my limited slip. so it has to behave on the streets and at the same time be a monster off road. i have 10b axles (i know they're weak but a 14 is overkill) and i'm looking for a locker-preferrably selectable-that's smooth on pavement. on road performance is equally as important as offroad here. any suggestions? stories? products to avoid? price estimates? really appreciate any advice.

also, i've heard that the only way to lift the front is to get lift springs. i've also heard that lift springs have a harsh on road ride because they're more arched. like i said, on road is just as important to me. so i was thinking: what if i used longer shackles and put some kind of spacer in between the frame and the spring hangers in the front? anyone done this? then in theory i could get my 3-4" of lift with stock springs and it won't mess up any geometry cuz i lift both ends of the springs equally. don't be afraid to tell me if that's the stupidest thing you've ever heard...
Click to expand...

If you want a tough axle and a smooth locker, find a stock 14bff with a gov loc.
It's the smoothest auto locker I ever had, it can easily take up to 35-36" tires.
If you are set on the 10 bolt, the gov loc on those could not do good with anything bigger than a 31-32" tire.
As for the springs and your idea of lift, you are not the first to think of doing this, some have done really scary and stupid spring hangers and some did a great job, just keep in mind that the further from the frame you are, the more leverage on that hanger so you better secure it well.
I had a stock blazer with stock auburn limited slip in the rear and 31" tires, I drove it every day and then went wheeling with it and had a blast for a few years, I also took it hunting and chased Hares with it, it was unbreakable.
If you can keep everything moderate and you have modest desires, you can do fine with a stock or nearly stock blazer.
 
I find the gov-loc next to useless, or in my case completely useless, as I have yet to get it to lock at all. Your axle selection is really dependent on the tire size you want to run. Giving us your choice for tires would really narrow down the suggestions. A 14bsf would be the middle ground between your 10b and a 14bff, if your wondering what other options there are, and it's available in 6-lug so that you could keep your front end the way it is. My last point will be that stock front springs suck ass anyway, and a set of lift springs will likely ride better, not worse, than the stockers. Mine is much better with 4" lift springs on it.:D
 
throttleissues said:
I find the gov-loc next to useless, or in my case completely useless, as I have yet to get it to lock at all. Your axle selection is really dependent on the tire size you want to run. Giving us your choice for tires would really narrow down the suggestions. A 14bsf would be the middle ground between your 10b and a 14bff, if your wondering what other options there are, and it's available in 6-lug so that you could keep your front end the way it is. My last point will be that stock front springs suck ass anyway, and a set of lift springs will likely ride better, not worse, than the stockers. Mine is much better with 4" lift springs on it.:D
Click to expand...

Either your unit is bad or you don't feel it lock.
I had one in my crew cab and the first time I knew I had one was when I was trying to pull someone out of a mud pit and I was was spinning 2 tires, I didn't feel it lock, that is because it will lock at low speed usually under 15 mph
I looked at my glove box and there it was G80.
After that I tried it again and again, it always locked seamlessly.
It was in a 14bff though so As I said I only recommend the 14bff G80 and only up to 35-36" tires, I saw some breakem with 40" tires
 
imiceman44 said:
Either your unit is bad or you don't feel it lock.
I had one in my crew cab and the first time I knew I had one was when I was trying to pull someone out of a mud pit and I was was spinning 2 tires, I didn't feel it lock, that is because it will lock at low speed usually under 15 mph
I looked at my glove box and there it was G80.
After that I tried it again and again, it always locked seamlessly.
It was in a 14bff though so As I said I only recommend the 14bff G80 and only up to 35-36" tires, I saw some breakem with 40" tires
Click to expand...
I figured it's just bad, and it's a 14bff. I've spun one tire only at more than 15mph on the rear and no lockup. Maybe it works occasionally without me noticing, but it hasn't worked when I was paying attention to it. Doesn't matter any more, as I'm getting an open carrier so a mini-spool will fit. Don't start about welding the spiders, I don't want to hear about it. The Doc won't let me weld since the pacemaker, so I'd have to take it to somebody else. That made the mini- an easier method for me.:doah:
We now return you to Stevo's thread.:D
 
I ran 35's on my Rig with 10blts frnt and rear for a long time no issues. So you should be good, But the 14blt Rear is a great set up. Nothing wrongs with leaf springs up front either. I have 6" spring lift and I love it.
 
A friend of mine has an Ected on his F-150 and loves it. IDK anybody running an e-locker though. The Ected is a really tight limited slip when it's not locked.
 
define tight.... sorry, i've only been driving for like 2 months. and how tough is the ected? do you have to be gentle with it or could i roast my tires if i wanted to?
 
stevo_baino said:
define tight.... sorry, i've only been driving for like 2 months. and how tough is the ected? do you have to be gentle with it or could i roast my tires if i wanted to?
Click to expand...
Tigh meaning he gets some tire chirp around corners with the locker off, but gets more chirp with it on. It seems to be loosening up a little with use. It's tougher than a stock carrier. It would definitely not be the weak link in a 10b axle, so I would probably put better axle shafts in at the same time.
One thing I wanted to say about a 14bff with 33-35" tires is that you will lose a few precious inches of ground clearance. I would tend to put that on a back burner until you decide to go to 37" tires or larger. A lot of guys just wait until they break a 10b, but some carry axle shafts and break them over and over.:dunno: It's up to you and how hard you plan to beat on the truck.
 
a friend of mine runs ecteds front and rear on his jeep and loves em. has had them for 2 years and no problems. they do have tire size limits for warranty purposes - max 35's for the 10 Bolt
 
There are many lifts out there that ride good. Tuff Country makes a great lift kit for K5s That will probably give you a better ride than stock. Everybody here likes them.
Many members use TC springs on the front and a shackle flip in the back and have a great ride.
I would not extend your shackles or put blocks under the front. Its dangerous and will screw up handling on the street. I also dont recommend using blocks on the back. Do a shackle flip and use your stock springs. Or get new springs in the height you want them.

For a locker The Powertrax as mentioned in above post is a excellent locker for a 10 bolt. I have ran them in front and back. They are an inexpensive, tough locker that works great offroad. Plus has good street manners. Easy bolt in install without needing to set up the gear lash ect you would have to do with a locker that replaces the Carrier
You can go with a selectable locker like an e-locker but they cost $$$. I just have a hard time putting a lot of money in a ten bolt. But if you have cash to burn elockers are nice.
I have a Blazer that is set up pretty much like you are looking for. 4" lift, 33" tires, 10 bolts, I run a Powertrax in the front and a Detroit in the back.
It is my DD, Tow rig, But will go most anywhere offroad I want it to.... And some places I dont.:D
 
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thanks everyone i think that's everything i need to know. really appreciate the input. watch for my build thread, i'll probably start it in the spring or summer
 
Another thing to think about. You mentioned ice in your first post. Lockers and ice don't really go well together. If you need to DD this truck on icy roads you probably will want a selectable locker or a gov-lock, not a Detroit.
 
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