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got the D60 in - pics added

AKbigsub

1/2 ton status
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I finished installing the D60 today. Here is an explanation of the swap:

I started with an unlocked stock D60 with 4.10's. I stripped it down (not including the gears) and replaced the wheel bearings and seals, turned the rotors, installed rebuilt calipers with new pads, rebuilt the king pins, replaced the right tie rod end, and installed the steering arm on the right side for the crossover. I did all this in the comfort of my garage:grin3: . All parts which were retained were sent to my son's shop and cleaned in one of those fancy dishwasher-style parts washers. Boy did the hubs need that! New o-rings were installed on the manual hubs. Oh yah, I replaced the axle u-joints with Spicer non-greaseable joints.

Meanwhile, I purchased a 2wd gearbox. In the driveway, I removed the corp. 10 bolt, steering gear, and front spring shackles and bushngs (the ones in the frame). When attempting to install the new steering gear, I screwed up some of the threads and had to go buy a tap. After cleaning up the threads, I installed the new box along with a steering box brace from Offroad Design. I installed greasable spring bushings, also from ORD. During this process, I checked the other spring bolts and found one finger tight. I removed the bolt and inspected it, finding it to be fine. It was re-installed using Locktite Red.

Time to slide the D60 in there:drool: . Using two jacks, I positioned it under the springs and bolted them in. It sounds easier then it was. Good thing I'm in good shape and can bench press an elephant:rolleyes: .

When I got ready to bolt up the right side, I discovered that the studs that came in the u-bolt kit were too long :wall: . Back to Fasteners for shorter studs. After that, it bolted right up.

The next problem was discovered when bolting up the front u-joint. It seems that someone had replaced the pinion yoke with one for a larger u-joint. Normally this is a good thing. However, I don't have a driveshaft with the larger u-joint. So, I picked up a new yoke only to find out that I don't have a socket to fit the nut:wall: . I found a 1 5/16 socket at Pricebusters. And it had already been clearanced to fit (10 bucks) :grin: . I changed the yoke and bolted up the d-shaft.

Greased everything and bled the brakes. I filled the p/s pump with fluid and stared the engine. The pump aerated the fluid and made a big mess. It took a while, but the pump quieted down and the steering turns smooth.

I double checked all the bolts and nuts and mounted the tires. Took it off the jack stands and took it for a drive. The steering feels VERY nice! It is nice and tight and has no pump steer (duh). Tested out the 4wd - it sounds good. I flexed it on a snow bank and what do you know, the steering wheel did not turn as the suspension flexed:grin: . Now I have to clean up the driveway and garage floor:i2:

I have only three concerns and/or questions: 1) since the brake lines bolt to the top of the D60 calipers instead of the side like on the 10 bolt, the rubber is a little to short. I will have to have new extended lines built, but for now I will take the clip off at the frame so there is some slack. 2) the brake pedal is a little soft. I am going to have the brakes power-bled and go from there (the M/C is only three months old). Will I need a one-ton M/C? 3) when bolting the shocks to the axle, the mounts were wider than the 10 bolt. Is there a spacer that is normally on a D60 that I need to find and buy?

Thank you to everyone here who answered my questions along the way!

And thanks for indulging me on this long read. I can't wait to get out and wheel!
 
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I'm going to be doing the same swap as soon as my driveway dries up. Regarding the brake issues, there is some information about swapping in a 3/4 ton booster. I'm not great at using the tools on a computer, but you can search the threads. Hope this helps.!
 
I'm going to be doing the same swap as soon as my driveway dries up. Regarding the brake issues, there is some information about swapping in a 3/4 ton booster. I'm not great at using the tools on a computer, but you can search the threads. Hope this helps.!

My burb is a 3/4 ton and thus already has a 3/4 ton booster. I am wondering if the bigger bore calipers need a different M/C?
 
Started with this:
IMG_0736.JPG

Ended up with this:
IMG_0852.JPG

If you ever start thinking that your tires really aren't that big, just put one next to somethng for scale:laugh:
IMG_0838.JPG

Ready for the D60:D
IMG_0842.JPG

Using two jacks and a little effort, I slid it in.
IMG_0854.JPG

IMG_0736.JPG

IMG_0852.JPG

IMG_0838.JPG

IMG_0842.JPG

IMG_0854.JPG
 
i think so

Looks like your upper ubolt plates need to be turned 90 degrees.

the bends in the plate should be front and back, not sure if it will hurt anything or not having them sideways.

who's steering arm did you use? some1 said sky, is this correct?

I'm about to do the same thing, any pointers? or special tools needed, other than the prong socket? I'm a d60 n00b and have never rebuilt king pins, they seem a little intimidating to me as I've never worked on anything bigger than 3/4 ton. how long did it take you to rebuild the axle? again any pointers or anything i need to know to make it go any smoother?
 
why didnt you just get a conversion u-joint???

That is a good question. I decided to change the yoke so that when the u-joint went bad I could just replace it with another $16.00 joint instead of the conversion joint which I was told was much more expensive. Someday when I upgrade the front driveshaft, I will already have the larger yoke and will re-install it.

Looks like your upper ubolt plates need to be turned 90 degrees.
If I rotate the plates, the u-bolt holes do not match up to the u-bolts.

the bends in the plate should be front and back, not sure if it will hurt anything or not having them sideways.

who's steering arm did you use? some1 said sky, is this correct?

I'm about to do the same thing, any pointers? or special tools needed, other than the prong socket? I'm a d60 n00b and have never rebuilt king pins, they seem a little intimidating to me as I've never worked on anything bigger than 3/4 ton. how long did it take you to rebuild the axle? again any pointers or anything i need to know to make it go any smoother?
I don't know what you mean by the bends in the plate. These plates are totally flat 1/2 inch plate.

I bought the steering arm from a local vender. He said it was from Sky.

The only pointer I have is to not be in a hurry (I took three weeks from start to finish). Work was done in the evenings after work and school. I made multiple trips to various parts stores due to a lack of planning on my part coupled with never having worked on a D60. This would have really sucked if it was my daily driver.
 
ooo...ok

If I rotate the plates, the u-bolt holes do not match up to the u-bolts.

I don't know what you mean by the bends in the plate. These plates are totally flat 1/2 inch plate.

ok...the next to last pic looks like the plate bends up:crazy::blush: like these:

DSC00487.jpg


did you make the plates or buy them? these are ruff stuff that i got for my 14bff rear, i want to replace my front plates and ubolts also.
 
ok...the next to last pic looks like the plate bends up:crazy::blush: like these:

DSC00487.jpg


did you make the plates or buy them? these are ruff stuff that i got for my 14bff rear, i want to replace my front plates and ubolts also.

I got the plates from Speedo. Thanks Gus!
 
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