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Got the new front bumper done

Blazr77400

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 31, 2001
Posts
652
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Location
Ogden, UTAH
I decided to redo it since I plan on doing an Exo-cage.
I used 1-3/4, .120 walll DOM. About 30ft of it.
2x2 square tube with two 3/4" bolts and two 5/8" bolts hold it on.
The clevis hooks are 3/4".
This is the first project with my tubing bender.
I also widened my hummer wheels 3".

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is just me or does it look like the bumper corner is touching the tire in the second picture?.
 
looks can be decieving.

very sweet man! why did u change bumpers? old one looked sweet too!
 
I just can't get enough of that truck, pure secksy!! :pimp: :bow:

Be sure to post up the exo progress. :wink1:
 
after looking at your pics of an awesome truck. it looks like there's just a square metal tube that just holds the ram and isn't connected to the front-end. is that the case? and if so, are there any problems when the suspension flexes?
 
Citizen Rider said:
What is the square tube going from the axle to the bumper for?

I'll bet you it's an anti-wrap bar for the front end.

Mog axles + Leaf Springs = Lotsa Wrap


:usaflag:
 
Here is little bit better picture of the front end.
The square tube is an anti-wrap bar. I used Square tubing because thats what I had at the time. I plan on changing it up a little bit, but for now it does its job. No wrap and it still travels pretty good.

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Janitorjim8 said:
Awesome! and incredible truck :bow::bow:. What did you do with the old bumper?
Sold it to my brother to pay for some of the tube, he was to lazy to build one for his blazer.
 
since the differentials are centered, how does that work with the offset of the t-case?
 
nvrenuf said:
Front and rear steer or just front?
The rear axle is a steering axle, but its locked out for now. I am just waiting for someone to donate the steering, and donate a winch, but nobody has yet:rolleyes:

The differentials are offset 3 inches so the rear drive shaft is just a standard 1350 u joint. The front is a totally different story. Its a H.A.D. dual 1350 cv. It has a cv on the pinon and the transfercase. The main reason I did that was to get rid of the vibration so I could drive it on the street. If I never drove it on the street I could of just used a regular U-joint on the pinion. There is plenty of clearance with the oil pan and trans pan, but the 203 and adapter are way close, like an 1/8". I actually had to grind some of the adapter and the 203, and then cut half of the drivers side t-case mount bushing off(make sense?)

The clevis mounts are just 1" 1018 that I waterjetted out.
 
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