Gov-loc crapped out Question

[MudFrog]

Ok... So what exactly is the gov-loc doing when everyone says it has crapped out on them? I know most of ya'll say it works fine with 33" tires but I'm looking to go up to 35-36" tires. Does the gov-loc hinder performance with this size tire? Or does it just not perform like it would with a 31" tire?

89 K5 Silverado
http://mudfrog.coloradok5.com

 

[Emmettology 101]

I ran one for about 3-4 years with 35's and never had a problem.

Mike

See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com

 

[tRustyK5]

My Gov-lock in my old S-10 Blazer worked fine until one rear tire came off the ground, then all the power went to the one with no traction. Sure seemed like an open diff to me, and I did pull the cover to confirm that it was a gov-lock. A couple of months later a C-clip dropped out ana I lost the axle, tire, drum, etc while doing about 20 MPH. That was some fun!

I also had a lowered 88 GMC shortbox with a Gov-lock. Obviously I didn't wheel it, but if I got on it on dry pavement it would start with both tires spining like its supposed to and then the gov-lock would dis-engage and I'd be down to one wheel peal. Some locker!

I like gov-locks like Ken likes 700R4's!

For much the same reasons, 'cept I never went through 6 of them, 2 was enough!

Rene

 

[6.2Blazer]

I'm not sure exactly what you are asking....but here's my view on it.

The gov-loks have a reputation for failing when used hard, especially the 10-bolt models, but I'm sure there are lot's of people who have never had a problem with them. The gov-lok in my '90 with 32" tires literally exploded, but this happened after the vehicle was stolen and obviouly abused. I have also seen a friends '86 3/4 ton pickup do the same (s.f. 14 bolt rear) but it pulled large trailers all the time.

Performance wise, I think they are pretty much typical of a original equipment limited slip.....they can be overcome fairly easy (meaning only 1 tire will spin) as soon as the traction difference between the two back tires changes. Again, the gov-lok in my '90 was not capable of spinning both back tires unless you were on level ground and both tires were on the same surface. I now run a Detroit Tru-Trac limited slip and there is a huge difference in performance.

I don't think you will notice any performance difference with the gov-lok when going to bigger tires, but the bigger tires do put more stress on the differential and can increase the likelyhood of it failing

 

[MudFrog]

Hey Ya'll,
My question pretty much got answered. I was wondering what ya'll meant by crapping out. I wasn't sure if it just stopped working and only one tire got power or if the thing blow up and left everyone stranded on the trail or what not. I was just trying to see if I need to prepare for the loss of an axle. When I do finally lift the thing I won't have my 10 bolts on for too long (or at least I hope). Thanks for the help!!

89 K5 Silverado
http://mudfrog.coloradok5.com

 

[Mudzer]

The way mine let me know is with a loud whine sound after pulling a wheelie over a rock ledge (really, see my site under the Axlebreaker trail report).

The spider gears and locking mechanism broke and spit out the rear pan. I have a Gov Lok with some working parts you can have if you pay me shipping.

Mudzer 1978/91 K5
<font color=blue>www.mudzer.coloradoK5.com</font color=blue>

 

[ken]

I don't care what size tire, what HP or how hard ya wheel, save your money and buy a Detroit Locker and be done with it!!! Anything less is just that, LESS!!!

ken

 

[MudFrog]

Ken,
I'm aware the gov-loc aint worth anything but it came with my blazer so I don't have a choice about a differen't locker at the moment.

89 K5 Silverado
http://mudfrog.coloradok5.com

 

[rocko]

Hmmm.. very interesting reading. I am trying to determine what to do with my truck.. Seeing that I don't have the dough to buy 12/14 bolt front/rear's .. I'll hold onto my 10 bolts. What's the best way to build one up? I have two spare front/rear here.. I was thinking of building them up since parts are plentiful.
What is the best "traction device" to put in the rear since I do alot of highway driving and occasional off-roading.
I know for sure my rear is crap.. I can hammer the gas in mud, sand, dirt.. and only one tire spins. Can't have that now..
Any advice is greatly appreciated.


(updated) http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com

 

[6.2Blazer]

Well, if you don't have the dough to buy a 12 or 14 bolt...........
You can greatly increase the strength of the 10-bolt with aftermarket parts but it will cost some money. First, get rid of the stock differential (carrier) and replace it with a good aftermarket posi or locker (Detroit Locker, etc..) which will increase the strength in that area. I chose a Detroit Tru-Trac and have been really happy with it's performance on and off the road.
Since you are installing a new posi anyway, get the 30-spline version (if the truck is older than about an '87 or '88 you probably have the 28 spline version) and the corresponding 30-spline axleshafts from a place like Moser.
Now finally, just add some good aftermarket gears in the ratio of your choice.
I've done some serious wheeling with a 10-bolt set up the above mentioned way, with both 33" tires and now 35" tires, for about 2 years with no problems..........though I am planning an upgrade in anticipation for even larger tires and harder use.
However, it will cost you........$300-500 for the posi or locker, $200 for gears and bearings, $300 for axleshafts, plus $150-250 for labor. I've always been a fan of the 10-bolt for various reasons, but if you want one to stand up to moderate use you have to pay for it.

 

[1990K5]

you are going to spend more $ building your 10bolt than you would goin to a yard and snagging a 12bolt, you can pick one up for $50-75