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Mine doesn't seem to work at all.
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Run it down the highway for an extended trip, in order to get the gear oil up to temp. (houseing should be warm to the touch).
Take notice of any binding, poping or clunk sound, after taking your
first turn after the high-way trip. (indicateing sticking clutch plates)
Run consecutive "figure eights" in a church or school parking lot, with minimal throttle input. The object is work the gear oil through the diff-case and internals.
Block the front wheels, raise the rear-end and support it with jack-stands. Place the transmission in Neutral.
Drain the fluid, while inspecting for any excsesive metal contamination.
Remove the bum cover and inspect.
Rotate the case until the internals can be seen.
Completly clean the case and internals with a "brake-parts-cleaner". Insure any varnish build up is removed from the actuator, fly-weights (center bar thingy) and clutch pack (located on the right).
Check the fly-weights for freedom of movement, you should be able to move them with your finger.
Continue cleaning, as you rotate
a axle shaft with enough speed to extend the fly-weights and activate the locker.
(It may be necessary to remove the wheels/drums inorder to rotate the axle shafts with enough speed to activate the "locker" portion of the case.)
You should notice, the locker will progressivly enage quicker and with less effort, as the varnish is removed the internal components.
Reassemble and fill the diff.
DO NOT use any suplemental "friction modifiers" or "Limited Slip addatives" - straight gear oil is all that is needed.
Pictured
here on-end (the top in the photo is the pasanger side)
The clutch pack can be seen located towerds the top (The gov lock is a Limited-slip/Locker NOT A open/Locker)
Fly weights are on the right-of center, and the actuator is to the right of that.
11.5", 9.5", and 8.5" cases are open-air, like whats pictured.
10.5" (14FF) are enclosed, makeing a simple cleaning - a bit more difficult.
