Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…

[Jon52]

This thread is for the general discussion of the Item Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…. Please add to the discussion here.

I have a 1978 Cheyenne with the 400 in it. She is old, worn out with sagging suspension, cracked wiring, some rust, and in need of being made into a daily driver. No trailer queen here, Betty just needs to be beautiful again and fully functional in a nice Hawaiin Blue and white paint scheme.

She was running and driving a few weeks ago. Had her idling in the drive and I saw a dump of water gush down on the ground. That was her giving up the ghost.

I am looking for guidance on a few must haves:

Rebuild with mild cam upgrade

New suspension (unless springs are intended to look like an upside down U)

All aluminum radiator

Electric fan

EFI

All new body mounts, gaskets, seals etc (time has ravaged the originals)

New gauge cluster

Lights, trim, badging and a winch

Drop down side steps (short wife )

This won’t be a frame off deal, just making her solid, safe, and fun again.

Transmission rebuild? Just take it to a shop?

Transfer case rebuild. Someone said it’s just a chain in there and something one can do themselves?

Considering paint options such as regular paint vs tintable liner. I do live in the country and want to use her not put her on a pedestal and just stare.

I have some shade tree mechanical skill. I have no clue on engine rebuilding, but have a neighbor who is a mechanic for the county and knows how and offered to hold my hand through the process.

What I would like to learn:

Easiest and most complete wire harness option.

Most complete and dependable suspension with 4” lift wheels and tires that hold up to FL wet salty rains and ground water. I live in the swamp 20 miles from the coast and all our water here is brackish.

Also, I thought I pulled all the bolts to remove the radiator support wall but obviously I missed something. How do I pull that thing. Bolts along top along bottom from front side in headlight bucket area??? Still in there solid.

Anyone in Seminole County area with a club or opportunity to attend a meet and learn?

Under coating. I was planning on POR15 after a good cleanup with wire brush and surface clean with degreaser. Is there anything better?

I do have a welder and I am not afraid to use it… but I am a bit more of a grinder than a good welder. lol

In advance, thank you for any guidance and tolerance as I learn. I will search prior posts but wanted to see if I could compile info in a single post that may make it easier to find and understand.

PS
On engine build. What do I need to do to address any known issues to fix during the process.












Are these mirrors and fender flares original?

 

[pomai]

Beautiful truck Bra!
You've come to the right place, these guys here know there stuff and will guide you in the right direction!

 

[Jon52]

Thanks for the response. Funny enough Grandma and Grandpa met in the Navy and were there for Pearl Harbor. Grandma (Betty) traveled the 48 states with Grandpa in the Blazer back in the day. She picked out the Hawaiin blue color because she like blue and here family, my family, was from Hawaii. But I have never visited. Maybe one day.

Peace!

 

[imiceman44]

Thanks for the response. Funny enough Grandma and Grandpa met in the Navy and were there for Pearl Harbor. Grandma (Betty) traveled the 48 states with Grandpa in the Blazer back in the day. She picked out the Hawaiin blue color because she like blue and here family, my family, was from Hawaii. But I have never visited. Maybe one day.

Peace!

More will post up with their specialty experience but a quick comment on the suspension, while I am sure you can benefit from new springs the front is an upside down arch stock.
The heavy duty 3 leaf springs for the 3/4 and 1 ton were flat.
They are very stiff though so if you are not lifting it I would get a replacement stock spring

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Nice truck, great ideas but ill poke the bear, if you want a reliable EFI and a nice cam go LS (ducks from the haters). Front springs are de arched from the factree . Talk to @folkenheath for all your engine and other upgrades ( best support and customer service ever I buy all my speed parts from him) he might even have ideas for a wiring harness and EFI options for your SBC. Did you remove the radiator supports at the bottom in the frame?

I would defiantly turn this in to a build thread, maybe a mod can move it for you.

 

[folkenheath]

That's an awesome rig to have! Looks solid too!

I have a 1978 Cheyenne with the 400 in it. She is old, worn out with sagging suspension, cracked wiring, some rust, and in need of being made into a daily driver. No trailer queen here, Betty just needs to be beautiful again and fully functional in a nice Hawaiin Blue and white paint scheme.

She was running and driving a few weeks ago. Had her idling in the drive and I saw a dump of water gush down on the ground. That was her giving up the ghost.

I am looking for guidance on a few must haves:

Rebuild with mild cam upgrade

I can help you pick out rebuild parts and get them on the way if you want. We have a lot of questions to asnwer first. 400 SBC are great old engines.

New suspension (unless springs are intended to look like an upside down U)

I see you are looking for a 4" lift at the same time, I would get the springs and shocks from ORD.

All aluminum radiator

How big you want? We have several options. large to huge.

Electric fan

These can be had in a few different sizes to match the fans, I recommend genuine SPAL, I can get them as well.

EFI

I sell a lot of EFI. I would have a lot of questions before I make a recommendation. I stock Holley and Edelbrock EFI, I can get others.

All new body mounts, gaskets, seals etc (time has ravaged the originals)

If you want poly body mounts I can get you some. If you want stock rubber I can get brothers trucks, or you can get them from LMC.

New gauge cluster

Stock or electronic? I can get Dakota Digital.

Lights, trim, badging and a winch

Brothers trucks or LMC.

Drop down side steps (short wife )

The moving type of the fixed type?

This won’t be a frame off deal, just making her solid, safe, and fun again.

Transmission rebuild? Just take it to a shop?

What trans is it?

Transfer case rebuild. Someone said it’s just a chain in there and something one can do themselves?

What transfer case is it?

Considering paint options such as regular paint vs tintable liner. I do live in the country and want to use her not put her on a pedestal and just stare.

I have some shade tree mechanical skill. I have no clue on engine rebuilding, but have a neighbor who is a mechanic for the county and knows how and offered to hold my hand through the process.

What I would like to learn:

Easiest and most complete wire harness option.

For the whole vehicle? I sell both Painless and American Auto Wire. The AAW is a little more complete but costs a little more.

Also, I thought I pulled all the bolts to remove the radiator support wall but obviously I missed something. How do I pull that thing. Bolts along top along bottom from front side in headlight bucket area??? Still in there solid.

Did you take the body mount bolts out from the frame? All bolts to fenders?

Anyone in Seminole County area with a club or opportunity to attend a meet and learn?

Under coating. I was planning on POR15 after a good cleanup with wire brush and surface clean with degreaser. Is there anything better?

I do have a welder and I am not afraid to use it… but I am a bit more of a grinder than a good welder. lol

In advance, thank you for any guidance and tolerance as I learn. I will search prior posts but wanted to see if I could compile info in a single post that may make it easier to find and understand.

PS
On engine build. What do I need to do to address any known issues to fix during the process.

If you want I can post a form here for the engine rebuild. Once you answer those questions we can select some parts. You thinking new pistons and over bore, or rering type job? It may depend on what you find when you pull the heads off.

 

[Jon52]

I have a 1978 Cheyenne with the 400 in it. She is old, worn out with sagging suspension, cracked wiring, some rust, and in need of being made into a daily driver. No trailer queen here, Betty just needs to be beautiful again and fully functional in a nice Hawaiin Blue and white paint scheme.

She was running and driving a few weeks ago. Had her idling in the drive and I saw a dump of water gush down on the ground. That was her giving up the ghost.

I am looking for guidance on a few must haves:

Rebuild with mild cam upgrade

New suspension (unless springs are intended to look like an upside down U)

All aluminum radiator

Electric fan

EFI

All new body mounts, gaskets, seals etc (time has ravaged the originals)

New gauge cluster

Lights, trim, badging and a winch

Drop down side steps (short wife )

This won’t be a frame off deal, just making her solid, safe, and fun again.

Transmission rebuild? Just take it to a shop?

Transfer case rebuild. Someone said it’s just a chain in there and something one can do themselves?

Considering paint options such as regular paint vs tintable liner. I do live in the country and want to use her not put her on a pedestal and just stare.

I have some shade tree mechanical skill. I have no clue on engine rebuilding, but have a neighbor who is a mechanic for the county and knows how and offered to hold my hand through the process.

What I would like to learn:

Easiest and most complete wire harness option.

Most complete and dependable suspension with 4” lift wheels and tires that hold up to FL wet salty rains and ground water. I live in the swamp 20 miles from the coast and all our water here is brackish.

Also, I thought I pulled all the bolts to remove the radiator support wall but obviously I missed something. How do I pull that thing. Bolts along top along bottom from front side in headlight bucket area??? Still in there solid.

Anyone in Seminole County area with a club or opportunity to attend a meet and learn?

Under coating. I was planning on POR15 after a good cleanup with wire brush and surface clean with degreaser. Is there anything better?

I do have a welder and I am not afraid to use it… but I am a bit more of a grinder than a good welder. lol

In advance, thank you for any guidance and tolerance as I learn. I will search prior posts but wanted to see if I could compile info in a single post that may make it easier to find and understand.

PS
On engine build. What do I need to do to address any known issues to fix during the process.

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[Jon52]

Nice truck, great ideas but ill poke the bear, if you want a reliable EFI and a nice cam go LS (ducks from the haters). Front springs are de arched from the factree . Talk to @folkenheath for all your engine and other upgrades ( best support and customer service ever I buy all my speed parts from him) he might even have ideas for a wiring harness and EFI options for your SBC. Did you remove the radiator supports at the bottom in the frame?

I would defiantly turn this in to a build thread, maybe a mod can move it for you.

Bolts to the frame. We have a winner. TY

 

[Jon52]

Nice truck, great ideas but ill poke the bear, if you want a reliable EFI and a nice cam go LS (ducks from the haters). Front springs are de arched from the factree . Talk to @folkenheath for all your engine and other upgrades ( best support and customer service ever I buy all my speed parts from him) he might even have ideas for a wiring harness and EFI options for your SBC. Did you remove the radiator supports at the bottom in the frame?

I would defiantly turn this in to a build thread, maybe a mod can move it for you.

Oh. Okay. Moderator can you help with that? Sorry, I did it wrong. Makes more sense though.

(yes I can; moved to build forum but not as a build, As @AJMBLAZER said, it is not a true build thread.)
@Jon52 start a build thread in that forum and we can merge the threads

 

[Jon52]

Responses added.

That's an awesome rig to have! Looks solid too!


I can help you pick out rebuild parts and get them on the way if you want. We have a lot of questions to asnwer first. 400 SBC are great old engines.



I see you are looking for a 4" lift at the same time, I would get the springs and shocks from ORD.

Skyjacker kit is what my son said to get cause has lift, and all shocks, steering damper and all straight bolts on.

How big you want? We have several options. large to huge.

This has oil cooler, radiator, and trans cooler. I prefer not to have heat issues, which it currently did. So all aluminum no bonded plastics and direct bolt preferred. Bigger the better depending on price. I just don’t want to be unhappy or get it wrong. But doesn’t have to be biggest since daily driver though we are in FL.

These can be had in a few different sizes to match the fans, I recommend genuine SPAL, I can get them as well.



I sell a lot of EFI. I would have a lot of questions before I make a recommendation. I stock Holley and Edelbrock EFI, I can get others.

I have heard good about Sniper series but I do like Edlebrock products.

If you want poly body mounts I can get you some. If you want stock rubber I can get brothers trucks, or you can get them from LMC.

I am thinking rubber for quieter smoother ride. Well that is my perception anyway.

Stock or electronic? I can get Dakota Digital.

Electronic LED or LCD is what I was thinking but want to fit original location with little mods to do.

Brothers trucks or LMC.



The moving type of the fixed type?

Moving would be cool if direct bolt setup. What was on it installed easy but caused rust by collecting a lot of mud.

What trans is it?

How do I tell?

What transfer case is it?
No clue. Will my VIN tell me?


For the whole vehicle? I sell both Painless and American Auto Wire. The AAW is a little more complete but costs a little more.
I helped put in painless one time and we had to keep adding stuff and it was a real pain to be honest. I was hoping for easy all inclusive solution. May be worth a lil extra get it right first time.


Did you take the body mount bolts out from the frame? All bolts to fenders?



If you want I can post a form here for the engine rebuild. Once you answer those questions we can select some parts. You thinking new pistons and over bore, or rering type job? It may depend on what you find when you pull the heads off.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Oh. Okay. Moderator can you help with that? Sorry, I did it wrong. Makes more sense though.

No need to apologize, I did it also lol, sky Jacker is good. but if you really want smooth suspension ORD springs are the way to go. ORD is straight bolt on also. @AJMBLAZER can you help him out?

 

[Jon52]

All this and no build sheet.

 

[folkenheath]

Skyjacker kit is what my son said to get cause has lift, and all shocks, steering damper and all straight bolts on.

I agree with @Cucv_M1008 on that.

This has oil cooler, radiator, and trans cooler. I prefer not to have heat issues, which it currently did. So all aluminum no bonded plastics and direct bolt preferred. Bigger the better depending on price. I just don’t want to be unhappy or get it wrong. But doesn’t have to be biggest since daily driver though we are in FL.

If you put a BBC size core in it, you can fit dual 14" fans. If you put a diesel size core in it, you can fit dual 16" fans.

I have sold Northern, BeCool, Cold Case, etc. They range in price and size.

I normally recommend seperate oil and trans coolers, especially in a warm climate.

I have heard good about Sniper series but I do like Edlebrock products.

I don't usually recommend any EFI that has the ECU in the throttle body.

If you want inexpensive the least expensive one I recommend is FAST EZ-EFI.

Next up would be Holley Terminator X Stealth

After that cost wise you are up to Edelbrock PF4 or Terminator X MPFI.

After that is Holley HP or Dominator, which you likely don't need.

I am thinking rubber for quieter smoother ride. Well that is my perception anyway.

The poly is tougher and lasts longer and is more chemical resistant. The rubber is softer.

I use the poly myself unless I go solid for a cage.

 

[HankScorpio]

Nothing short of a coil over conversion rides well on a squarebody. I ran Skyjacker soft ride springs for a long time. They were rough but better than some. I have some other lifted squares, they all ride like a dump truck. I recently put custom ORD springs (Alcan) on my K5. They are still a rough leaf spring. If you want them to work right off road and carry the weight of the vehicle, the ride is always going to be a bit rough. I was hoping the ORD springs would be a compromise of being affordable without going to a custom coil over suspension. Truth is they are still a leaf spring and there are limitations to what can be expected. I am running Bilstein 7100 remote reservoir shocks. ORD (Alcan) are the best leaf springs available and they work very well off road. Its going to cost you double what a Skyjacker kit will.

I am running Edelbrock ProFlo4 with the Volcano installed from @folkenheath on a 454. I am using Dakota Digital gauges and a Kindle installed where the radio was for the ProFlo4 display. It works well. I use dual Derale electric fans on an amazon 4 core aluminum radiator and it stays cool. The Amazon fans don't move enough air, you need a real fan. (I think the Derale fans are Spals) The ProFlo4 is very easy to install and the Dakota Digital is also pretty easy. Keeping the charging system working properly was the hardest part. Mines a 1990 so your charging system should be easier. The EFI system replaces half the wire harness so its pretty basic after that, especially if you replace the gauges. You will need high pressure fuel for EFI, I used a 1990 tank and sending unit with the in tank pump swapped to a GM EP 381. Your fuel lines are different from having a carb and will need to be changed.

Consider a LS 5.3 swap. You are doing all the work anyway and it will make more power for less money.

Dont use a bedliner product on the exterior of that truck. It will look cool when you get it back from the shop. It will look worse and worse every year after until you realize that you ruined your truck. All bedliner products fade and chalk out. They cant be removed without a nightmare of scraping and fire. A lot of the time it actually makes rust issues worse. Just don't do it, buy real paint. DIY paint is fine, just use real automotive paint.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I can move it to the Build Thread forum but I don’t think I can actually make it a build thread.

If you go over to that forum and make a thread, tag me and I or another mod can combine this thread into the new build thread.

BTW the fender flares are most likely aftermarket and the mirrors look original. Closer pictures would help.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Please don't bedliner anything, it can and will rust out underneath the liner and you will never know until it is too late

 

[sweetk30]

Love me a nice 400sbc . . But if going efi and looking for more power i would skip old school and go gm LS motor . 5.3 stock in truck from 99-05ish or more was 295hp . And around 18mpg . You wont come close to reliability/ fuel mileage and upgrade potential of a LS .

BASIC cam and headers with tune on a LS will get you 2x the power over old school and only drop around 2mpg .

If staying old school go edelbrock proflo 4 hands down for daily driver . American autowire kit is great and HUGE full color instructions and around 95% all pre terminated and factory quality plugs . And comes with aftermarket guage pig tail conversion to keep from hacking up new wiring .

Off the shelf leafs i would do tuff country . Go 3" lift as closer to flat better ride . Then if you want the 4" total go zero rate to make up the inch .

Off the shelf kits anymore SUCK . We here and ORD have good parts lists for mix-n-match best ride and use .

Welcome and good luck . Ask a lot . . Read a lot . . Dont waste money on wrong stuff just cause you see it advertised EVERYWHERE.

 

[Chickntrk]

Please don't bedliner anything, it can and will rust out underneath the liner and you will never know until it is too late

Agree, and no POR15 it’s almost as bad and overpriced for what it is, clean it up, rusteolum paint, and then fluid film or wool wax once the paint is dry.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I’ve seen good luck with good bedliner and stuff like POR15 but it had to be done so that it encapsulates the area and rust is converted/removed.

Don’t do this and it will just spread out or rust out under the painted/bedlinered part.

Also, use good bedliner that isn’t just paint with lumps. Something of the consistency of Rhino Liner or Line-X. If it’s spraying out of a can it’s not going to last.

 

[CriticalAction]

I would echo a lot of whats already been said here. ORD to source either custom or off the shelf springs. I currently have tough country 2" springs but going custom ORD rear. Shackle flip worked good for the time i had it.

Have no other experience with throttle body fuel injection besides the Holley Sniper. I had to tinker with it a lot and it still never ran quite right.

You can get quotes on rebuilds to get some good comparisons but take a hard look at an LS swap with 4l60e or 80e. Seen guys spend the same or more money rebuilding all the old school only to end up with a carbed, non electronic transmission, with full time transfer case.

For your other bits I personally think LMC quality has really dropped off as of late. I avoid ordering from them unless they are the only game for what I want. Brothers trucks is a good one I have ordered more from lately.

I have had good luck with Raptor liner but as stated by othera you have to make the underlying material rust free/prepped well. I also have only ever covered essentially from the trim line down for rock/salt protection. Don't be one of those guys that bed liner the whole vehicle.

I live in ND and have to deal with road salt. Only surefire way to keep it from rusting is not driving in the winter. But laborious coats of undercoating and a car wash often can slow it a bit...