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Greasable bushings worth it?

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Ned Kelly

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Just ordering some 4" BDS springs, and wondering if I should go with grease-able bushings?
Do they make that much of a difference?
I read that sometimes the bushings can crack due to grease channels cut into them?...and I also read that it was just a bad batch of grease-able bushings a few years ago that had this issue.
What does the collective say?
 
I had em. Broke off all the grease zerks in about 4 months. So I'm not a fan.
 
been running them for years .

all my truck builds for my self get them . and my buddys truck i did for him got them .

biggest thing i do is final prep each center tube by chamfering the hole and removing any burr from the inside . when you pass the bolt threw it can plug off the hole if a burr is still on the inside.

and just hand snug with mabye a tad bit tight or you can crush the tube and pinch off the hole .

oh ya and ........ BDS springs :coolblue: for best ride off the shelf brand.
 
Best thing to do is pump and rotate, pump and rotate. Only way they are worth it. I dont know how much grease they really allow into the bushing, but Im just happy to get bolts out.
 
I broke a nipple off one too. It's because you need to use the small needle guns. Which do suck. But the bushings themselves are awesome with the bolts. Since they are locking nuts they don't need a major amount of torque. I found it best to still be able to rotate the bolt itself. Allows easy rotation to add grease and ensures that the shackle and spring isn't pinched. Limiting travel and making a rougher ride. I also use antisieze instead of grease. Doesn't wash out. Never rusts up. Win win.
 
K85 Octane said:
thing to do is pump and rotate, pump and rotate.
Click to expand...

Yah Brent pump and rotate yahhhh.

454Sub said:
I broke a nipple off one too. It's because you need to use the small needle guns. .
Click to expand...

I actually switched to those. Didn't help.

Course I replace my bolts every couple years cause the size becomes " weld a cheap crescent wrench on it"
 
I appreciate the replies. Still not 100% sure which way I'll go on the bushings, but good to know about the option.
Since there isn't a lot of BDS reviews, I'll make sure to post up how I find them.
 
I just use poly bushings with regular bolts now.

My first lift was a full 4" kit from ORD and came with the greasable bolts and I think I popped all of the zerks off with a regular grease gun... bought a needle but it was too big for the zerk hole.

I think regular poly bushings and some new grade 8 hardware is way better than the clapped out rubber ones lol.
 
When that zerk breaks off, are you using the needle fitting to grease the poly bushing channels individually?
 
Ned Kelly said:
When that zerk breaks off, are you using the needle fitting to grease the poly bushing channels individually?
Click to expand...

Mine didn't break off. The greasable bolts I had came from ORD and the zerk was a press in style, not threaded.

If you put too much grease in the bolt it pushed the zerk out kinda like removing a clutch pilot pushing out of a crank with grease.

It specifically says use a needle on a grease gun but who does that... I tried to use a needle at a later date and it was a pain in the ass, plus I think my needle was too large which most likely contributed to the suck.

I believe the ones that DIY4X sells have threaded zerks, I'm pretty sure he buys Grade 8 bolts and drills the holes in the bolt then taps the head of the bolt where the zerk goes. This style would probably be way better.
 
I still say regular bolt for the win. Solid un-modified bolt vs. a modified semi-hollow bolt that may have probably saw some heat when being drilled out.
 
Zerks aren't made to be strong being hollow and soft material. Any side load applied especially pulling off a tight fitting grease fitting is when the usually break.

Pushing out a press in fitting while greasing is way to much pressure to lube the bolt, clogged and not enough interference fit zerk to bolt.

A flush type zerk/needle fitting would be a better setup and won't break off.

For what it's worth it's overkill unless your heavy into muddying.

The original factory setup lasted how long?

If you like greasable then get them, there not that much more $
 
On the internet, I sometimes come across the idea of leaving spring bushing bolt loose "to improve flex". This is a surefire way to oval out the shackle holes and also put wear in the spring eye bolts. With proper torque, the sleeve is tied rigidly to the shackle or spring mount. Rotation happens between the sleeve and bushing. The hole(s) in the sleeve is the whole point of the greaseable bolt/bushing.

That being said, a greaseable bolt does not stop rusting inside. I'm sure it works out OK in Arizona, but in the rust belt, you still rust the sleeve to the bolt, it just takes longer. When you pump grease into the zerk, it finds some path from the bolt hole to the outside world. It does not fill all paths from the bolt to the outside world, so all those other places can still get moisture or whatever inside. After taking the sawzall to a couple sets of greaseable bolts I stopped wasting money on them. If you never see salt, pre-grease everything and pump the zerks every trip out they will probably work fine. But for the rest of real world use....
 
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