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Greasing 10 bolt upper ball joints

dyeager535

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OK, I got the front end back together. Put the Zerk fitting on the balljoint before assembly, and once together, realized the fitting end was right between the yokes on the axleshaft joint.

I read past posts, but there has to be a better way. No Moog side greasing joints here, and pulling the axleshaft seems overly complicated for greasing the joint.

The ball joints came with a 45* fitting, and I could hardly get it off with the axleshaft in place. No way I'm getting a grease gun on it.

I see "right angle" grease gun couplers, anyone ever tried one?

http://www.annco.com/products/pro_2.cfm?sku=THE418

Still not sure I could get a fitting on there and make that fit, but who knows.

I'm almost resigned to taking apart the front end to lube it. It's not like it has to be done super often if you don't use the vehicle much, or under rough conditions. Besides, it should come back apart pretty easily. Sigh...
 
I was able to unscrew the grease fitting from the axle and install a right angle one on it. I then had to grease it and replace it with the standard one. I then promised myself I'd get the moogs next time.
 
I'll have to get back in there, but with the 45* not fitting, I'm not sure even a 90* would fit. Even if it did, I don't think the grease gun coupler will fit.

I'm going to have to get under there again and really look at it. Those joints with the axleshaft in place just don't leave any space, the yokes are too close to the joint, even with the wheel turned.
 
Install a plug in the hole then buy yourself a grease needle and go through the boot to add grease. :deal:

This is how you grease the non greasable joints of many foreign cars.
 
How do you get grease into the bottom of the joint?

The new joints don't have a "positive" clamped seal (like factory) that would allow you to force fluid into the joint via pressure. Pumping fluid through the rubber boot would simply have it leak out the top or bottom of the seal.

Heck, on these, I could simply force the grease gun nozzle under the boot. But still wouldn't have anything but the factory applied grease in the joint itself, which appears to be solely to keep them from rusting.
 
I was able to get it greased with either a 90 or 45, but I used a flexible grease nozzle to get it in there. It was really tough to find the right angle but I was able to do it, but I'd never want do it again since it took hours.
 
Now that I've had it all apart, getting down to the spindle to move the axleshaft isn't going to be a big deal.

I wonder if Moog's piece is patented...anything greasable in that location SHOULD be accessible, no idea why no one else has copied that idea.
 
Don't worry about it... on 10b's you just grease them every time you have it torn apart replacing blown parts. :)
Honestly I was debating the same thing when I rebuilt my front end and I decided to pump them full of grease, install and not worry about it since I seem to have the axle shafts out often enough to grease them then.
 
Yep, pulled mine back apart tonight. Waiting to get my grease gun back, then I'll throw it back together again. Took the opportunity to take shots of the tear down, figure it might be interesting or helpful to some. Also took pics of the setup with the zerk fitting installed, may post those once I get them uploaded.

It looks like MAYBE a 90* would work, but it would still need to be a bunch shorter than the 45* that came with the joint. You are able to pull the axleshaft out far enough to get to the zerk fitting without pulling it past the seal, which is nice.

Anyone got a clue what the interval is for greasing the ball joints, if mileage isn't a factor?
 
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