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Grrr Body mount bolt

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I am putting my body lift on today and the nut for the bolt right behind/under the drivers door broke loose. How do I get this sucker out?? Take a hole saw to the top side??
frown.gif
 
Unfortinatly, that is your best bet. If you know how to weld than all you have to do is after you put the new bolt on, take that piece you drilled out and weld it back in place.

86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
OK, and on the very back two bolts, do I need to drop the tank to get to the nuts?? 83 model.
 
You may have to. It just depends if you can squeeze something in betwen there or not.

86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
I found 2 holes that the hitch was covering up. I think those are for the nuts. Now I gotta drop the hitch
frown.gif
. ( And I thought I was gonna knock the body and suspension lift out today).
 
Ain't that the way it always goes? At least we have a long weekend!!

1984 K-5
4" lift
35x12.5 MTs
buildin a 400 for it, any info greatly appreciated
 
On my 82 we had to remove the hitch to get at the bolts in the rear . but did not have to remove the tank. My front bolts did the same as yours and i cut holes to get to them and welded everything back up when done.

A BIG HAMMER CAN FIX ANYTHING..
smile.gif
 
Progress report: Back two nuts are on so tight that I bent a 1/2" extension trying to get em loose. Had to resort to grinding the heads off from top.
shocked.gif
 
NO, KEITH!!! I am gleaming because I finished mine yesterday. I started at 10 a.m. and finished at 7 p.m. Let me tell you the greatest help (aside from a buddy of mine) was the use of a breaker bar. The only bolts that gave me a little bit of resistance were the last ones (the number 5 position). They came off easily with the breaker bar but had welded themselves just a bit with rust. Just a few hard taps with a hammer and punch. If you have any questions, just ask. I lowered my tank because I did not have to use a couple of OEM washers in that position. I have to say I felt very lucky to not have to struggle. I didn't even have the infamous "I wish I had paid somebody to do this" feeling and I consider that great success. Let me know if I can help. I also recommend you have a friend give you a hand. Oh! and I still need to get the tranny linkage welded. By the way, does anyone know if I can custom-make my own?

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
By the way, I you ARE replacing your body mounts, right? I got the kit from ORD and they have excellent instructions.

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
<font color=purple> I have to do the same to mine ! I have to cut out a spot and weld it back in ............ poly kits are real easy to do and good for it .

L8r,
. Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>

<font color=purple> BOW CHICKA BOW WOW !
 
Day two:
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finally grinded head off back bolt. Still won't drop down, prob stuck in bushing somehow. Found a 2" hole saw to go after the floor with. Last bolt. whew....this turned out to be a job!!!! Putting new poly body mounts in, old ones had seen their better days quite a few years ago. I'll try to post pics, later.
 
The bolt won't just drop after the head is ground off because its a carriage bolt with a 'square' part under the bolt head to prevent spinning whe its tightened. I used a small drift and drove it through the bushing...
smile.gif

I dropped my tank after I got those bolts out...live and learn I guess.
laugh.gif

If you use a punch to get the bolts out use some vise grips or pliers to hold the puch while you hammer, it'll keep you from hitting your hand once in a while.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
 

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