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GT280 chassis connector

SpeedlabDan

Keepin it trashy never classy
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Hey guys hope this is an easy one. Trying to figure out why I don’t have power to the saddle tank switch on “ugly Betty” I found instructions for what seems to be a fuel system retrofit with the parts totes.
Wondering if this may have been started and left unfinished or if this even has to do with this 91 K3500.
I’m running a carb atm so seriously considering wiring my own fuel relay and nix’n the tank switch all together.
Reall just need to be able to move this truck so I can bring it in the shop and start bleeding brakes etc

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I would have thought it would come with a factory tank selector switch. I suppose it's possible the truck came factory with a single tank and someone added a second tank after the fact.

On a 79 K10 I owned the stereo shop didn't plug the connector to the tank selector switch properly and that caused it not to work. The back of the switch has 6 terminals in 2 columns of 3. They just plugged in 1 of the columns with half the plug hanging off doing nothing. So the 1 tank operated but you couldn't switch tanks.
 
I would have thought it would come with a factory tank selector switch. I suppose it's possible the truck came factory with a single tank and someone added a second tank after the fact.

On a 79 K10 I owned the stereo shop didn't plug the connector to the tank selector switch properly and that caused it not to work. The back of the switch has 6 terminals in 2 columns of 3. They just plugged in 1 of the columns with half the plug hanging off doing nothing. So the 1 tank operated but you couldn't switch tanks.
Yea the truck is a factory saddle tank truck so the switch is still in the dash Currently I’m running it with a 12v to the pump terminal at the back of the switch. The truck was also tbi so there’s a lot of other wiring under the hood that’s unnecessary I’m sure.
 
Unfortunately I've never found an easier way to do it. Adding another tank means instead of one wire/connection, you now have three, both for the sender and the pump.

I think without emissions GM could have done it with one pump and no switch.
 
I'm no help on your dual tank situation but those instructions you found are for updating the fuel pump pigtail on late 90s/early 00s gm pickups when changing the fuel pump.
 
I'm no help on your dual tank situation but those instructions you found are for updating the fuel pump pigtail on late 90s/early 00s gm pickups when changing the fuel pump.
I was thinking that’s what it was built I couldn’t find any other info on the instructions
 
Honestly at this point I think it’s going to be easier to separate the power wire from the driver tank and signal a separate relay from the ignition. It will still be passive and from what I can tell the fuel guage still works through the factory switch.
I’m not to concerned with keeping the factory wiring as this is all temporary until the diesel is swapped in
 

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