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Guess it is motor time....

What to build??????

  • Total voters
    13
RingMaster4x4

RingMaster4x4

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Well I guess I toasted the old 427 TD this weekend having some good old mud fun. At least I have it on video. I was driving in the stock tank and running about 3K good oil PSI and Temp. Then it just blogged out. I know it had some bad ring (blowing white smoke under load) but had 70 PSI Oil. Any way we pulled the plugs no water in the motor and we can't turn the motor over.

So I guess the question is what to rebuild the motor in to? Stroker? 525 or so sounds good. Or just bore it to clean up and put good pistons with my 718 heads I have?
 
I like the idea of keeping it reliable and continuious duty type of build.
Sup to you? Did you like the power you had or have you allways wished you had more? Sure, clean up and rebuild will prolly be a bit more power but not by a whole bunch....??
So More power needed = stroke it or 454 it!
Same power with a refreashed attitude = clean and rebuild.
.02c
Burt
 
Yeah I was happy with the power the motor lasted well (had some miles on it when I got it) I have a 454 but there are other plans for it. There has always been that I want big displacement voice in my head.
 
You sure were giving her hell! Motor sounded real good. Wild that you can't really hear any sounds that make you think the motor blew. Were you able to hear anything odd when it died? Can you turn the motor over by hand or is it actually locked up?

So, what would the extra costs be to stroke this TD motor rather than just rebuild it? If it wouldn't be too much more, I'd vote that you stroke it! :eek1:
 
I did not hear anything. the starter will just bearly turn it a little. No I can not trun it by hand even with the sparkplugs out.

So far looks like a stock type rebuild kit will cost me 750+tax. One of the stroker kits I am looing at it is about 2k with forged pistons. or I can get a standerd deck block kit for summit with forged pistons for 750 + shipping.
 
Well, if you were happy with the power before I would probably just lean towards rebuilding what you have. Hard to justify stroking it for an additional $1,250 if your already happy. But, if you've got money to burn on the project - stroke it! :bow:
 
RingMaster4x4 said:
I did not hear anything. the starter will just bearly turn it a little. No I can not trun it by hand even with the sparkplugs out.

So far looks like a stock type rebuild kit will cost me 750+tax. One of the stroker kits I am looing at it is about 2k with forged pistons. or I can get a standerd deck block kit for summit with forged pistons for 750 + shipping.
Click to expand...


Unless you have good friends willing to do all the block machining for free, you need to prepare yourself to spend a lot more for the rebuild than just the cost of a rebuild kit.

I was amazed at what it cost to properly prepare my 496 and 502 blocks for my "simple engine rebuilds".... it ended up being several hundred dollars for each one.

The whole experience reminded me a lot of the "I can buy a D60 for $300" threads... I haven't added up all the receipts on those motor builds but each one ended up being several thousand dollars.

I guess my suggestion is to carefully understand what that block is going to need for machine work once you get it torn down and can see how badly it's hurt. You might be dollars ahead to just buy a new shortblock fully assembled and swap over your accessories, heads and induction system. :thinking:


:usaflag:
 
I figured there was going to be machine work. but I have not looked in to the cost that is next. The shop that I have been using for my LS motor rebuild has been doing good work at good prices so far.

What all did your blocks need? I am hopping that all my motor needs is crank turned and cylinder 30 over.
 
It depends how carefully you want to put it together...
You can do a simple bore, or you can have the block "squared" to ensure that all parallel surfaces are truly parallel and true to each other. They can use torqueplates to simulate the way the heads will be bolted down (which will distort the block)....the torqueplates ensure that the bores will be round when the engine is bolted together, not just when the machining is done.

The other area I got surprised was on the crank (502 build) one of the journals was substantially different size-wise to the others...still within factory spec, but at the extreme end. I had that journal machined down to match the others, but then had to have the crank nitrided to give it the same surface hardness that it had before machining ($345.00).

Stuff like that adds up. If the crank is ruined or needs a lot of machine work, sometimes it's easier to buy a new one instead. That's how I ended up going from a 454 to a 496. The stock crank needed so much work, a stroker was only slightly more money.

All tolled, the 502 got built for around $5100, and the 496 got built for around $5600. That doesn't even include fuel injection or aluminum heads...

I'm not trying to be a downer, just sharing my own experiences with what was supposed to be a "low cost" rebuild, and turned into a pretty costly build-up. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done things differently.


:usaflag:
 
RingMaster4x4 said:
You are not downing me at all. I really appreciate your info. Thanks for your time and I will hope for the best.
Click to expand...

Here's a link to the original build thread on that 496.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202575


There are quite a few specifics in there and cautions about where costs can slowly creep up on you. Now that I re-read it, I realize that I lost some money due to a poor choice in parts vendor (had to re-buy some items, and had to pay for balancing TWICE)....even the new crank needed some work to be right.

Anyway, it's worth a read.

:waytogo:
 
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