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h1 12 lugs and byas ply

LOKI3006

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Ok i need to get a lil info, I have a set of 36 inch byas ply 16.5 inch hummer tires. now ive came upon a set of 12 bolt h1 wheels with mag inserts. I know usualy the 12 bolts are for radials but i would like to know if i can put the byas plys on the 12 bolts?
 
i mean, if youre worried, ive got a set of 8 bolt H1 rims that were meant for the bias ply tires.... id be happy to trade rims with you :D:rolleyes::wink1:
 
not 100% sure, but i think i heard somewhare that you can run bias tires on the radial (12 bolt) wheels but not radial tires on the bias (8 bolt) wheels?

any body care to confirm/deny this?
 
the issue is two fold from my understanding.

1. air pressure. the 8 bolt rims are only rated to 30psi, and many people with radials run higher pressure than that on the highway. apparently the rim cant take it, and the bolts will fail. making it a safty hazard.

2. the runflats/beadlocks. the radial tires have a thicker bead, so if you attempt to use a bias bly runflat the thickness of the tire bead keeps the rim from fully seating when you bolt it together. you can trim down the beadlock to make it work, commonly they use a section of PVC pipe for offroad applications.

i do know people run radials on the 8 bolt rims without issue, and in fact, its what ill be doing as well.
 
Is there something about the hummer radials that requires higher pressure than standard street radials? I can't remember ever getting over 30psi in my 31", 33" or 35" radials and it seems like even less pressure would be required in the 37's.

So assuming you'll end up with PVC inserts anyway, the only "real" drawback to the 8-bolt rims is that they can't easily be recentered?
 
i think they also have a slightly lower load rating, not that it matters, our rigs arent nearly heavy enough to approach the limits.

as to tire pressure, i run my 33's at 40-45psi on the highway. and many guys with duallys and such will tell you they run 65-85psi in their tires. it would be an easy mistake for someone to overair the 8 bolt rims.

as to recentering...... you could do like me, use the H1's as an excuse to run 1 ton DRW axles front and rear :) or just run spacers. IMHO non-recentered H1 beadlocks on a Blazer are friggin sexy as all getout.
 
we just started running the 12 bolt ones when i was in the army.i believe it was a runflat issue and the rim would leak air when running the radials on the 8 bolt rim as already stated.we always just aired them up to 35 psi on the 8 or 12 lug.i was never told not to run any less than that.if they are rated for 30 psi max,i was never told that.never had problems with them at that psi.ran em like that for 5 yrs when i was in.probably only need 25 to 30 pounds in them anyway to get good contact pattern and wear correctly.otherwise it is crowned on a lighter rig like a blazer and will wear the center of the tire quicker.
 
I just recentered a set of 8 bolts. Took probably 1hr each and that includes cutting the old center out on my lathe after I welded the new center in. It is easy as pie if you use an aftermarket center.

The wheels say 30psi max right on them.
 
Should be picking up my 8 bolts from the sandblaster tomorrow. Can you tell me what you think the best way in setting the new centers in is. Not sure if guys are making a jig or just seting them all the way in and leveling it off
 
I know plenty of people who run radials on the 8-bolts without issue. Not sure if it is the 100% correct way to do it but it works.

I heard a funny story long ago that one reason for the switch was that young soldiers who didnt know much about anything were having problems changing a tire on HMMMV's. They would read the manual which told them to loosen the 8 bolts to remove the tire/rim. Apparently too many soldiers read "8 bolts" and started loosening the 8 bolts holding the rim together rather than the lug nuts. I am sure you guys can figure out what would happen if you tried that while the tire was at full psi.
 
I know plenty of people who run radials on the 8-bolts without issue. Not sure if it is the 100% correct way to do it but it works.

I heard a funny story long ago that one reason for the switch was that young soldiers who didnt know much about anything were having problems changing a tire on HMMMV's. They would read the manual which told them to loosen the 8 bolts to remove the tire/rim. Apparently too many soldiers read "8 bolts" and started loosening the 8 bolts holding the rim together rather than the lug nuts. I am sure you guys can figure out what would happen if you tried that while the tire was at full psi.
would not be a pretty site im sure.i kinda like having my body intact and not having half a rim sticking thru it at some point.
 
Can you tell me what you think the best way in setting the new centers in is. Not sure if guys are making a jig or just seting them all the way in and leveling it off

The way my buddy was told to do his, was to make four equal length spacers, leave the old center in, bolt the new center to the old center with the spacers in between the two, and then weld the new center in place. I am pretty sure that is how he did his.

Martin
 
The way my buddy was told to do his, was to make four equal length spacers, leave the old center in, bolt the new center to the old center with the spacers in between the two, and then weld the new center in place. I am pretty sure that is how he did his.

Martin

That was how I was told to do it, but it wasn't quite accurate enough. I used spacers like that and then spotted the centers and trued them with a sliding square until I had all the spokes spotted. Then I welded them solid.
 
Thanks for the replys and sorry for the hijack. Hope to get them next week and will let everyone know how they came out.
 
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